Removing Redundant Wires

[brainbug007]

Now that I've got my engine running I've started on removing all the redunant wires from the loom. What should I do with the wires that go from the original ecu to the edis? Will these just get plugged into the megajolt and don't need moving from the edis pins or will it be different pins for the edis to megajolt and they just need removing for now? I also found that I have to wires coming from the instrument cluster connection that just went to plugs which had nothing plugged into them on my loom. Any ideas what these would be for? I'm thinking one or both could the the rev counter as my original cluster didn't have a rev counter.

[davedew]

The only wires that go from the EDIS to the megajolt are the PIP & SAW wires. It will be a shield twin core cable that originally went to the ECU.

If you are planning on having the hard cut rev limiter installed in your megajolt, the EDIS will also have to get it's power from the megajolt.

Is one of the wires from your instrument cluster green? If so it would be for the rev counter you didn't to begin with. Has your EDIS plug got a green wire coming out of it? If not you will have to run the rev counter from megajolt.

[twinturbo]

Cut the saw/pip at the ecu end so that they are there for when you connect up the jolt.

What are the two colours of the wires on the dash?

TT

[twinturbo]

Just so you know..

When you have the jolt, you will have to match teh revcounter output to the dash. The dash should be marked 2 , 4 , 6 or C ( may be another one on oil burners but never seen one )

2 = 4 cylinder wasted spark ( what you have)
4 = 4 cylinder distributor
6 = 6 cylinder distributor
c = cosworth.

Hopefuly you have a 4 or 2 as that will be simplest.

TT

[brainbug007]

Ok I'm pretty sure I know which wires you mean when you say pip & saw. I remember 2 of them being much thicker and it looked like they had a black covering on them.

I'll have to check the dash for which marking it has, where will it be written? I think it'll be a 4 as I'm pretty sure it's off a carbed cvh (it's handy andy's old one) where as my original would have been a 2 I guess but with no rev counter. I'm also pretty sure the 2 spare wires I have going off the dash are green possibly stripped with another color like brown or yellow. I'll check tonight though and what pin they're going into which might help id them.

I was planning on running the rev counter off the megajolt as normally doesn't the rev counter run off the coil and my coil won't have the connection with the original donor not having a rev counter?

I was also going to get the hard rev limiter with my jolt as apparently it makes the cutout alot smother than just using the software based one. But I guess swapping the power wire for the edis over to the jolt later won't be too difficult.

I also want to put one of the wideband lamda's in to hopefully make tunning it a bit easier, is there anything else I need to be aware of at this stage for that?

[mark]

On my original cvh setup with sierra clocks the rev counter wouldnt work from the megajolt or edis and would only read approx half or less

You buy a tacho driver from trigger wheels and run it from the coilpack and that sorts it

As tt said though may not need it depending on dash, but i did

So just be aware of this when you have the rev counter wired up that it may be under reading whilst your revving the tits off it thinking this is loud for 3500rpm :D

[twinturbo]

One of the pins on the EDIS will be disconnected, that is the rev counter output. All EDIS have it, just some don't have the wire.

TT

[brainbug007]

Ok I had a quick look this morning. The two wires on the dash are brown/yellow and brown/green and sit about 1/2 way along the plug. The brown/yellow goes into a pin that has another brown/yellow as well (eg 2 wires into the same pin). There aren't any pins on the plug that don't have a wire. I did forget to check for the 2,4,c number so I'll check that tonight.

I also checked the edis, and again I don't have any pins which don't have a wire. If the rev counter would normally run off the edis (I think you said it was a green wire?) I guess I just need to trace where all the wires are going and just move/bypass something to complete the circut between the edis and the dash?

[brainbug007]

Ok so I traced the green wire from the edis which should be the rev counter wire and it goes to one of the multiplugs by the battery. There's no green wire coming out the other side of the plug on the corresponding pin, but the pin next to it has no wire coming in but a black/green going out? Can wires go in one pin and come out another with these sorts of plugs?

[twinturbo]

should be green pin on the 6 pin multiplug, and passes straight through on green.

Brown/green is usualy oil preasure.
Brown/yellow brake fluid and handbrake

TT

[brainbug007]

Ok cool so in theory I can just cut it off at the mutliplug end and then put that into the instrument cluster. Is there a trick to getting wires out of the insturment cluster plug without breaking or damaging it?

[robo]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DURITE-TERMINAL-CONNECTOR-DE-MOUNTING-TOOL-0-703-99-/310042562781?pt=UK_Computing_NetworkingTools_Acces sories_SM&hash=item482ffa10dd

http://www.vehicleservicepros.com/product/10100021/6-piece-terminal-release-tool-set-no-sgtt106a

Bob

[brainbug007]

Thanks robo, after seeing what kind of tool is used I had a dig round my toolbox and found some small pick/hook like things which seem to do the trick :)

So I've now removed all the redundant stuff I think. All the ecu, sensors, heater, windscreen wiper/washer, interior lights, heated mirror & rear windscreen, and stereo wires are all cut off. I also took out the engine management and power delay relays and their wiring. The engine still starts up fine but I seem to have lost my dash somehow. The dash illumination still comes on via the stalk but none of the warning lights or gauges move now when the key goes to position 2/3. I left fuse 10 in which looks to power the dash (red wire) but not according to the attached image I found (no red wire?). I've left the common feed from the battery (blue/red wire) that connects to fuse 9, although I have removed the fuse itself and the other fuse 9 red wire that went off to the kickdown relay (I didn't have the relay itself but all the wires where there). So I would have thought the dash was still getting power via the common fuse 9 to 10 connection? Any other ideas where I might have taken something out that the dash needed to light up? It's currently earthed on the back of the head and was working fine there until I started removing wires :confused:

[brainbug007]

No suggestions anyone?