David's Build Thread

[Davidbolam]

Hello guys, Just a quick one to let you know I have started my build today. I collected my completed MX5 based chassis and wishbone pack from Saturn today and I am really pleased with it. A couple of hours spent in the garage using the vice to push the suspension bushes in and i am well under way!!. I have already gathered together a selection of mx5 bits over the last few months whilst I was waiting for the MX5 variant to be launched. I will initially put in a 1.6 engine and have a limited slip diff as well.

I have tried to upload some pictures but I keep getting an error message saying the file size is too big! Once I have worked this out I will post the images.

David

[twinturbo]

Good luck :)

and have fun.

Upload the photos to something like photobucket, you can then link to them rather than uploading them to the forum.

TT

[HandyAndy]

Good luck with your build David, you,ll soon have it at the rolling stage & sitting in it going "brum brum" :D

keep us posted on your progress:cool:

cheers
andy

[PorkChop]

Ahh...so it was your chassis I was poking* about when I was up at Saturn last weekend :D It's very nicely made.

If you're collecting bits off different MX5s, make sure that the driveshafts and prop match your diff - they're different between the 1.6s and the 1.8s.

*Oi you - at the back there! Stop sniggering! :D

[Davidbolam]

Thanks for the motivating messages. I have been getting all my mx5 parts from 1 source. Its a company that race mx5's so they have been giving me a few tips for further down the line!

[vmax1974]

You may have to share that source of parts with me lol

[Davidbolam]

AK Automotive in Rowlands Gill. He sells a lot of stuff through ebay and is a big supplier to MNR for their MX5 variant.


I have now added a Flikr link so I can upload photos!!!

[Davidbolam]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/

[twinturbo]

Looks Good :)

TT

[twinturbo]

you should be able to post the picture directly on the forum, should be some options under the share menu at the top of each picture.

TT

[SeriesLandy]

Something like this ( under share menu above photo, then get link)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/6109847011/

Edit: get can't add the link on iPhone, right click on image, click on 640x480 size, then right click on photo copy image location.

Hope that helps

[Davidbolam]

After lots of measuring, re-measuring and a bit more measuring I cut the aluminium for the floors over the weekend. An engineer friend of mine said he would do it for me but he has been on the sick so I had to do it myself. I am now ready to drill the first hole in my chassis which seems a little daunting!!.

I have put some pics on my flickr accounts.

Also does anyone know the size of the bolts used for the rally design alloy steering rack clamps... are these UNF. I have only just worked out Metric bolts!!

[twinturbo]

A floor transforms the look. Enjoy fixing it in place.

TT

[Bonzo]

Standard M8 metric bolts will be just fine for the rack clamps

Just make sure that they are at least 8.8 grade tensile strength ;)

Can't remember the length but long enough for a flat washer on top of the clamp & a penny washer underneath the rack support bracket, then nylock nut & leave a few threads spare :)

[spud69]

Hi David,

That's looks nice laid out in the garage, need anything then just give us a shout.

Cheers........AndyH

[Davidbolam]

thanks Andrew - I am aiming to pop over on friday morning... be ready for lots of questions lol

also... tonight I had a riveting time!! I managed to get one of the floor panels in place. I got my wife to pur the first rivet in which she seemed to enjoy but she didn't volunteer to do the rest. Now I am just wondering how to get black sikaflex off my fingers and from under my nails!!

[twinturbo]

thanks Andrew - I am aiming to pop over on friday morning... be ready for lots of questions lol

also... tonight I had a riveting time!! I managed to get one of the floor panels in place. I got my wife to pur the first rivet in which she seemed to enjoy but she didn't volunteer to do the rest. Now I am just wondering how to get black sikaflex off my fingers and from under my nails!!

Don't get it on in the first place.... ;)

What type of riviter did you use? I used a lazy scissor riviter and it was a breeeeze.

TT

[mark]

thanks Andrew - I am aiming to pop over on friday morning... be ready for lots of questions lol

also... tonight I had a riveting time!! I managed to get one of the floor panels in place. I got my wife to pur the first rivet in which she seemed to enjoy but she didn't volunteer to do the rest. Now I am just wondering how to get black sikaflex off my fingers and from under my nails!!

Cutting your fingers off would be the easiest way!

Its almost as bad as ford sump sealant :D

[twinturbo]

Cutting your fingers off would be the easiest way!

Its almost as bad as ford sump sealant :D

But a quater of the cost of the ford stuff..:eek:

I remember when I was doing mine, my 6 yr old (as he was then!) was helping, all I kept saying was "Keep away from that black stuff, if you get it on your cloths your mother will kill us."

TT

[Davidbolam]

TT I have one of those lazy riviters as well and they make light work of all those rivets! now the floor is complete! (and i wore rubber gloves this time so no black fingers from the sealant!)

[Davidbolam]

I have added some more pictures to my flickr account. The front end is assembled and looking nice. Notice the way I am using string instead of springs to save weight lol!

[Davidbolam]

I have spent a little more time on my build and broke my first bit! I was tightening a bolt on a brake pad carrier and it snapped off. This mean't I had to go to AK Automotive (MX5 specialists) in Rowlands Gill for a new one. The fantastic thing is he tried to remove the broken bolt but it was well and truly stuck so he gave me a new one!! FREE. He also gave me 4 space saver wheels FREE of charge so that I can get it rolling! (on the understanding that I wont take them back to him as he has been trying to get rid of them for a while). All I need to do is get my mate to push me down the street and I will have a two seater go kart!!

[Davidbolam]

Ive just spent the best part of the evening trying to drill out the top of my rear uprights with a 12 mm hole. If I manage to finally get through without killing my new bench drill it will be a miracle. Once this is done my chassis will be rolling!

All the bits I thought would be easy turn out to be hard work and the bits you think will be hard are easy! AGHH

[chrisponter]

Looking good David!

[mark]

Ive just spent the best part of the evening trying to drill out the top of my rear uprights with a 12 mm hole. If I manage to finally get through without killing my new bench drill it will be a miracle. Once this is done my chassis will be rolling!

All the bits I thought would be easy turn out to be hard work and the bits you think will be hard are easy! AGHH

Not trying to teach you how to suck eggs, but if the drill is sharp, the speed is correct and its in a pillar drill a 12mm hole would take about a minute! even with no pilot hole

Good drills are worth their weight in gold if you are using cheapies by the way :)

[Davidbolam]

thanks for the advice. I managed to get through eventually. Probably a mix of cheap drill and drill bit.

i now have my rear end assembled and two wheels on (well space savers)

I have put some more pics on my flickr acct.

Tomorrow as long as it doesn't rain I will push it out of the garge for the first time!!!

[mark]

Its great when its on wheels and you can push it out of the garage and get some space back!

[Davidbolam]

Just had a very productive night in the garage. Apart from it being freezing and windy I managed to cut the 5mm plate (with a hacksaw - i'm far too soft to use an angle grinder lol) for the gearbox mount and part of the 3mm plate for the handbrake (pictures on my Flickr link below)

Does anyone know how to post pictures into the message??

[CTWV50]

Something like this is what you need. With plenty of WD40 and a slow drill speed. Cheap drill bits are made of cheese!

http://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-12mm-extreme-2-hss-drill-bit/31989

Liking the nice clean garage and build up photos.:)

[shh120m]

Dorma bits are really good too, they stay sharp forever, even with abuse, they are expensive but can be bought as single bits in the sizes you need for a few quid each.

[spud69]

Dorma bits are really good too, they stay sharp forever, even with abuse, they are expensive but can be bought as single bits in the sizes you need for a few quid each.

I've been drilling through stainless rod with the ones you gave me Nathan and they have been spot on. Cheers..

AndyH

[shh120m]

forgot to say, the rrp on those is £5 each so if i give you them half price i reckon you owe me about 500 quid:D :eek: :D give or take fifty quid or so.
Joking aside, i drilled through some 15mm hard plate on the stumpgrinder at work this morning, i couldnt be arsed with slow and steady cos it was in a hard to reach position. The bit was smoking like mad at full speed but went through no problem, it didnt blunt it a bit.

[Davidbolam]

Is there anyone near Newcastle who would be able to weld a couple of brackets for me in exchange for some beer. I have been waiting for my mate who works offshore to do this for me ( a professional welder) however he has gone totally AWOL!! and im kind of now stuck with my build. There are 3 brackets . 1 gearbox mount, 1 diff support and a handbrake cable support. I can photos if required

Thanks

David

[shh120m]

why dont you pop down and see spud, il be there on saturday so i could help if hes busy

[Davidbolam]

huge thanks to spud for doing the welding that needed to be done on my handbrake and diff mount bracket. I also got to learn a bit about GRP from Noel. I have added some more pictured on my flickr account. More to follow...

[Davidbolam]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/6454718259/in/photostream

[Davidbolam]

I just picked up some rear calipers for my build. A bargain (I hope) from ebay. I have a had a look over them and started cleaning them up but...... I moved the handbrake attachment to see if the piston moved (on both calipers) and they didn't move. The levers move but the pistons didn't really budge. Does anyone know if the rear calipers rely on being full of brake fuid before they move. ie is it a form of hydraulic handbrake? I dont think there is anything wrong with the calipers. They seem to be in visual conditions. Thanks David

[Davidbolam]

I popped in to see Nathan at NTS today and very kindly wwelded up my steering column. pictures on my flickr page.

What size of steering wheel are people using on their cars?

[Davidbolam]

I managed to get hold of a cheep steering wheel from the supplier I normally get my mx5 bit from. No good for IVA but handy for pushing the car in and out of the garage. I also got a free copy of complete kit car magazine thrown in by him as well.

I have also got my rear aluminium panel in place without getting my fingers covered in black sikaflex

some more pics on flickr!!

[Davidbolam]

After wondering about how to get a round having a Q reg my prayers were answered when Lancia John put up for sale his dismantled MX5 on here last week. I now have a garage full of mx5 parts and the identity to go along with it. I really only needed the endging and the loom so have lots of other parts available which will probably go on ebay. If anyone needs anything drop me a line and you can have it for a very reasonable price.

My build is going to go on hold for a coupe of weeks as my Daughter was born on tuesday morning so every spare second is going to involve sleep for me!! :)

Nathan at NTS, I haven't forgotten about the pedals and will be ordering asap still.

[shh120m]

ahh, i wondered why i had a spare kit around. its all done apart from the bush tubes cos the drillstocks knackered on the lathe, i should have it fixed for the end of next week, providing dunford answer their phone.:mad:

[skov]

Congrats on the new arrival David!

[Davidbolam]

thanks skov. I had forgotten how hard having no sleep is!!

[HandyAndy]

My build is going to go on hold for a coupe of weeks as my Daughter was born on tuesday morning so every spare second is going to involve sleep for me!! :)



Congratulations :)

You,ll learn the Knack of sleeping sat upright :eek: :D

All the best to you & your family.

Andy

[Johno]

Congratulations too on the new arrival.......:)
Hope everything is fine and best wishes to you and your family.
Johno

[Davidbolam]

thanks handy andy and johno

[twinturbo]

Congrats :)


"Alien" is on tv this week, it was the first movie my eldest (toby 7.7) watched with me. :eek:

Aliens was the second, then a series about airline crashes...

Daniel was a dam sight easier and required no late night/morning work!!

TT

[Davidbolam]

thanks twin.

did you manage to get the chassis from john?

[twinturbo]

Unfortunately I had to work and was not able to make it over.

[Davidbolam]

I got my pedal box from NTS Engineering yesterday and it is all assemled ready to go in.

Here is a photo...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/6980400711/in/photostream

David

[Davidbolam]

I eventually trial fitted my engine last night so it feels like I have made some progress with my build!

Today I picked up the phone to protech and ordered my shocks! My build budget has taken a bit of a wack!

I have posted a couple of photos to my flickr account

[HandyAndy]

Nice progress David, getting the engine in is a major milestone of the build:cool:

You,ll soon be taking it for a little spin I,m sure ;)

cheers
andy

[Davidbolam]

I did a bit of welding tonight . I was trying to tack in my engine mounts but some some reason I cannot get the welds to stick. I must be the worst welder ever lol well nearly. My mate had ago and it was worse. Will give it another try tomorrow evening aghhh. On the plus side protect emailed me to day to say they are going to make my shocks tomorrow and send them out!!

[minicountryman1961]

I did a bit of welding tonight . I was trying to tack in my engine mounts but some some reason I cannot get the welds to stick. I must be the worst welder ever lol well nearly. My mate had ago and it was worse. Will give it another try tomorrow evening aghhh. On the plus side protect emailed me to day to say they are going to make my shocks tomorrow and send them out!!


Did you run out of gas and not notice?

Also, when I bought my MIG it was setup for fluxcore wire, when I converted it to Argon/CO2 I forgot to change the polarity. It was awful. Then I realized my mistake and switched it and it has been doing great ever since.
.

[Davidbolam]

There is definately gas coming out. For some reason the tips kept getting welded to the wire. Is this normal as I went through a whole packet of 5. Looks like i will have to watch youtube!!

[K4KEV]

sounds like a wire feeding issue if the arc is burning back to the tip and knacking them....check for the usual issues like no kinks or tight curves in the torch line, feed mechanism is set right and wire that you are using is clean and free from rust

[Davidbolam]

The wire is feeding out without any issues. would it be worthwhile trying with a faster wire speed?

[CTWV50]

Turn up the wire speed and make sure the metal is clean that happened to me alot at first.

[K4KEV]

I usually have my wire speed around 6-7 for horizontal and vertical welding and tacking......I only ever turn it down for thin gauge metal and overhead welding
if it "bobbling" at the end of the wire when you are welding then it is defo too slow.....it should look like it is spraying out the end of the wire

[skov]

Run some beads on a scrap bit of steel, whilst slowly increasing/decreasing the wire speed.
Too slow and it'll come out in blobs, too fast and it'll feel like a machine gun.
Somewhere between the two it'll feel 'right' and you'll get a nice sizzling (often described like bacon frying in a pan!).

Also make sure the metal you're welding is clean, and your ground clamp is attached firmly, and close to where you're welding.

[Johno]

Hi David,
+ one with all the above.
Definately sort out the welder on scrap plate before doing any tacking.
Too much wire speed will result in the welder back firing as such with pieces of arced out wire all over the place. Setting the "Heat control" as I call it too low will also give similar results but with the wire just arcing and not burning the copper off.
It's hard for somebody to tell you what settings to use as each welder is different.
Basically play about with the settings untill you get a convex (domed) weld with the thickness (parent metal) you are using in the position you are going to weld.
Too higher wire speed and to lower voltage will result in wire just laying on the metal with arc marks here and there.
Too higher voltage and not enough wire speed will result in the wire burning back to the tip and melting wire to the tip and possibly holes in parent metal.
It also depends on what type of shielding gas you are using, and how much is coming out. Too much gas and it will cool the weld too much as you are welding, too little gas and you will have porousity in the weld.

I know it sounds complicated but as long as you practice on scrap metal first it should be OK.
You want a nice "crackle" to the weld when it's set up right like you're frying sausages.....LOL
If you are burning out tips turn up the wire speed or turn down the voltage. Too much voltage and too higher wire speed will not burn out tips normally.

Johno

[Davidbolam]

thanks for all the help.

I dropped the parts off with my mate this morning who is an offshore welder! he did find my welds amusing but is going to do them properly for a couple of pints of stella!! bonus. I am still going to master welding though as i am bound to need to do some more somewhere on the build.

David

[Johno]

Hi David,
Nice feeling when you drop the engine in, big grin factor time for that mile stone....:D
It's a sad day when you gotta take it out again though to put other stuff in...:(
I guess it's all woth it in the end.

Looking good there David.......Johno

[Davidbolam]

When installing the fuel lines I am going to use 8 mm micro bore pipe, however is this the ID or OD? I want to buy the right size p clips.

Thanks

David

[ozzy1]

Usually fuel lines are listed by the size of the bore not the od.

[skov]

When installing the fuel lines I am going to use 8 mm micro bore pipe, however is this the ID or OD? I want to buy the right size p clips.


Just measured mine - it's 8mm external diameter.

[Davidbolam]

Thanks for the measurement skov.

I am about to put in place my suspension. What height should I adjust the chassis to? Is it the same front and back?

David

[Davidbolam]

My mounts were dropped off yesterday by my mate. Really pleased with the quality of the welding. Much better than my effort. Just need a coat of paint then to stick them back in the car

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/7450770602/

I have also installed my suspension but it will need to be adjusted. If I compress the spring will the chassis go up or down (probably a stupid question)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/7450764784/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/7450761368/in/photostream/

[Davidbolam]

Why won't my pictures show?

[robo]

Works for me :) Builds looking good.

bob

[alga]

Why won't my pictures show?

Because you need to paste the address of the image, not the picture's flickr page. You can get at it by clicking on the magnifying glass, then view all sizes, then picking the right size, then right clicking on the image and "Copy image location".

[Davidbolam]

My engine is in (again) ! Hopefully it will never have to come out again lol. Mounts have been cut, welded and painted"
!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/7489946612/" title="IMG-20120702-00030.jpg by Davidbolam, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8011/7489946612_9e5661aa9a.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG-20120702-00030.jpg"></a>I have uploaded more pictures to my Flickr account

David

[alga]

The http://farm9.staticflickr.com... part is what you want between the img tags:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8011/7489946612_9e5661aa9a.jpg

[Davidbolam]

Thanks Albert

[Davidbolam]

took my propshaft down to cps in team valley today and for a very reasonable price they shortened and balanced it. They did a first class job and phoned me after an hour of dropping it off to say it was done......however I should have measured the size required as its too short... Lots of b's and f's in my garage earlier!!!


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8429/7516054056_fc4188b087.jpg

[vmax1974]

We get the ones on the busses at work done there asked last time I was there and they quoted me 85 quid so will be taking it down with a load of bus ones at some point

[Davidbolam]

They did mine for 35 plus vat. I asked about a new one but the mx5 fittings are not available. They have a strange flange and universal joints. Looks like I will be going to Rowland's gill to get another one and back to cps!! At least his one will be easier to measure as I can draw around the shiny bit!

David

[Davidbolam]

I've started trying to lay the loom over my car to identify some connectors that weren't labelled on my loom.

The bit I am really struggling with is the battery end. There positive terminal has 2 wires coming out. One of the has been cut and the other appears to go to the starter motor then to the fuse box. I cannot work out what the cut on is for. There is also another black and yellow wire ( which I am assuming is the negative but the connector looks like it could fasten inside of the positive terminal.

Here is a photo showing these? Any ideas ???
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8010/7528615234_a97864f327.jpg

Also......

To the rear of the fuse box there are 2 wires. A white on that seems to com back from the alternator and a black one. They both have rings on the end. Where do these go?

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7124/7528620320_11fda20fe5.jpg

[CTWV50]

What year is your donor I have mazda electrical wiring books for a few of the years 1993 94 and 95.

At a guess the black and yellow is negative, the cut wire don't worry about it's for optional stuff I think. The black and white wires are for the main fuse I think. Only know that as I blew the mainfuse minutes after handing over cash for my donor. I will confirm that if you give me your car year.

[Davidbolam]

The year is 1991. I have trawled the Internet but only managed to find a 1992 diagram and that doesn't make too much sense.

The cut wire seems to be. The main attachment to the terminal connector?

Do the black and whit wires go in the fuse box?


David

[CTWV50]

The year is 1991. I have trawled the Internet but only managed to find a 1992 diagram and that doesn't make too much sense. David

It's ok I checked the 94 wiring. Black and yellow is earth and the other wire with the grey rubber boot cover is positive. The white and black are the main fuse connections. the main fuse has to be unbolted iirc to remove the fuse box hence why they are loose. So the battery wire goes to the starter in black comes away from the start in black and goes to the 80A main fuse and the fuel injection 30A fuse and the continues from the main fuse in white to the alternator and the ignition switch were it meets the other Black and Blue wire wire from the starter. HTH. :)

[skov]

At the battery end, I'm pretty sure the black/yellow one is ground.
The only place the battery+ goes is the main fuse box and the starter motor.
Thick black wire to to starter, thinner one to fusebox.

At the fuse box end the two ring terminals bolt inside the main fuse box, one either side of the main 80A fuse.
Black one is battery+, the white one is alternator output.
It's a bit fiddly getting them in and out of the fuse box if I recall...
There's a little 'door' that opens on the side to help with access.

[Davidbolam]

Thanks to both of you for your help. I think I understand. I will have another look tomorrow. David

[Davidbolam]

Tonight I have spent ages removing tape from the mx5 loom. There must be a couple of miles of the stuff and it's soooooo sticky.


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8019/7545718944_f145bd8da8.jpg

[Davidbolam]

Does anyone now what this is for. Can't find it in the loom diagram. If is on the offside close to the headlight. It's not the pop up headlight actuator as I have already chopped that out.

thanks david

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8013/7552798116_aee9eac8cb.jpg

[CTWV50]

Sorry no idea, could be optional equipment! :confused:

[skov]

I think it might be for air con, not 100% sure though.
Can you trace the wires and see where they go?

[Davidbolam]

I was thinking it could be the air con. The terminal ends a blocked with what looks like rubber so hopefully it not needed. (chop chop:) )

There seems to be thousands of wires. I was going to leave them all in place but the loom is suprisingly heavy and I want to reduce weight wherever possible.

If I had taken the loom from the donor myself I would have put a lot more labels on.

I have lost the pop up headlight's, the washer system and the wipers. I just need to find the heater controls and blower motor wires. (None of these seem to correspond with the wiring diagrams).

[skov]

It's not the easiest loom to work with is it!
Part of the problem I had with the diagrams is that they don't detail any of the intermediate connectors between the different sections, which makes it a bu99er to follow.
It's well worth stripping out everything you don't need though, there's a few kg's of dead weight in there!

[Davidbolam]

I was finding it very satisfying looking at how many bits I had saved last night!!

[vmax1974]

Would be interesting to weigh everything you lose off the electrical system x x x x x x x

[Johno]

Hi David,
Here's a link to a download for the Miata 1991 wiring diagram http://www.madracki.com/miata/wiring.html
Helped me out big time when I stripped my loom.
Cars really coming on now. It's a nice feeling when you can bolt stuff in and leave it there.......:D

Keep up the good work and keep the piccy's coming....:)

Johno

ps....... I also have a PDF workshop manual for the 1990 if it's of any help''''

[Davidbolam]

Has anyone got any suggestions what this might be off??

Looks like a radio connector but it's not on any of the diagrams..


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7118/7558792092_eb725b1f2b.jpg

[Davidbolam]

I just answered my own question!! I went on eBay and searched for the part and managed to match the wires to the photo

David

Look at what I have saved so far!!!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7128/7558790720_10bb63d9f5.jpg

[Davidbolam]

Is it taboo to have the fuel pipes next to the wiring loom under the bonnet. I am trying to route the pipes but there are so many wires for the mx5 some of the pipes/wires may have to cross.

David

[Davidbolam]

Tonight I made some progress with tidying up my loom. Until.... I traced my horn wire back through the harness and it ended at a plug!!! With no other plug to match. with the aid of skov's wiring diagram I realised that there should be a horn relay here. More parts to buy!!!! :D

[skov]

I might still have the horn relay, if I can dig it out you're welcome to it.
Post up a pic of the connector and I'll have a look.

EDIT: Found it! PM me your address and I'll stick it in the post.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Qnbr6aiZwy8/UASEgOVpR5I/AAAAAAAAIfo/xR_6NrsFR5M/s454/horn_relay.jpg

[Davidbolam]

Here is what it looks like

http://www.autolinkmx5.com/relay-horn-lights-etc-mx-5-mk25-used-1131-p.asp

The connector looks like this...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/7585749262_57f9bb1382.jpg

If you have the would be great please

I can PayPal you some money to cover it

[Davidbolam]

You got there first.

Pm sent mate

David

[Davidbolam]

Decided to put some power through my loom tonight. No sparks or fires!!! ..... But not much else either. The headlight relay seemed to click on and off with the light switch but that was about it. When I flash the lights the fuel and oil pressure gauges seem to jump to max.

Has anyone got any ideas?

[skov]

Flat battery?
Missing Earths?

[Davidbolam]

Hi John thanks for sending the relay.

The earths could be the thing. There are no lights on the dashboard at all though. Not even dim ones.

David

[skov]

Check your main fuse (and the connections to it).
Headlights are about the only thing that don't go through it, so if that's gone your headlight relay will work, but pretty much nothing else will!

[Davidbolam]

Tonight I went out in the garage with the multimeter. I was double checked the connectors and the earth supply for the ignition switch as previously I couldn't get any power to the clocks etc. :mad:

I realised I had totally the wrong plug in there. Swapped it around for a more beefy looking one and turned the key. It turned straight away ( took me totally by suprise) :eek:

I am going to put in the tank on Sunday so will get a bit of magic juice from the petrol station when I do the groceries at the weekend and have a spare pair of duds to put on afterwards.:)

My horn is ready to put in as well thanks to skov for sending me his spare relay.


David

[skov]

Nice one David!
Don't think I ever would have guessed that was the problem! :D

Don't forget to record a video of your first start, it's traditional!
Any chance of seeing some pics of your loom routing too?

[Davidbolam]

I will make sure I video the start. My loom routing at the moment is just plonked on the chassis. Now that it works I am going to tidy it up a bit more. I think most of it will be hidden under the scuttle though.

[Davidbolam]

I recd my tank yesterday from Nathan that was built by k4kev. It is a work of art and will almost be a shame to hide it under the bodywork. I also got my roll bar and that will br going off the powder coaters shortly.

[PorkChop]

I recd my tank yesterday from Nathan that was built by k4kev. It is a work of art and will almost be a shame to hide it under the bodywork. I also got my roll bar and that will br going off the powder coaters shortly.

I saw that roll bar - it's a lovely piece of work :)

[Davidbolam]

Here is a picture of my Saturn/nts tank and roll bar

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7247/7652914674_03b7c9526e.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8434/7652921058_92ba0503f3.jpg

[Davidbolam]

Hello,

In front of the scuttle there is a piece of horizontal aluminium that the battery sits on. My question is?? Does the aluminium stop short, on top or go past the rearmost (near the front of the scuttle) chassis tubes running side to side on the car.

I am trying to fit this before ordering my body kit.

Is there anything wrong with using rubber fuel hose if it is securely mounted and doesn't run through the interior compartment of the car. I would like to use it under the bonnet between the end of the tunnel and the engine. My fuel lines are going to be running down the near side of the car and the inlet manifold is on the offside.

David

[alga]

In fact, the Saturn scuttle stretches about a third into the distance between TR9 and TR8. I made ally panels that sit firmly on those tubes, the scuttle is relatively easily removable and sits on top of it. There is some concealed space to organize wires etc. on.

[Davidbolam]

It's been quite a long time since my last post. I have fabricated a new support for the diff, completed all of my fuel lines and installed my tank.

It's been on axle stands for a few weeks so at lunchtime I pushed it outside took some super unleaded from my lawnmower supply and attempted to see if it would run.

IT RUNS!!!!! I wasn't expecting it to sound like a Lancaster haha. A few niggles as the ecu wasn't earthed correctly but it now runs really nicely.

Now I need a radiator ans some brake hoses.

David

[spud69]

Well done David, its always a happy milestone when you get it running.

See if you can put some vid up on youtube.

Andy

[K4KEV]

yay...nice one Dave....spurred me on that has

[skov]

Nice one David!
Going to need to see some video proof though!

[Davidbolam]

I will upload some video ASAP. Skov , I don't know hoe you sat inside the garage and started yours!! Mine was very loud.

[Davidbolam]

Here is the proof that it works!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=973FFavyrvY&feature=youtube_gdata_player





:D

[Davidbolam]

I have managed to link up my hydraulic clutch to the slave cylinder and it appears to work! I have used the same principle as skov to replace the clutch switch from being mechanically operated to using a hydraulic switch in the line.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8335/8127493779_aec3f97ff2.jpg

I also recd my seats from kit parts in hull today.

Quite comfy but certainly snug!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8331/8149224579_c0e2f7c0f6.jpg

David

[skov]

Nice one David.
What's the clutch pedal feel like on yours?
Mine's a bit on the heavy/stiff side. I think I might have to change the master cylinder or make the pedal longer at some point...

[Davidbolam]

Nice one David.
What's the clutch pedal feel like on yours?
Mine's a bit on the heavy/stiff side. I think I might have to change the master cylinder or make the pedal longer at some point...

Hi mine is alright. It's no harder than the one in my wife's golf gt. I am going to have a go with the multimeter later to see if the switch works with the pressure in the line.


I had the hose made by furore and they did a very good job. I am planning to have my brake hoses made there as well.

[Davidbolam]

I managed to fit my brake flexi hoses the other day (made by furore). I am hesitant to fill the system with fluid. I willl need to remove the front flexi's when i attach the bodywork and dont want a mess in my garage..... However i do fancy the idea of taking the car for a quick spin (on a private road ahemm cough).

I have also rec'd 2 grp seats from kit spares in Hull (the biggest box I have ever had delivered - my son immediately made it into a submarine). They seem to be good quality, however the way the harness holes have been trimmed seem to make it impossible to fit the edging strip. Looks like I will have to ask santa for a Dremmel! Could be handy with the bodywork as well.

Has anyone else fitted these seats? If so what kinds of runners fit? The seats seem to have a bulge underneath so they presently dont sit completely flat on the floor. I was hoping not to use a runner on the passenger seat to save a bit of weight.

[deezee]

Just a quick mention that I had to get a certificate of Conformance for my brake lines (Also from Furore) to pass the IVA.

[Davidbolam]

Did Russ provide this free of charge? I am well impressed with the service so far

[deezee]

I'd expect so. I sorted it out myself, a long with many other items of paperwork the IVA man wanted to see to prove stuff was suitable if it wasn't marked as such (fuel filler hose, carb rubbers and brake lines). Receipts don't do it, they wanted actual proof.

[Davidbolam]

I popped out for 2 mins tonight (braving the cold) to do something on the car. I thought an easy job would be to change the thermostat. Both of the bolts sheared off. Has anyone got any ideas of how to remove them??? Here is a picture. I was contemplating drilling them out and using 2 long bolts.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8094/8427173139_f64b5fab86.jpg

[vmax1974]

Will the thermostat housing slip over the broken studs

If they will take housing off place washer over stud weld stud to washer then weld a nut to the washer

The heat generated should make the stud easy to remove cause the alli will expand with heat twice as much as the steel

Hope this helps

[Davidbolam]

I cannot get the thermostat housing to move. The bolts seemed to be really soft as though they were aluminium.

[Davidbolam]

I've managed to remove the thermostat cover and I have about 4-5mm of bolt showing. Any other way of doing it other than welding?

[vmax1974]

As long as you can apply heat and grip and turn the stud it should come out

I assume you have handed the welder back if you do need one you could come borrow mine for a day or 2

[rapidtornado]

I had a similar issue on my manifold block, the way I tackled it was to drill a 3-4mm hole in the centre then slam an oversized torz bit into the hole. Hit the torx bit fairly hard to try and 'jar' the bolt, then put a socket it on it and wind it out... it may not work if the material is as soft as you say but it worked for me in the past when all else fails

hence why me and half pint nick named the car 'bolt'...

[alga]

My vote goes for welding something to the studs, too. I had also used a stud extractor on a broken exhaust stud successfully.

[robo]

My vote goes for welding something to the studs, too. I had also used a stud extractor on a broken exhaust stud successfully.

I did a bit on this but cant find it. Has the search engine gone tits up??????:eek:

Bob

[flyerncle]

Another method I have had great succes with is to put a cut down the side of where the stud/bolt is mounted and open it slightly with the right sized chisel and as you say David nut and bolt.

If you are stuck give me the nod.

[Davidbolam]

Thanks I have ordered a stud removal tool off ebay and will see if it works. I am going to spray the joint with wd40 as much as possible until it arrives. If that doesn't budge I will try some of the other methods.

Exhaust. I managed to find and exhaust on ebay off a 7 style car (not sure which) it should have arrived today but I missed the delivery by about 5 minutes and they didn't try to leave it with a neighbour or behind my bin that was the instruction on the parcel!! Hope it's ok when it arrives as I got it for £25

David

[vmax1974]

I find plusgas to be better freeing off oil

[Davidbolam]

I have finally found a supplier for the 90 degree angle for the speedo cable! 18.50 delivered. Better than 80 from toyota (used though). I have just sent the guy an email to see if he has any more available for mx5 powered builders.

David

[Davidbolam]

The post man came running down my street yesterday, whilst I was working on my car and said," here are some more parts for your kit car!" Luckily it was the stud extractor and the snapped bolts came out straight away! Now just waiting for my Exhaust to turn up!

[Johno]

Hi David,
What type of exhaust did you go for in the end?
I see you're progressing quickly on the car now...:cool:

[Davidbolam]

Hi Johno,

I bought the exhaust of ebay and was told it had been fitted to a vindicator, however i think its off a robin hood. I am only going to use this temporarily until I buy a cbs one. It should stop the neighbours complaining too much.

I am still waiting for the exhaust to arrive (after making several complaints to the courier).

fingers crossed it should be there tomorrow!!

In the meantime I have been working on my tool shadow board on the garage wall. You can never beat good tool control!

David

[Davidbolam]

I've spent a bit more time in the garage lately. I have installed my radiator and some of the pipe work. I am waiting for a gasket and an olive to turn up in the post so that I can finish it. When I took off one of the old coolant tubes to the water pump inlet the tube had corroded badly so needed replacing. I looked on mx5 parts £100! And ebay £40! So i went to the specialist breaker next to me and got one for £5 that is almost brand new. I also managed to pick up a fuel pump plug for eternal.

Here is a picture of my almost complete radiator...


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8096/8497899252_ef886a8bac.jpg

[Eternal]

Looking good David i have to admit its a very smart build! Thanks a load for finding that plug wont be long now till i can get the beast running.

[Davidbolam]

I want to set up my suspension roughly myself. What angles should I measure and what should they be??? And.... Has anyone got any tricks for measuring them. I was planning to make a cardboard plum bob.

Also has none used the bodywork from agm? Would there be any problems with the side panels stopping short of the suspension?

David

[flyerncle]

I have a magnetic camber guage if you are stuck.;)

[Davidbolam]

I have a magnetic camber guage if you are stuck.;)

Cheers,

I am going to try and make a plumb bob contraption with a protactor some string and MDF. If I get stuck I will give you a shout.

When it gets a bit warmer you will have to keep an eye out for me working on my car when you are on the Base leg of the circuit which seems to be right over my house.

I am going to try and set up my rear wheels with 1 degree camber and the front wheels with a couple of degrees toe in. Does this sound about right? All I could find was something on the westfield owners club forum....

[Stot]

On page 159 of the book it has recommended starting points.

Front and Rear Camber 1 degree negative
Front Toe In 0-0.5 degrees
Type Pressures 18-20psi.

Cheers
Stot

[Davidbolam]

On page 159 of the book it has recommended starting points.

Front and Rear Camber 1 degree negative
Front Toe In 0-0.5 degrees
Type Pressures 18-20psi.

Cheers
Stot

Thanks.

Why don't you get you logo made into a badge as it would look great on a nosecone.... or let me have the artwork to make some up.

[Stot]

Thanks.

Why don't you get you logo made into a badge as it would look great on a nosecone.... or let me have the artwork to make some up.

I have a CNC Mill at home to do just that. :) Wheel centres too.

If you want the artwork still I can sent it over.

Cheers
Stot.

[flyerncle]

By all means do David,no probs at all.
Every time I am in the curcuit its usually mental with inbound IFR traffic and they tend to say the imortal words "keep it tight and expadite vacate" so I tend to turn base at Brunswick Ind Est and descend quick to land well up to vacate Foxtrot.

Set up a flashing light and we can sort a flight one day.

If you are stuck let me know.

[Davidbolam]

By all means do David,no probs at all.
Every time I am in the curcuit its usually mental with inbound IFR traffic and they tend to say the imortal words "keep it tight and expadite vacate" so I tend to turn base at Brunswick Ind Est and descend quick to land well up to vacate Foxtrot.

Set up a flashing light and we can sort a flight one day.

If you are stuck let me know.

Somewhere I have a bright orange allied forces marker (from the gulf war 1 designed for the top of a tank. not mine just acquired it) as long as you not in an a10 you should spot it.

Here is a picture of the earth bond I have added to my tank. I have used 17 amp wire. Will this be sufficiently thick?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8250/8531362499_38c1d720e2.jpg

[CTWV50]

Somewhere I have a bright orange allied forces marker (from the gulf war 1 designed for the top of a tank. not mine just acquired it) as long as you not in an a10 you should spot it.

Here is a picture of the earth bond I have added to my tank. I have used 17 amp wire. Will this be sufficiently thick?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8250/8531362499_38c1d720e2.jpg

Hi David,

Just modded the sender for my build to fit it into the tank. My first question is....

How have you bolted/bonded the pump and sender unit to the tank?

and secondly.....

Surely if you earth the tank to the body when fuel causes a path of least resistance between the tank and the live wire in the tank the pump and/or sender will stop working and probably blow a fuse??

I was thinking about this this morning after reading up on fitting a metal fuel tank. Surely the tank needs to be isolated from the body altogether?

Confused!:confused:

Edit: I must be miss understanding something about vehicle electrics as surely even if the tank wasn't earth bonded to the chassis the pump and senders positive and return would short when wetted by fuel. I remember having the same thoughts when I replaced an in tank fuel pump and my old car. :confused:

Edit!!!!

Oh petrol in non conductive ! Well that explains a lot!! haha! I thought all liquids conducted electricity! Doh!

[alga]

Here is a picture of the earth bond I have added to my tank. I have used 17 amp wire. Will this be sufficiently thick?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8250/8531362499_38c1d720e2.jpg

More than enough. Fuel pump and sender probably have their own ground feeds, this one is just to prevent static buildup on the tank.

[Davidbolam]

Hi David,

Just modded the sender for my build to fit it into the tank. My first question is....

How have you bolted/bonded the pump and sender unit to the tank?

and secondly.....

Surely if you earth the tank to the body when fuel causes a path of least resistance between the tank and the live wire in the tank the pump and/or sender will stop working and probably blowing a fuse or worse causing a spark in the tank??

I was thinking about this this morning after reading up on fitting a metal fuel tank. Surely the tank needs to be isolated from the body altogether?

Confused!:confused:

To install the send i used m4 ultra low profile rivnuts. I then used the rubber gasket of the sender unit that is quite thick and lots of sealant. Robo recommended some sealant that was made by 3m and resistant to almost everything. The sides of the sender were ground away slightly with an angle grinder so that I could get a flush fit.

As far as the earth goes the sender has its own earth that runs back through the cars electrics however I added another one to satisfy my IVA. The fuel pump still works with the earth attached. I think the tank is negatively earthed on an mx5.

Let me know if you find out otherwise...... (in case I blow my garage up by mistake)

[Stot]

Surely if you earth the tank to the body when fuel causes a path of least resistance between the tank and the live wire in the tank the pump and/or sender will stop working and probably blow a fuse??

Petrol has very little electrical conductivity. Consider that the fuel level sender is offen a bare resistance coil dipped right in the petrol and it doesnt affect it. Also given that the fuel is wrapped up in metal, the fuel its self will never be the path of least resistance. AFAIK most fuel tanks are earthed.

edit: Found this in a Fire Brigade, Fire Safety leaflet.

Petrol Engined Vehicles
Gasoline vapours contained within the fuel tanks of road vehicles are generally too rich to ignite. However, there is a zone near the tank filler cap, which may be in the flammable range when the cap is removed. During fuelling, flammable atmospheres may exist externally around the filler orifice. Therefore the possibility of an ignition from electrostatic discharge has to be considered.
The flow rates and hose diameters used at service stations are usually small enough to ensure that dangerous levels of static charge are not built up in either the vehicle's fuel tank (provided the design is such that it is not highly insulated from the vehicle body) or on the surface of the filling hose. There is the possibility however that an insulated conductor involved in the operation, such as the filling nozzle, the vehicle itself, an insulated filler neck on the vehicle tank, or the person doing the filling, could accumulate a static charge. Any of these could produce a spark in the flammable zone around the filling inlet and cause an ignition.

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

Thanks for that david. And thanks for clearing up the question of petrol condutivity everyone! Haha.

[flyerncle]

Have seen films of petrol tanker explosion caused through static when I did an ADR course, Guy was blown from top of tanker when answering phone,a women slides across seat to get purse and touches nozzle and bang nice fire.

Moral of story,dont wear nylon and earth the tank.;)


Sender unit resistor is insulated from body of tank otherwise A,it would not work and B it would short and blow fuse.

[Eternal]

LOL thankd David you are my 200th sub on youtube! Will have to send you a Mars bar or something =P

[Davidbolam]

LOL thankd David you are my 200th sub on youtube! Will have to send you a Mars bar or something =P

I've also noticed a new roadster on there. its only been on for 2 weeks and is racing an m3 around a track. Looks like spuds car.

Does anyone know who's it is??
David

[mark]

Definitely spuds car

Seemed to be doing ok too, although the m3 seemed more interested in going sideways than fast :)

[flyerncle]

Had a ride in Spuds car at Teeside,well sorted and handy motor,defo better than beemer.:p

[Davidbolam]

Has anyone got an idea of how I can remove the old pipe from my exhaust. There is a rusty bit of 2 inch tube that has been forced inside the exhaust. .??....

Here is a photo. I have tried wacking it with a BIG hammer and a cold chisel. Now I just have 2 holes. I tried heating it on the cooker to expand it a little but it's stuck fast? Tried wd40 as well

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8240/8560015910_ab37165cf6.jpg

[Stot]

Could you drill holes through it so you can use a long piece of pipe as a tommy bar to try and twist and pull? Problem is holding the can tight enough without damaging it.

Cheers
Stot

[K4KEV]

I think I would be tempted to try rusty end squashed in a vice first and try to get some rotation out of it, failing that cut the rusty bit off just shy of the stainless and used a stout screwdriver to force the rusty bit to crumple inwards the only other way is to use a die grinder to grind a strip through inside of the old steel till you meet stainless then just rip it out .......a few methods there for you:D

[robo]

the only other way is to use a die grinder to grind a strip through inside of the old steel till you meet stainless then just rip it out .......a few methods there for you:D

Thats the way I would do it. Stainless and mild steel are not a good combo, to avoid damage its the only way. Another roadster getting very close to hitting the road. Looking good.:cool:

Bob

[Davidbolam]

Cheers everyone! I chopped it off and got my Dremel and trusty screwdriver out!

It is now out!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8560855624_5581d9a984.jpg

[Davidbolam]

Today I ran the engine for a good ten minutes to check for leaks. None that I could see. It didn't get hot enough for the fan to kick in but the t's and p's seemed to be ok. The only warning light I have is for the brakes (presumably as there is brake fluid in).

I plan on doing a bit more work tomorrow and maybe taking it for a bit of a spin (on the drive). I will make sure I record it and will put a link on here.

David

P.s I have installed the horns

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8532/8642960503_7bc2e2acca.jpg

[Davidbolam]

What is the minimum thickness of ally i could use on my tunnel sides? I was considering 1mm. Does this sound thick enough?

also... how have people panelled their chassis' on the drivers side next to the pedals? On my saturn chassis there is a metal plate on the side adjacent to the prop however I was think of putting the ally on the inside of the cockpit.

Have you all bent the panel to go from the inside to join up with the steel plate?

Any pitcure would br great as I don't want to have to redo this once it has been done (like everything else on the car lol)

Thanks

David

[twinturbo]

fairly sure I am on 1mm Ally.

The front steel section is on the outside face to give an extra 20mm of foot room.

TT

[Davidbolam]

fairly sure I am on 1mm Ally.

The front steel section is on the outside face to give an extra 20mm of foot room.

TT

Have you curved your panel to go from the inside to the outside where the panel is?

[twinturbo]

no, steel in the footwell and ally on the tunnel

TT

[Stot]

Any pitcure would br great as I don't want to have to redo this once it has been done (like everything else on the car lol)

I welded in the steel plate (CP17?) with the bend in it, then the ally can be rivited onto the bent bit. Gives you another 20mm in the footwell for your size nines..

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2a1kdeUNY8A/UZeyroPsQMI/AAAAAAAAFBI/j5PDoeiEqt0/s800/footwell1.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cTQzhnN7DNo/UZeyrnvCeII/AAAAAAAAFBE/ohVwX_jlmeY/s800/footwell2.JPG

HTH
Cheers
Stot

[twinturbo]

Actually yes it's like that IIRC.

[alga]

Yes, that's the standard book design.

I used 1 mm 1050A ally for the tunnel, side panels, bonnet and rear.

[Davidbolam]

its been a while since I updated my build. I seem to have been doing lots of little fiddly wiring jobs and nothing too exciting. I had a bit of spare aluminium that I decided to use to make a tunnel cover.

Here is how I did it.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3678/9180570383_634b8bb5f0.jpg

I stuck on a thin camping mat that I got in the sale from Argos for £3

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7433/9180572873_2d16ba1194.jpg

I then got my lovely wife to do some stitch detailing on some leatherette and stuck it over the top

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2836/9211997254_f39976f40b.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2871/9209209585_8d5980b0aa.jpg

I still need to make a gaiter to go around the handbrake and then back doing some oily jobs again.

[CTWV50]

Wow that looks ace!

[voucht]

Excellent David, looks very neat! I love it :)

[skov]

Nice work David, that looks sweet!
My wife refused to let my leatherette anywhere near her sewing machine!

[Dualist]

Thats looks well lush mate.

[Johno]

Nice one David,;)
It's a nice feeling adding finishing touches to the car especially after weeks of fiddling with Japanese coloured spaghetti stuffy....:eek:
Been there buddy, feel for you...;)

[Davidbolam]

Tonight I thought I would put a multimeter to the switches for the clutch and the brake lights.

It seems they are both push to break switches but the hydraulic ones are push to make.

how do I overcome this problem or am I reading this incorrectly?

Can you get push to break hydraulic switches?

thanks

David

[skov]

Tonight I thought I would put a multimeter to the switches for the clutch and the brake lights.

It seems they are both push to break switches but the hydraulic ones are push to make.

how do I overcome this problem or am I reading this incorrectly?

Can you get push to break hydraulic switches?

thanks

David

Hey David,
You're right that the OEM ones are push to break and the hydraulic are push to make, but it's not a problem.
In the MX5 the switches are pushed in by default, and released when you press the pedals, so they operate the opposite way round :)

[Davidbolam]

Fantastic thanks


David

[Davidbolam]

I spent a little more time on Sunday working on my car. My mate came around with his tig welder so managed to get the roll bar stays welded in.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2822/9289492563_2dcc7baefd.jpg

Now I just need to add a bit of paint.

I have also put in the passenger seat supports so I can bolt the seat in.


David

[CTWV50]

Looks good! That's how I will be bracing mine.:)

[Davidbolam]

Here are the brackets that have been shortened.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5534/9486895369_10f015cae3.jpg

[Stot]

Here are the brackets that have been shortened.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5534/9486895369_10f015cae3.jpg

And now I see my other post wasn't needed. :D

Cheers
Stot

[Davidbolam]

Ive just ordered my bodywork from AGM!!

All orange except the front cycle wings that will be black!!

AGM ar loking at making a aeroscreen with a section in the middle for the rear mirror similar to the Saturn one.

Roll on 2 weeks!!!

i have arranged to collect it in person to make sure there are no imperfections etc.

David

[K4KEV]

Nice one Dave ...you might have to be thinking of IVA soon or at least download the form.

[Davidbolam]

Nice one Dave ...you might have to be thinking of IVA soon or at least download the form.

I hope so Kev....

I am at the point where everything works. I Just need to attach it under the bodywork (and hide 2 miles of wire under the scuttle!!)

Im still trying to put off the water pump as the timing belt needs to come off. I think I will hire a trailer and get a garage to do that bit at the end. I can get it done all in for 200 quid by AK motorsports in rowlands gill. They also have lots of industrial estate roads nearby.(private) Handy for testing it.

I can also paint my garage while its away.

David.

ps I printed the forms for IVA out ages ago lol. Have you got your test date yet???

[Johno]

Wow....:D
Good choice on the AGM kit buddy... biased of course...:p
Looking forward to seeing it in orange and black(always a good match).

[Dualist]

Ive just ordered my bodywork from AGM!!

I've just checked out their site, that's defo what I'll be ordering later :)

[Davidbolam]

Wow....:D
Good choice on the AGM kit buddy... biased of course...:p
Looking forward to seeing it in orange and black(always a good match).

Johno

I asked him if he would look at making an aero screen that would be compatible with the agm kit. He said he is going to do this very soon. Similar to the Saturn one.

Not sure if yours has been sorted yet but could be worth a look.

Have you got your rear arches yet?

David

[alga]

I've been shopping around for a pair of rear arches. My mate with a Polish franchised Tiger has bulletproof GRP panels of about 4 mm thickness that have supported the weight of the whole car on the kerb once, and my flimsy NTS arches suffered quite a lot of damage from much less significant stresses, I've been asking various suppliers what weight of the laminate they use for the rear arches. Here's the result:

AGM: 1x600g
Gillham: 2x450g
Equinox: 2x600 (as indicated on their web site).

I've ordered from AGM nontheless, because of the fast turnaround, reasonable shipping cost, and the price which is roughly half of the price of competition. They should arrive at my home in a couple of days.

[Johno]

Johno

I asked him if he would look at making an aero screen that would be compatible with the agm kit. He said he is going to do this very soon. Similar to the Saturn one.

Not sure if yours has been sorted yet but could be worth a look.

Have you got your rear arches yet?

David

Hi David,
Yes I have my rear arches now (wife got them from Equinox for a surprise)..:D
With regards to the aeroscreen, PorkChop AKA Dave very kindly bought down his bubble aeroscreen made by Aerodynamix when he visited me.
I must say it was top notch quality (carbon) and seemed as though it would fit the AGM body kit.

[Davidbolam]

I have been wondering about how to make the cycle wing stays to fit the mx5 uprights for some time. I had a look at GBS, MNR and westfield's solution. From the pictures I could find the westfield ones seemed to be exactly what I was looking for. Before I attempted to copy their design I dropped a quick email to them on Wednesday night. I got a phone call back on Thursday at about 9.30am to say that he would do a pair for me. £36 each powder coated and could have them at donnington to collect on Sat or Sun.

I decided instead of trying to source materials, get my mate around with his welder and then send them to be powder coated I would buy them.

I collected them at the show. Russell the guy I was talking to showed me around the Honda version and pointed out what they had done with their MX5 cars.


Here is the end result. The only parts I have ever purchased for my build that didn't need any fettling or adjustment. they went straight on (5mins/side)!!

Before fitting..

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/9599538667_e2fc206276.jpg

After fitting...

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3709/9602778578_bb0d359e28.jpg

I also managed to get hold of a few odds and ends like black rivets along with a big roll of carpet (most awkward to carry lol).

There seemed to be a lot of seven type cars and i'm sure one of them was a Haynes roadster but I didn't recognise it from here.



David

[StruveD]

So are these only held in place by a single bolt? Or is there something i cant see here that keeps the the fenders moving front to back.

[Davidbolam]

So are these only held in place by a single bolt? Or is there something i cant see here that keeps the the fenders moving front to back.

They attach to the lower calliper mounting bolt and .the ball joint bolt

[johnl63]

ah so there are two tabs, one going at 90 degrees to the one we can see

[Davidbolam]

ah so there are two tabs, one going at 90 degrees to the one we can see

Where abouts in NZ are you from?

David

[johnl63]

from and still in Rotorua

[Davidbolam]

I have bought some 2 inch exhaust pipe that slots together. What size of clamp do I need to join this. Ie how are the clamps measured? Diameter or circumference? I'm confused.

David

[flyerncle]

GSF do a sleeve for VW AUDI that will clamp over the pipe and is neat.

2985911 is number,measure od of pipe

[Johno]

Hi David,:)
Most clamps for pipe are measured in diameter.
Normally they specify a range between two diameters for example 35-42mm clamping range.
Have you picked up your bodywork yet?:D

[Davidbolam]

Hi David,:)
Most clamps for pipe are measured in diameter.
Normally they specify a range between two diameters for example 35-42mm clamping range.
Have you picked up your bodywork yet?:D

Not yet. I am hoping to get an email soon. I am off next Friday so will ry and collect it then.

I managed to sort out the clips last night and I have also bought some exhaust bends. I will try and fabricate that before I get the bodywork.

I'm also working on the interior panelling and trimming the carpet to size as I can see this being a right pain once the bodykit is in place.

David

[Davidbolam]

GSF do a sleeve for VW AUDI that will clamp over the pipe and is neat.

2985911 is number,measure od of pipe

Thanks

David

[Davidbolam]

I've done a bit of trial fitting with my new body panels..

Here are some photos

Side panel

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5494/9696681688_7010659b5a.jpg


Back panel and scuttle

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3724/9693457433_05f0fd1858.jpg

What the engine bay will look

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3724/9693462521_c50ef44028.jpg

[Davidbolam]

It almost starting to look like a car!!

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5348/9712977078_0194f0b287.jpg

[CTWV50]

Looking good! Mines still upside down. Any tips or advise for me?

[Davidbolam]

Looking good! Mines still upside down. Any tips or advise for me?

I think I'm going to have to buy more clamps and will defo need more than one set of eyes when it comes to aligning ang riveting the panels.

I'm not 100 percent how to mount the rear panel. I was expecting the back edge to join against the metal bar that runs alongside the tank. There is a good 5" of clearance so I may just have o attach it at the sides or make up some brackets.

David

[CTWV50]

Yes I feel a little overwelmed by the task of making this all fit. With regard to the rear panel I'm just using the sides for support and hope that the rear wings help support the rear panel.

[Davidbolam]

Yes I feel a little overwelmed by the task of making this all fit. With regard to the rear panel I'm just using the sides for support and hope that the rear wings help support the rear panel.

I may also put a bit of ally sheet underneath to stop it acting like an air brake. This may make it a bit stronger.

Did Alan tell you about his dash and aero screen designs?


David

[CTWV50]

I may also put a bit of ally sheet underneath to stop it acting like an air brake. This may make it a bit stronger.

Did Alan tell you about his dash and aero screen designs?


David

No, I was going to ask about an aero now I realise the saturn one I have won't fit. I could shorten the saturn one so it fits but I think I'll go with Alan's. What's the dash going to be like? Will it have an IVA radius built in?

[Davidbolam]

No, I was going to ask about an aero now I realise the saturn one I have won't fit. I could shorten the saturn one so it fits but I think I'll go with Alan's. What's the dash going to be like? Will it have an IVA radius built in?

He was looking at making one that fits the upper shape with a taper so no rubber trim is needed and flat along the bottom with the iva radius. I dont want to cover the dash just want it plain grp in black so was happy to hear this

David

[CTWV50]

I dont want to cover the dash just want it plain grp in black so was happy to hear this

David

Same here. Is he actually going to do it do you think or was he just thinking about it.

[Davidbolam]

he is going to do it just neds to find the time.

Did you see the buck he was making for the F1 stlye car?

David

[CTWV50]

he is going to do it just neds to find the time.

Did you see the buck he was making for the F1 stlye car?

David

No I didn't venture upstairs, too paranoid about the health risks of fibreglass dust. Any idea on price?

[jps]

he is going to do it just neds to find the time.

Did you see the buck he was making for the F1 stlye car?

David

I think he makes the bodywork for Furore - the road going 'F1 replica' cars... Wouldn't want one personally - but impressive that they get through IVA - there hope for us all yet!

http://www.furorecars.co.uk/

[CTWV50]

I think he makes the bodywork for Furore - the road going 'F1 replica' cars... Wouldn't want one personally - but impressive that they get through IVA - there hope for us all yet!

http://www.furorecars.co.uk/

I thought he did someone mentioned it on here before. I'm wondering how much this dash and aero will be though.

[Johno]

He was looking at making one that fits the upper shape with a taper so no rubber trim is needed and flat along the bottom with the iva radius. I dont want to cover the dash just want it plain grp in black so was happy to hear this

David

Hi David,
I remember when I collected my kit over a year ago he was on about a dash then. I guess it's just a matter of finding time to do it.
I bet a big grin was on your face when you put body kit on your chassis...:D
I found it fiddly lining the panels up with all the returned edges but it was worth it in the end..

[Davidbolam]

I received my letter back from mazda uk this morning. It confirms that the engine I have was in the car at the time of manufacture in 91 so no cat is required!! That's saved a potential headache if sorting out a cat etc.

I've also just bought a whole load of bits off the web so will hopefully get some time to fit them soon.

Pictures to follow asap!!

David

[Davidbolam]

I ordered a set of carbon fibre stoneguards off ebay (via a large kit car supplier) only to have black grp ones delivered. Obviously a bit of a mix up but the quality of what came through was not very good. They had been chopped from a flat sheet. All around the edge were gel coat cracks and chips.

Now waiting on other stuff to turn up to get on with my build.

The postman seems to have an inability to knock on my front door or try a neighbour before taking the stuff to the local sorting office!

David

[Davidbolam]

I ordered a set of carbon fibre stoneguards off ebay (via a large kit car supplier) only to have black grp ones delivered. Obviously a bit of a mix up but the quality of what came through was not very good. They had been chopped from a flat sheet. All around the edge were gel coat cracks and chips.

Now waiting on other stuff to turn up to get on with my build.

The postman seems to have an inability to knock on my front door or try a neighbour before taking the stuff to the local sorting office!

David

Well I got through the correct Carbon fibre guards. I must say im still not impressed with the quality. They have both been cut out with a stanley knife. 1 has square corners and the other rounded. They have also slipped with a knife and damaged part of the area you can see.

I also ordered a map pocket off ebay that turned out to be bent and rubbish.....

aghhhh

David

[voucht]

I ordered a set of carbon fibre stoneguards off ebay (via a large kit car supplier)

Hi David,
Perhaps you can tell us who it is, so no one falls in the trap again, as it looks really crappy.

Thanks :)

[Davidbolam]

Well it seems like ages since I have updated my build thread. I have managed to align all of my body panels and have temporarily riveted them in place. I still need to get my mate to finish off the welding of the exhaust and also weld in the vin plate.

HUGE thanks to kev (k4kev) for helping me to put a radiused edge on the end of my silencer. I got to have a good look at his build so this gave me a bit more motivation to go and do more work on my car! I must admit though I am very jealous of his build facilities. His garage is a bit bigger than mine!

I think once the vin and exhaust are done everything should come together really quickly. I was really daunted by the prospect of looking at the rear electrics but when I actually looked at it and got my multimeter out this was very easy. I've managed to end up with only about 6 wires and had thought there was a bout 20.

I have trimmed the carbon fibre stoneguards that came from kitpartsdirect as they were a bit too large. These now have nice straight and delamination free edges. ( did this with a pair of kitchen scissors)

I have ordered all the materials to build my dash. I'm going to use 2mm aluminium and radius the bottom around a broom handle or something. To start with I am going to use the existing clocks from the mx5 and put it in place book spec. Ie put it behind a sheet of Perspex.

I have also picked up one of these from ebay which I thought looked ok

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5472/10426467636_6e4cbb8b60.jpg

[Johno]

Hi David...:)
Nice to hear you are still cracking on with the olde girl...;)
I ended up running a seven core cable down the tunnel for my rear lights and some single core cables in split conduit for the fuel pump and sender.
So how did the AGM bodykit line up in the end.. I had fun (twisted) trying to align the bonnet/scuttle and nose cone with my ally side panels...LOL
Most importantly though David is WHERE ARE THE PHOTOS...:D

I must say I do like that key ring buddy....

[Davidbolam]

Hi David...:)
Nice to hear you are still cracking on with the olde girl...;)
I ended up running a seven core cable down the tunnel for my rear lights and some single core cables in split conduit for the fuel pump and sender.
So how did the AGM bodykit line up in the end.. I had fun (twisted) trying to align the bonnet/scuttle and nose cone with my ally side panels...LOL
Most importantly though David is WHERE ARE THE PHOTOS...:D

I must say I do like that key ring buddy....

I think the bodywork has all lined up ok. The scuttle to bonnet join was the hardest bit to get right. I won't know for sure until everything is fastened down for the last time.

As for photos everything is too messy at the moment. The garage is full of bubble wrap and orange dust! I will take some ASAP and post them on here.

David

[Davidbolam]

Here is what I've done with 4 of the badges. I have removed the Mazda stickers and replaced them with haynes R ones.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2874/10525499153_6e6e5d8fb7.jpg

They still need a bit of cleaning but should look ok

David

[rpjg1975]

They look spot on David, should add a little extra something to finish off your build

Russ

[Dualist]

They look sweet :)

[Davidbolam]

I eventually got my exhaust system finished tonight. I had to take off the side panel which felt like a backwards step but I'm now really pleased with the result. I've just been waiting for my mate to come around And weld it all up with his tig set. 2 inch stainless - now it just needs a good polish.

What I am really pleased with is the noise. It's not too loud but very deep sounding with a nice rasp. Hopefully will not sound like a max power car when it on the road.

Johno I promise I will put some more pictures up soon along with a video link.

David

[Davidbolam]

Here Is a photo of my exhaust system all fitted. Just needs a good polish. I've ordered the stuff off the net and once again my postman hasn't tried very hard to deliver the parcel.. Just one of those cards!


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7337/10806891334_265ffc8020.jpg


I'm really happy with the hole in the side for the exhaust

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/10806766655_7afd5da925.jpg

Here is the photo of the end kev (k4kev)sorted for me by braising on a radius

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5545/10806913044_7fa004b88d.jpg

I have also fitted my rear lights. Still need to sort out the angles so they are vertical

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7335/10806735975_1de5119993.jpg


David

[Davidbolam]

I've been out in the garage again. At the moment it feels like my build is going together really well.

Here is a picture of the steering column cover I have made out of some spare aluminium. I have also mounted the engine bay fuse box.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3826/10843933805_8dbc20ba09.jpg

David

[twinturbo]

Are the lights high enough, look a tad lower than normal

[Davidbolam]

Are the lights high enough, look a tad lower than normal

Yes they are well over the minimum height. The fog and reverse lights only need to be 250mm

David

[Davidbolam]

The next item I have attached to my build is the coolant header tank.

Here is a photo where you can see it mounted. I still need to fix the small tube in place somehow ( may replace this with solid pipe.)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3666/11000083833_dc6ce32135.jpg

I've been working on my dash as well I'm not going to post a photo of this until its done but here's a photo of my universal radius tool! Almost managed to get the radius large enough so I'm going to have to pad the lower portion of the dash.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3721/10964306293_c6ac36a53c.jpg

I've also started cutting the ally for the inner side panels which I am going to cover in leatherette

I've also had the car fully up to temp and made sure the fan kicks in etc. all seemed to go well. Even had another quick drive which was fun! Must bleed my brakes properly.



David

[K4KEV]

Won' be long now for an IVA now Davey.....way to go bud keep pluggin

[vmax1974]

Looking good david iva next week is it

I Gotta think about starting my build again

[Davidbolam]

I've finally managed to attach my bonnet. I lined it up with gaffa tape to make sure it was held in place. I then made an aluminium template to help make sure I drilled the holes in the correct place.


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/11276039424_ae6a13f874.jpg

I've now added my iva friendly bonnet catches

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5524/11275998296_7ae2c52986.jpg

I've also finally installed my rear arches

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3674/11275990906_f2f4c105ae.jpg

I'm now ready to put the interior in .ie carpet etc. here is one of the panels I have made.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/11276018106_621fc9a84b.jpg

I will put some more photos up soon

David

[flyerncle]

Carpet ! You will be fitting a heater next.:p

Seriously,were your panels from Ghillam ?

[Davidbolam]

Carpet ! You will be fitting a heater next.:p

Seriously,were your panels from Ghillam ?

The panels came from AGM. haha I might fit a heater!

[jason 82]

I have the gillham bodykit. I am really chuffed with it, just make sure that you get the bonnet with the large scoop, I know that it's more expensive, but it gives a little more room above the engine, & looks smart. I have opened up the bonnet vent and meshed it off to help cooling. :D

[Davidbolam]

I have the gillham bodykit. I am really chuffed with it, just make sure that you get the bonnet with the large scoop, I know that it's more expensive, but it gives a little more room above the engine, & looks smart. I have opened up the bonnet vent and meshed it off to help cooling. :D

Mine fitted (agm) just without a scoop

David

[Davidbolam]

Tonight I finished off my interior sort of...

All the carpets are in, the side panels that I covered in leatherette are in and I have also put in the kick strips on the sills and along the rear of aft bulkhead. I am really pleased with how it looks. I did try fitting a map pocket that I purchased from ebay buy this turned out to be the biggest heat of sh*t when I went to fix it and now in the bin.

I still haven't put the steering column cover on as this can only go on once the dash has been re-fitted. This is something that I am going to do once I have finished my dash surround.

Here is a photo. It quite hard to make everything out as its all black...

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/11358849824_db99f70ab2.jpg

Ps I've also got a nicer steering wheel to go on at the last minute as well

[flyerncle]

If you do fit the heater you will be surprised how effective it will be at keeping the lower half of you warm !:p

[CTWV50]

Tonight I finished off my interior sort of...

All the carpets are in, the side panels that I covered in leatherette are in and I have also put in the kick strips on the sills and along the rear of aft bulkhead. I am really pleased with how it looks. I did try fitting a map pocket that I purchased from ebay buy this turned out to be the biggest heat of sh*t when I went to fix it and now in the bin.

I still haven't put the steering column cover on as this can only go on once the dash has been re-fitted. This is something that I am going to do once I have finished my dash surround.

Here is a photo. It quite hard to make everything out as its all black...

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/11358849824_db99f70ab2.jpg

Ps I've also got a nicer steering wheel to go on at the last minute as well

Looks great, well done Dave!

[Davidbolam]

Looks great, well done Dave!

Thanks,

How is yours coming along?

I am thinking about going for some westfield front cycle wings instead of using the agm ones. I think my tyres are too thin for them to look any good

David

[CTWV50]

Thanks,

How is yours coming along?

It isn't at the moment. Just a chassis with pedal box and fuel/brake pipes. I'll get Christmas out the way and get back to it in the new year.

I am thinking about going for some westfield front cycle wings instead of using the agm ones. I think my tyres are too thin for them to look any good

David

Yes they are rather large aren't they, they look ok with my wider wheels though!:)

[Davidbolam]

I've finally mounted the grill inside the nose and made my indicator extensions.

Here is a photo. I made the extension using a bit of old tent pole from a friendly neighbour who is building an ac cobra replica.

I secured the grill using industrial epoxy resin from east coast composites.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5498/11870383495_e86dc63608_c.jpg

I have also had some vinyl stripes delivered so they will go on the car as soon as we have a warm day!

I'm still wondering what to do about my shortened handbrake cable

David

[CTWV50]

OMG vinyl stripes! That's "nearly finished" type stuff! :) I started back again with mine after new year, and have been thinking about grill mesh and front indicators. Does the mesh have to be automotive specific or not. Where did you get yours' from?

Indicators and mesh look good.:cool:

[twinturbo]

I have some black metal tube from a standard lamp we got as a wedding present ( but was falling appart ) to use as my indicator tube.

Got some mesh free, an ex-colleauge and freind whos parents now live across the road found it unused and as said freind now lives in Vienna they gave it to me :) when clearing his stuff out ;)

I may make a bit more progress. over the comming months ( Possibly )



Nose looks spot on Dave..

TT

[flyerncle]

Opinion ? is there any reason pre IVA not to fit them under the headlight by some means as opposed to the extension on the nosecone.