Welding my nuts

[skov]

I'm about to weld the seat harness nuts to the CP18s.
The nuts I have are BZP - should I grind the zinc coating off before I weld them?
Should these nuts be fully welded all the way round, or just tacked in a few places?

Thanks,

[deezee]

You want to clean off all coatings on steel before welding, as a general rule. It would be best to fully weld it as its no extra effort, but a massive disaster if the IVA man decides it needs to be fully welded once your car is complete.

Edit: Thinking about it, just a couple of tacks on the lower ones should be sufficient as its just to make fitting easier. The upper ones need fully welding

[misty]

I welded all the nuts complete just to make sure they dont turn it down it really pays to go the extra mile to make sure

[skov]

I guess it probably is worth fully welding them just to be sure.
I was just a bit worried about the threads distorting if I did.

[tkpm]

when i weld nuts on i put a bolt through the nut, which keeps the thread nice a clean from weld splatter.

Terry

[Tilly819]

yes and yes

tilly

[Davey]

Never mind Mr IVA's feelings, do you want the seatbelts/harnesses to restrain if/when you get it badly wrong? If you answer yes to this then the only answer is fully welded nuts surely?

D.

[dogwood]

As already suggested, defo put bolts in before welding,
And yes fully welded

[deezee]

Never mind Mr IVA's feelings, do you want the seatbelts/harnesses to restrain if/when you get it badly wrong? If you answer yes to this then the only answer is fully welded nuts surely?

D.

Surely having a captive nut or not, does not give the bolt any more strength in a collision? The captive nut is simply because trying to do a nut up behind the transmission tunnel is next to impossible. Besides welding the nut must introduce some unwanted heat that could affect the thread strength?

[flyerncle]

I think you could safely bet money that you could lift a full car on the seat belt mounts if welded sufficently well,1/2 in weld will allegedly hold a half a ton in weight and I folded my brackets to give more area and welded both sides.

The nut is there to secure the bolt in the hole and there should also be ferrules so the seat belt can move when the bolt is tight and dont forget it's through a 3mm steel plate,my humble opinion, its going nowhere if fabricated with care and attention.

[baz-r]

your right guys about worrying about spatter i got some on my nuts once it was not funny and there was an odd smell of burning pork i was not laughing at the time :rolleyes:

[flyerncle]

You are so sharp you will cut your self Baz :)

[Bonzo]

your right guys about worrying about spatter i got some on my nuts once it was not funny and there was an odd smell of burning pork i was not funny at the time :rolleyes:

Must be older than you Baz .... The last time I had splatter on my nuts .... Smelt like Bacon to me :D :D

I usually hold the nut in place with a bolt, tack weld & allow to cool, then remove the bolt, spray with anti splatter & fully weld.

If you find that you need a tap to clean the thread out. they are cheap enough here ;)

7/16" UNF Tap (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390282758029)

[baz-r]

You are so sharp you will cut your self Baz :)

not realy welding sat down with my fly not fully closed is not what you call sharp :o

one time i was fiddling with some ht's on a running engine and give the old boys a zap at my jeans fly zip earthed on the bonnet catch made me jump a mile but i did find the dicky ht lead :D

[AshG]

you need to fully weld the nuts and make sure you weld the seatbelt brackets to the chassis on both sides. my iva inspector checked both, luckily i had pictures to prove i welded the brackets both sides as he couldn't see them

[flyerncle]

First job was apprentice welder in the early seventys and used to stick weld in shipyards and had large lump of slag go down the jumper and ended up on the undercarriage after chipping the weld,Not funny.

[baz-r]

pork or bacon? pmsl :D

[les g]

I think you could safely bet money that you could lift a full car on the seat belt mounts if welded sufficently well,1/2 in weld will allegedly hold a half a ton in weight and I folded my brackets to give more area and welded both sides.

The nut is there to secure the bolt in the hole and there should also be ferrules so the seat belt can move when the bolt is tight and dont forget it's through a 3mm steel plate,my humble opinion, its going nowhere if fabricated with care and attention.

as Paul has said
i have seen with my own eyes
a 1"long 1/4" bead of weld lift one (1) ton
done carefully and correctly welding is silly strong
cheers les g

[fabbyglass]

Tis the steel around the weld that pops anyhooooooo:)

[skov]

Thanks for all the replies guys!

Did the brackets Friday night. Ground the zinc off the nuts then fully welded them to the plates.
I've just tacked the plates to the chassis for now, but I'll make sure I fully weld them both sides and take photos for Mr IVA man!

[flyerncle]

Just burnt flesh Baz,orrible.

Jumping around like some kind of loon.

[dogwood]

Just thought I would pop this in about welding
It belongs to am American buddy of mine
He had a scooter carrier for his RV.
It was "professionally" made, and cost 200bucks....:mad:

First rule of welding...Penertration.:eek:
Second rule..Don't forget rule ONE..:rolleyes:

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p212/muddypaws4x4/BrokenHitchCloseup.jpg