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brainbug007
18th July 2011, 03:25 AM
After trying to fit my engine and having some space issues with the manifold on my CVH CFi, I hoping to now get rid of the manifold and replace it with bike carbs. From what I've managed to read so far, a majority of people seem to be using some variation of zx6 carbs but are there any others worth considering which aren't too expensive? Also where have people sourced theirs from?

Some seem to come with tps and some without. I'm I read somewhere that tps is good when it comes to the megajolt. Can anyone explain what tps is as it seems to be alot more expensive? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ZX-636-ZX6R-03-04-Throttle-Bodies-Carb-TPS-/220764710154?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item33669a250a vs http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/j1-model-carbs-good-condition-ninja-zx6r-01-plate-/120750351273?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1c1d4823a9 ?

Also I think I've also read that I need a fuel pump from the same model bike as my carbs but is there anything else I need besides the carbs, pump, and a megajolt for this setup?

mark
18th July 2011, 09:28 AM
Is this roadster building lark starting to keep you awake at night! questions about carbs at 3.25am :D

Basically when running a megajolt it will run a preset ammount of ignition advance at certain rpm this is known as running in 2d mode

With a tps the (throttle position sensor) the megajolt will know how far open the throttle is and change the advance to suit the current throttle position/rpm, this is 3d mode

Definately worth using carbs with tps

You will also need an filter and base plate

MikeB
18th July 2011, 12:01 PM
Tps seems to be better than manifold pressure for megajolt.
Don't buy throttle bodies, they are not carbs they need a full fuel injection installation. I think lots of other carbs can be used.

brainbug007
21st July 2011, 05:19 PM
Lol I was up early before going on holiday :) so how can I tell if the carbs have tps as I'm guessing the link I posted above isn't actually carbs?

davedew
21st July 2011, 05:28 PM
If you open your second ebay link, and look at the second picture. The carbs are actually upside down in this picture. To the right hand side of the picture, on the end of the butterfly spindles you can see a little black item with white writing on it. This is the TPS sensor.

Most bikes from around 1998 onwards that still ran carbs will have a TPS sensor, but if buying from ebay and you are not certain just ask them the question.

Cheers

Dave

snapper
21st July 2011, 08:51 PM
I run bike carbs with MAP, map reads actual manifold pressure and is in my opinion more accurate than tps, both work with bike carbs, tps probably easier to fit

robo
22nd July 2011, 09:11 PM
Excuse my ignorance here but is the cvh engine being refered to here the same unit that used to be in the mk3 escorts?

Bob

mark
23rd July 2011, 12:04 PM
Excuse my ignorance here but is the cvh engine being refered to here the same unit that used to be in the mk3 escorts?

Bob

The escorts used 1.6 or 1.4cvh which are different from the 1.8 found in the sierras

davedew
23rd July 2011, 10:05 PM
If it is a 1.6 then mk 3 & 4 escort, mk 2 & 3 fiesta. Basically xr2, xr2i, xr3, xr3i models.
If 1.8 then sierra only.

brainbug007
24th July 2011, 08:17 AM
Yup its a 1.8 cvh from a sierra I've got, one of the later ones that came with an early form of fuel injection (CFi). The inlet manifold is massive and has stuff like exhaust gas recirculation which gets in the way of the chassis rails hence why I'm going down the bike carb & megajolt route to reduce space and hopefully get a bit more power out of it :) im guessing though you could do something similar with the smaller cvh's by using carbs from a smimilar bhp bike?

brainbug007
26th July 2011, 10:38 AM
Hi guys, can you have a look at these 3 links and let me know if you think they've got TPS? Am I right in thinking any 1998 ZX6R model G or later has TPS? Also is this about the right sort of price to be paying at £60ish?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-KAWASAKI-ZX6R-NINJA-CARBS-CARBURETTOR-/250854616056?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a6819abf8

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KAWASAKI-ZX6R-J-A1P-CARBS-CARBURETTORS-AND-CARB-HEATERS-/110717833113?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19c74c0f99

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZX6R-G1-98-carbs-carburettors-2027-/350330071316?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item51914ca914

deezee
26th July 2011, 12:32 PM
I paid £30 for my zx6r tps carbs and got trumpets and rubbers with them. £70 + postage is a total rip off!

brainbug007
26th July 2011, 12:40 PM
Did you get yours from ebay deezee? If not where from? :)

deezee
26th July 2011, 10:52 PM
Yup, got mine from Ebay. In fact I got 2 sets as they were so cheap. Have used one for spares when servicing the other. I also got the loom of the bike for 99p + postage so I had the correct plugs.

brainbug007
27th July 2011, 08:32 AM
That was lucky, I'm not finding anything on fleabay for under £60 that isn't badly damaged. Been trying to work out alternative models that had tps and struggling a bit there. From what I've worked out a suzuki bandit would be ok as it's also a horizontal fit but the honda cbr isn't as it's more vertical, and the yamaha ones cost a small fortune :(

deezee
27th July 2011, 09:46 AM
You just need to sit down with ebay and manually go through the listings each week. The ones I found were listed as carburetors, not carbs. So less people were bidding on them. I only ever got them from auctions, not Buy It Now. If you go through, you can get a complete engine for the same price as some people charge for a set of carbs!

ZX6R G1 complete engine (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/zx6r-G1-engine-/260819644981?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3cba0ff235)

brainbug007
27th July 2011, 10:20 AM
Just tried calling a few local bike breakers and lowest price I was quoted was £80 for the carbs and they then wanted another £20 for tps :O I'll just have to keep an eye out on ebay.. I'm guessing it's not possible or too expense to take a non-tps set of carbs and put a tps on it?

brainbug007
29th July 2011, 10:57 AM
Another quick question on this setup, when i put my exhaust system back on will I still need the lamda sensor as doesn't that normally connect directly into the orginal donor ecu?

deezee
29th July 2011, 11:20 AM
Your lambda is redundant if your not running fuel injection. So as your going onto carbs, you can fit a blank into the hole (normally M18 fine)

brainbug007
29th July 2011, 11:34 AM
So what does the wideband lamba option that you can get on megajolt do?

deezee
29th July 2011, 01:52 PM
A regular lambda on a production car is measuring a very narrow range, giving either a lean, ok or rich result (simplified) A wideband lambda can read a complete range and therefore allows you to help tune an engine.

baz-r
30th July 2011, 06:54 PM
A regular lambda on a production car is measuring a very narrow range, giving either a lean, ok or rich result (simplified) A wideband lambda can read a complete range and therefore allows you to help tune an engine.

the out put from a narrow band ranges from .2-.8v with a tight transition at a afr of 14.7 around .45v and the ecu is set up to make it flip flop from high to low at the transition point
good enough for basic mapping and running closed loop for cats

widebands need a seprate controler as thay operate at a totaly diffrent voltage range (some contolers can emulate a narrow band tricking ecus to run a diffrent afr) unless its linked to an ecu thats designed to use it that is

brainbug007
1st August 2011, 09:05 AM
What have you guys done about re-routing the coolant that normally goes in via the thermostat part of the donor manifold?

Ashtonr
1st August 2011, 10:01 AM
I made a housing which has the two sensors in it and bolts onto the exisiting thermostat housing

brainbug007
1st August 2011, 01:05 PM
I though the existing thermostat housing was located on the end of the orginal donor inlet manifold kind of on the front side near cylinder 1?

Ashtonr
1st August 2011, 01:08 PM
It is, I'm using bike carbs sohave modified the water outlet

brainbug007
1st August 2011, 02:06 PM
Ah I think I get you now, so you've used the thermostat & housing that was on the bike carbs rather than modifying the donor one to fit onto the bike carbs?

brainbug007
7th August 2011, 11:21 AM
I'm a bit lost with this now. I've got a set of zx6r carbs with tps, the wiring loom from the bike, and a fuel pump. I'm a bit stuck with how to make the manifold as my cvh head has the coolant coming out just behind the 4th cylinder in a sort of large square shaped hole. I'm guessing I need to make a pipe outlet of some kind on the manifold i make and then re-route the coolant out of this pipe into the donor thermostat housing somehow?? There's also a lot of electrical connections on the top & bottom of the donor manifold so do I need any these and if so where do I move them to? Starting to wonder if I've bitten off a bit more than I can chew with this one and maybe should have stuck with chopping up the chassis to make the donor fit as is :(

mark
7th August 2011, 11:43 AM
Dont be disheartened, its easy! very easy.

You can forget about ALL the electrical connections on the donor manifold if you are going megajolt

You dont need the bike loom really apart from the connector that fits the tps and the fuel pump

The manifold you need for the carbs should only have holes for the inlet runners, the square coolant outlet needs to be blocked

So basically a flat plate with four tubes to match the carb spacing

Then you remove the core plugs on the end of the engine and the coolant will flow from here instead via either a 1.6cvh thermostat housing (which fits straight on) or a home made outlet, if you make one weld in a small boss for your water temperature take off

Shame i took my cvh out otherwise i would have taken loads of pics for you, i will see what i can find on my laptop

mark
7th August 2011, 12:00 PM
I found a couple of pics, just keep asking if you are stuck!

brainbug007
7th August 2011, 12:26 PM
Thanks mark, I'm struggling with this bit!

The only electrical connections I need to keep are the ones that go onto the thermostat (think there's 2).

I don't need any of the vacum hoses either that went on to the donor manifold?

So the plate I make to bolt onto the engine for the manifold I just don't cut a hole for the coolant and that blocks it enough?

When you say remove the core plugs on the end of the engine have you got a picture of what these look like or where they are as it's hard to see in your coolant outlet picture.

Will the thermostat I've got from my 1.8 cvh (injection one) work? It bolts onto the front of the manifold by cylinder 1. So again I'm a bit confused about how this gets connected to the core plug outlets mentioned above.

mark
7th August 2011, 04:16 PM
At the flywheel end of the engine there are 3 round plugs in the end of the head, you can see them in my pic just below the dipstick, thats where you need to fit a thermostat housing

Your 1.8cvh wont fit you need one from a 1.6 front wheel drive escort, i think davedew is doing this so may post a pic for you to clarify what you need

You will only need 1 temp sender in the water system for your dash temp guage

You wont need any of the vacuum take offs

Yes you are correct just dont cut a hole in the manifold flange for the coolant outlet and this in conjuction with some thick gasket paper/sealant will make it water tight

Just take it one job at a time and ask questions as you go, dont worry about things that are too far ahead

Get your engine and gearbox in make your inlet manifold and get a thermostat on it then take it from there

brainbug007
7th August 2011, 05:10 PM
Nice one, thanks a ton for the help mark :)

My engine/gearbox is in now and bolted in. Got the loom out and have layed it all out so things are in the right sort of area.

I'll have to source a thermostat from a 1.6 then, is it only escorts that had a 1.6 cvh? Any idea what year range had them? If you could post a pic of one davedew or anyone else it would be appreciated!

For the inlet manifold, is 3mm plate good enough to make the engine & carb plates? Also for the connection pipes, what kind of thickness pipe should I use? I'm guessing the inside diameter needs to be the same as the carbs (36mm) and should it be bent into a more oval shape to match the holes on the engine head?

mark
7th August 2011, 07:09 PM
Nice one, thanks a ton for the help mark :)

My engine/gearbox is in now and bolted in. Got the loom out and have layed it all out so things are in the right sort of area.

I'll have to source a thermostat from a 1.6 then, is it only escorts that had a 1.6 cvh? Any idea what year range had them? If you could post a pic of one davedew or anyone else it would be appreciated!

For the inlet manifold, is 3mm plate good enough to make the engine & carb plates? Also for the connection pipes, what kind of thickness pipe should I use? I'm guessing the inside diameter needs to be the same as the carbs (36mm) and should it be bent into a more oval shape to match the holes on the engine head?


3mm wont be thick enough, personally i would want at least 8mm for the engine side as you want it to be as flat as possible, nothing to say you cant go less as long as its perfectly flat once its finished

2/3mm for the carbs pipes will be fine as you say just match either end with carbs/inlet ports as closely as you can

Are you using the carb rubbers off the bike? i used silicone hose on my cvh install but when i made a new manifold for the new engine i used the bike carb rubbers & it seems a better job as you dont have a lip inside where they join the carbs as you do with silicone, much more secure too

The carb rubbers are also fuel resistant whereas only specialist silicone hose is and is quite expensive

Also i have heard stories of carbs falling off when mounting them with silicone, mine never did but theres not much stub to mount them on the carb side

brainbug007
7th August 2011, 07:47 PM
Ok makes sense I need something really thick for the plates.

My carbs didn't come with the rubbers but thanks for the heads up, I'll try to source these as well and avoid the silicon route.

Jimmyd
7th August 2011, 08:40 PM
I believe the thermostat housing from the 1.4 cvh fwd also fits. I think that's what I used.

davedew
8th August 2011, 10:19 AM
Picture time.

Below is a picture showing the back of the head with the core plug that you need to take out. It is the one with the three tapped holes around it.

http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz233/davemdew/Haynes%20Roadster%20Pictures/Donor%20Parts/DSCF2320.jpg

The next picture shows the fwd thermostat housing bolted to the back of the head.

http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz233/davemdew/Haynes%20Roadster%20Pictures/Chassis%20Assembly/SAM_0173.jpg

Any further questions just ask.

Cheers

Dave

brainbug007
8th August 2011, 11:35 AM
Nice one, thanks for the pics dave, that makes a bit more sense now! I'll need to take a trip down the breakers to try and get a thermostat at some point. Any idea which years escorts had them in, and if there's an easy way to tell the engine size by looking at it? (wasn't there escorts made around the 1.1-1.2 range which I'm guessing won't work?)

Also I've been looking at sourcing the CHS to make the manifold and I'm struggling to find something with 3mm wall and an inside diameter of 36mm to match the carbs. Would it be better to go slightly bigger say 42mm OD/39 ID or something a bit smaller like 38mm OD/ 35mm ID?

davedew
8th August 2011, 12:25 PM
Basically if its a cvh and front wheel drive the thermostat housing should fit.
The housing was the same across the Mk2 XR2 & Mk3 XR2i Fiesta as well as the Escorts. Age range would be late 80's to mid 90's I think.

The tube I used for mine was 42.4x3.2 CHS. Closest like you say to the 36mm of the carbs. If you get stuck let me know as we keep it at work. I could post you some, or seeing as you are only in Bristol it isn't to far to come down to have a look at mine & Gus's car if you need.

brainbug007
8th August 2011, 12:59 PM
Ok thanks for the info once again about the thermostat, should help narrow it down a bit.

It's ok for the steel, I got it from bej engineering on ebay as they had a good price for 1m of 42.4x3mm chs and a couple of steel bars to make the plates out of. I was more wondering if it would be better to having something wider or smaller as no one seemed to do anything with 36mm id.

Out of curiosity at this stage, once I've got my 2 plates made with the tubes connecting them, how do the carbs get attached? Surely they're not only held on by the rubbers?

gus
8th August 2011, 01:18 PM
Attached is a link to a picture Dave posted of my manifold that will being going on a Zetec. Principal is the same though.

http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=60831&postcount=3

Carbs are held to the rubbers with jubliee clips. The rubbers have a lip inside that grips into a recess on the carb outlets. The rubbers then bolt to the manifold you have made.

Hopefully makes sense.

brainbug007
14th August 2011, 02:56 PM
Got the 1st part of my manifold done using the old inlet gasket as a template. Takes ages to drill holes in 8mm plate though...

brainbug007
24th August 2011, 11:23 AM
Nearly done with my manifold now, must say making a jig like bonzo suggested worked a treat. I'll post some pics of how it came out soon :) Can you post up some pictures for me davedew or anyone else about how you relocated the fan switch and the tempterature sender for the dash gauge? Also how do I go about removing the core plug at the back of the head?

davedew
24th August 2011, 01:15 PM
If you are using the fwd thermostat housing then the fan switch screws into it.

I drilled a tapped my manifold plate for the dash sender, where the original water outlet is in the head.
The below pictures shows the fan switch in the thermostat housing, the dash sensor (i'm using an Acewell dash not original Sierra) is between the two bolts directly behind the dipstick tube.

http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz233/davemdew/Haynes%20Roadster%20Pictures/Electrics/SAM_1039-1.jpg


With the core plug I tried getting it to spin around in the hole by using a hammer and a screw driver. Didn't work. In the end I drilled some holes in it and used a hack saw blade to split it. Came out a treat then.

brainbug007
24th August 2011, 01:31 PM
Nice one thanks dave. Any idea what size/thread the hole was you drilled & tapped for the temp sender?

davedew
24th August 2011, 01:32 PM
The Acewell sensor requires an M10x1.0 thread. I am not sure about the Sierra one. I think it will be a imperial possibly?

brainbug007
24th August 2011, 07:17 PM
Ok so I managed to find the fan switch on the donor manifold but I'm struggling a bit with the temp sender. According to the hanyes manual it looks like it should sit to the left of the thermostat housing on the inlet manifold but mine doesn't have anything there. I'm guessing the pic in the haynes manual is for the carb'd cvh rather than injection one like mine. Does it look like a kind of nipple that screws in? If so what does the loom connection look like as I can't seem to find what connected on there?

here's what i think is the fan switch?
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/fanswitch.jpg

and the temp sender?
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/tempsender.jpg

brainbug007
24th August 2011, 09:07 PM
And here's a couple pics of the manifold so far :)

http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303597.jpg
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303598.jpg

davedew
24th August 2011, 09:25 PM
What you have highlighted is the quick warm up pipe which woul have had a hose looping round to the other side of the engine. You need to go more to the left on the manifold. It shoul look threaded on the connection, but it is for a push on connection. Similar to the oil pressure warning light switch in the block of the engine.

brainbug007
25th August 2011, 09:43 AM
Had another look this morning and I'm still struggling to find it. Came across this http://fordsierranet.com.ar/Fotos/Engine%20electrical%20systems.PDF and on page 20, it talks about the engine coolant temperature sensor being on the bottom of the inlet manifold (which mine has) and it then goes on to talk about it again on page 22 under the esc hybrid section and says its on the left side of the thermostat housing but mine doesn't look like the picture as I have an exhaust gas recirculation inlet there?

davedew
25th August 2011, 01:28 PM
Below is a picture of the inlet manifold on Gus's donor. His finger is touching the sensor for the dash temp gauge.

Yours should be similar.

http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz233/davemdew/Gus%20Haynes%20Roadster/IMG_2078.jpg

http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz233/davemdew/Gus%20Haynes%20Roadster/IMG_2079.jpg

http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz233/davemdew/Gus%20Haynes%20Roadster/IMG_2080.jpg

davedew
25th August 2011, 01:34 PM
I wouldn't worry to much about the Sierra fan switch as it won't fit the FWD thermostat housing. You need one from a Escort or Fiesta that was fitted with a cvh. Something similar to the below. But a standard one would do.

http://www.burtonpower.com/xefs4.html

brainbug007
25th August 2011, 01:40 PM
Ok good to know, I guess the escort or fiesta fan switch will then attach to the fwd thermostat housing? For the temp sender, still a bit lost as mine doesnt look like gus's, if you look at this picture, you can see I don't have anything like that next to the thermostat?

http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/fanswitch.jpg

davedew
25th August 2011, 03:52 PM
Could be in a different place, but it will be on the manifold, and should look like the one pictured.

brainbug007
25th August 2011, 09:08 PM
Ok so I approached this a slightly different way this time. Having seen your picture of the connection I found that on the loom and luckily I had numbered it when I took it off. Low and behold the same number was on the bottom of the inlet manifold so I took the bit out and it looks like yours although it doesn't have the same bit sticking out of the top. Does this mean mine is broken or just different because of it being an injection engine?

loom connection
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303599.jpg

position on manifold
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303600.jpg

and the part taken off the manifold
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303601.jpg
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303602.jpg

brainbug007
25th August 2011, 09:09 PM
Also finished the manifold
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303607.jpg

brainbug007
25th August 2011, 09:13 PM
And had a play with the fan switch off my donor manifold. Turns out the 1.8 cfi fan switch has the same size/thread as the polo rad and the fwd thermostat so saves me buying a new one :) So I reckon I'll leave it on the fwd thermostat to plug the hole there and leave the polo fan switch on the rad to plug that hole and then just route my expansion bottle bottom hose to a T joint on the bottom hose rather than attempt making something to fit into the polo rad fan switch hole.

fitted to polo rad
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303604.jpg

fitted fwd thermostat
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303606.jpg
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/brainbug007/S8303605.jpg

Bonzo
26th August 2011, 09:03 AM
That's definately the engine tem sensor that you are holding in your hand :)

The centre part is missing ( Should look like Gus's ) No real drama there, you should be able to get a new one without any dramas.
If you are going to fit an aftermarket Temp gauge the chances are that you will need to change that anyway ;)

Pleased to see you managed to get your inlet manifold sorted :)

brainbug007
26th August 2011, 09:23 AM
Yup took awhile but got there in the end, bit annoying really that the haynes workshop manual doesn't really give much detail around the cfi engines. Just need to drill & tap a hole now for it in the manifold. Any idea what thread the temp sender should be? It looks close to an M10 but an M10 nut only screws on a little way before it stops so I'm guessing it's an imperial thread of some kind?

Bonzo
26th August 2011, 09:40 AM
Hi

I got a sneaky feeling that it has a taper thread ( They quite often do ) ;)

Will try & have a look for you later, it just so happens that I have a CVH manifold & carb on the workshop shelf & the usual sizes of taper taps :)

brainbug007
26th August 2011, 09:50 AM
thanks bonzo :)

Bonzo
26th August 2011, 12:20 PM
Well I looked

Guess what, it snapped off :D :D

Not all is lost though, I am almost certain sure that Ford use a 1/8th NPT taper thread for temp senders ( More or less an industry standard )
I guess that's why most el-cheapo tap & die sets have a 1/8th NTP tap in them ;)

Here's an ebay linky, not going to break the bank.

Ford Temp Sender (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270655246393?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

brainbug007
26th August 2011, 12:38 PM
Gosh that's cheap, I tried my local motor factor and they want £10 for one! So never having done a drill & tap before, what size should I drill the hole to for this before I try tapping it? (I've only got metric drill bits as well...)

Bonzo
26th August 2011, 01:47 PM
According to my little Red book ( Osbourne cutting tool guide ) the tapping drill size for 1/8" NTP is 8.4mm :)

An 8.5mm drill bit will most likely do the job if it is a decent quality one ;)

brainbug007
27th August 2011, 07:45 PM
Is 1/8 npt the same as 1/8 npt27? I checked my tap & die set and I've only got metric ones so I'm going to need to buy one and considering this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-Piece-UNC-UNF-Imperial-Tap-and-Die-Set-/170570237875?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27b6c747b3

Bonzo
27th August 2011, 08:34 PM
Hi

Yes according to my Red book a 1//8th NPT thread has 27 teeth per inch :)

I have 2 or 3 of those, you are more than welcome to have a lend of 1 if you don't want to spend a pile of dosh on a tap set that might never see use again.

Also got a good stock of 8.4mm drill bits, quite welcome to have a lend of one at the same time.

Hope that is some help to you :)

brainbug007
27th August 2011, 08:47 PM
I might take you up on that bonzo, I'm going to check with the neighbor tomorrow in case he has one but if he doesn't a lend of one would be great :) Already had to spend a small fortune on coolant hoses so any money saved is good!

Bonzo
27th August 2011, 08:51 PM
You will be most welcome if your neighbour is unable to help :)

brainbug007
30th August 2011, 09:07 AM
Nope the neighbor didn't have one but I'm considering buying a set anyhow as I'll need one for the seat belts too and it's probly a handy thing to have for future use. Do you know what thread the seatbelt mounts is supposed to have? I think it was something like 5/16 but there seems to be more than one thread type when I look at these two:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-Pro-tools-40pc-Imperial-AF-Tap-Die-Set-/260832676392?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cbad6ca28

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-Piece-UNC-UNF-Imperial-Tap-and-Die-Set-/170570237875?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27b6c747b3

Bonzo
30th August 2011, 10:44 AM
Hi

Yes, the seatbelt bots are 7/16ths UNF/NF

If you are creating a new thead for those the tapping drill size is 9.9mm.

The exact reason I keep all of my imperial stuff here, tis surprising how often I have a use for one of em

brainbug007
30th August 2011, 11:02 AM
So which one is UNF/NF? NC12, NC14, NF20?

Bonzo
30th August 2011, 05:47 PM
Some of the imperial thread sizes/pitches are a little confusing.

NC & UNC are both the same

NF & UNF are the same

The threads of the seatbelt fixings are most commonly called 7/16 UNF & has 20 threads per inch ( Also known as 7/16 NF20 ;) )

Hope that helps :)