pedal construction

[Toyotus]

So I can't start my build log yet, as I'm waiting until I sell my truck to fund the "locost" project. (Wife says one project @ a time, can you believe that!?) So I decided to wittle at the things I can do for free, lots of free material @ my work, but no square tubing : ( So I bent the main roll bar hoop but its not nearly as good as I hoped, so I'm doing that later!

Anyway, I started cutting out the gas and clutch pedals with the plasma, and already started deviating from the book. First, my clutch will be hydraulic, so I left the bottom cable tang off the clutch, so I could mount the push rod clevis up on pedal. Sorry if I'm being vague,but I'm typing from my Droid and I just burned my left thumb so its slow going!

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325662998254.jpg
Basic clutch pedal

And also I had to enlarge the diameter of the round section due to me only having some 25mm/1inch tube not 22mm.

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663043579.jpg

Here's the gas/accelerator. Notice how sharp the pedal face bend is, (that was not intended!)

Now the 25mm/1inch tube I scrounged was also galv. So PLEASE WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR WHEN WELDING!

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663084392.jpg

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663190667.jpg

Notice the "purdy yellow coloring!"

I also reinforced the pedals, those pictures later. Let me know what you think, and if I'm doing something "deathly wrong"! Thanks in advance for all input

[vmax1974]

Am sure someone will come along soon to put me right but what thickness steel did you use as the 3mm in the book is generally considered too flimsy and could bend when you stand on clutch and brake pedals I think most use 6mm plate to counteract this weekness someone please confirm my thoughts on this

[AshG]

yep you want to make the clutch pedal out of 5mm. my 3mm one bent as did adrians and andy's

[ozzy1]

Right dont take this the wrong way.:) Have you done some welds and tested their strength as they look a bit "shit".Thats not to say that a pretty weld is strong as i have seen plenty of "gorilla" welds as we call them(strong but Fu***ng ugly!) on the mine where i work.

[flyerncle]

He did mention "galv" pipe,that's why it looks f,ugly weld.

[ozzy1]

I understand that but we weld galv pipe all the time and you wouldnt really tell the difference between that and normal steel when we(not me) weld it.Was just a point of view and suggestion and not meant to be derogatory.

[Toyotus]

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663331186.jpg
Here's what I used for bushings, (a 4x4 post of nylon!) I cut a cross section at 1 3/16"(30mm) then took "core samples" with 1" (25mm) hole saw
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663229266.jpg
I can't find a collar/sleeve to act as a crush tube so ill just let it ride on the 1/4'' bolt,(6mm?) I may drill and tape bushing (bush? LOL) tubes for a grease zirk
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663370220.jpg
Here's with bushing installed. Went in alittle easy, if the bushing is spinning in tube, I may have to add some welds inside for grip. I saw someone (don't remember who, sorry) but they welded round bar stock on the front for stregth, I didn't like the look of that, and thought this would look better.....now I'm thinking the best way would be either add the plate or bar to back of pedals, leaving a slim profile in front.. of course it would need notched for clevis/cable clearance that way. I will quote Jack from Kinetic Vehicles, (who makes cast aluminum ones for 30/each, only 3hr drive from me!) When he said: "I'm not much of a bling guy, and its dark down there in the drivers footwell, so I don't much car!" Sorry for quoting you Jack, if your on here!

[Toyotus]

Thank you for comments and concerns, sorry I failed to mention I've been converting everything to SAE, and using 1/8" plate and will use 3/16" for brake pedal. (3mm and 5mm). As I mentioned before, I HAVE reinforced my pedals, As I figured with some of these nightmare stories of bent pedals, and since it would melt bushings if I decided to do it later. I'm not going to test for strength, but I know I got good enough penetration, that they will be strong enough for even my "frantic clutch kicks"!

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663272362.jpg
Here's the "spine" of 1/8" plate I welded down the outside of each pedal, sorry for 5mp droid pics!

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663294346.jpg
IIRC the "height" of these plates was approx. 3/8" to 7/16". And length of 5" on clutch and 5 3/4" on gas(please don't ask to convert) why can't I find a metric tape measure?

[Toyotus]

Here they are painted:
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663406160.jpg
Gloss black sure makes those "gorilla welds" look better!

Oh, and where gloves when grinding, so you don't "clean your cuticles" with a grinder wheel!
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325663426802.jpg
Or maybe I'm flipping off whoever said my welds "looked like shite"! Lol

[robo]

He did mention "galv" pipe,that's why it looks f,ugly weld.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder:eek: , Kin ell. Turn up the amps or slow down the wire.

Bob

[Toyotus]

Ya it definitely didn't like welding the galvenized pipe, especially since I didn't grind any off at all. The wire would just push against the surface for a milisecond before arcing,(almost like faulty ground, but it wasn't) just enough that the wire would heat up and break further up, even on higher voltage. The way that worked best was to begin the weld somewhere down on the 1/8th inch plate, then work up to the pipe. Unfortunately this added much more weld overall than I would like.

[Johno]

Hi there,
I believe it was me who added round bar to the front of the pedals for strength.:rolleyes: Used round bar as it is stronger than flat with better looks (in my opinion).
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/MX5%20Build/Pedal%20Box%20and%20Components/10122011303.jpg
Like somebody said "beauty is in the eye of the beholder"
I wouldn't weld anything to the back of the pedals espicially on MX5 build as both the clutch and brake pedal require a clevis for the master cylinders.
Good luck with your buid Johno......

[robo]

Thats more like it.:)

Bob

[Toyotus]

Like I said, I meant no offense, but obviously we're on the same page about the bar on the back. I'm not sure why I noticed the reason for the bar in front being that on the back would interfere with the clevis's, then immediately welded plates that will interfere with them!

Anyway as someone else stated, the way to go would be to just build them all from 3/16ths. (5mm). Hindsight......well you know.

Well I also got much better @ welding galvenized! : P
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325919857650.jpg
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325919722269.jpg
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325919879566.jpg
Also was nice change back to heavy plate!(I'm a heavy truck mechanic/fabricator)
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz138/ae86gtsr5/Mobile%20Uploads/PART_1325919900856.jpg
All painted up with bushing installed. We'll see how paint holds up to Oregon coast, its Valspar Tractor Emplement paint.

[Johno]

Hi,
No offence taken just pointing out it was me....:) ......
The problem I had with the pedals is I got the pedals laser cut before I researched here on the forum about upping the the thickness...:confused:
The reason I choose to modify the pedals instead of getting thicker ones was there a four of us building and I got four sets laser cut.....dammmmmnnnn.
I looked at a few options such as flat bar, tube and then decided to weld solid 8mm to the front of the pedals which makes them very stiff and has less impact on any other parts in that area.

Look forward to seeing some more pics of your build..Johno:)

http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/MX5%20Build/

[Toyotus]

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/404634_317864561584906_100000840958748_878367_1022 894797_n.jpg
Here is the pedal base/box with all tabs welded on and painted. Leaving all holes undrilled until I'm ready to mount master cylinders/cable guide, ect. I had a hard time finding a sleeve for the pivot bolts. Finally found exactly what I needed in stainless, for $5.49/ft.! Luckily that did all three bushings and a castor wheel for my creeper!
I actually drilled and tapped and installed some 5/32 grease zirks too, as I still perfer the idea of the nylon riding on the bolt, instead of metal on metal, might as well just use a solid 1" (25mm) spacer drilled for the pivot bolt. Either way, I suppose this will be longer lasting this way.