Rivetting Fuel Sender?

[skov]

I've got an ali fuel tank and a universal fuel sender and I'm wondering how I should mate the two together.
I was going to drill and tap some holes in the tank and use screws to hold the sender on, but I'm not sure the walls of the tank are thick enough.
Is there any reason I can't/shouldn't rivet just the sender on instead?

Whilst I'm at it, the sender came with a rubber gasket - should I be using any sealant in addition to that?

[old_bill]

I think riv nuts is the best way to go. That we you can remove it without having to drill out the rivets.

[Bonzo]

If you are concerned about the tanks thickness you could always try using some captive fixings similar to these :)

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/Captivefixings.jpg

Here's an ebay listing for the ones pictured.

Captive fixings & screws (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAPTIVE-NUTS-SCREW-/110797858541?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19cc1126ed)

There is a large range of sizes & types available.

Dare say the donor car had a fair few ;) :)

The rubber should seal on its own if thick enough, bit of sealant wouldn't hurt, so long as it is fuel resistant & you don't get any in the tank.

[robo]

Either of the above but the rivet is a no because if you need to change it all the crap from drilling the old ones will end up inside the tank.

Bob

[skov]

Thanks guys, in hindsight it does seem like a bit of a bad idea.
I think I may have been getting a bit carried away with the rivet gun lately. Note to oneself: Not all problems in life can be fixed with rivets :)

I've just been digging around the tool cupboards at work and found a rivnut set, so I might just borrow that one evening.
Will IVA man be happy if I use a riv nut to attach the tank's earth strap too?

[K4KEV]

Hi John....since I am familiar with your tank:D thought I would let you know how I will be doing it
Mark out holes as per sender/rubber gasket then using a suitable tap that suits whatever bolts you wish to use ...eg 5mm hole for 6mm tap then take your bolts
(I'm going to use stainless) and do one of two things you can either cut a slot in the thread end of the bolt to accept a screwdriver or file two flats to be gripped by a mole wrench or adjustable spanner.....now with a dab of blue holymar (petrol resistant) on the underside of the bolt head, proceed to screw the bolts up from the INSIDE of the tank to a LITTLE past hand tight. Now when you come to mount the sender use either the screwdriver or a set of mole grips depending on how you prepped the the bolt ends (after you have put a nut on of course) to hold the bolt while you nip up the nuts they do not have to be very tight to give a good seal......job done;)

[skov]

Hey Kev, that sounds like a great idea!
And I probably would have done that if I hadn't just come back in from the garage after fitting a load of riv nuts to my tank :rolleyes:
Thanks though :D

[snapper]

They'll spin when you come to take them off.
Riv nuts work well
As tanks are either thin steel or thin soft ally a load spreading collar on top of the sender spreads the clamping force evenly.
Sealant is not usually needed but if you do it has to be petrol resistant.
Sikaflex or Tigerseal is not and will drop into your tank and block up pipes, filters and pumps.
Gues how I know that?

[K4KEV]

They'll spin when you come to take them off.
Riv nuts work well
As tanks are either thin steel or thin soft ally a load spreading collar on top of the sender spreads the clamping force evenly.
Sealant is not usually needed but if you do it has to be petrol resistant.
Sikaflex or Tigerseal is not and will drop into your tank and block up pipes, filters and pumps.
Gues how I know that?

If you are refering to my method then it is obvious to undo them the same way as they were tightened therefor they would not spin

[tex]

If you are refering to my method then it is obvious to undo them the same way as they were tightened therefor they would not spin

you need to use nitrile rubber to make a gasket from a gasket supplier - there will be one local to you in the yellow pages. only nitrile rubber is truly petrol proof and not resistant.

the fixings - use countersunk rivnuts - using normal rivnuts leaves the head proud which gets in the way of the face to which you want a seal. the countersunk ones sit flush M6 will do fine with stainless bolts. make sure that all seals mating faces have very very clean faces with no deep scratches - petrol will find a way along it sooner or later.

but please do not use any sealant - it will come loose and drop in the tank - then block your fuel lines and filters - usually while your out.. :eek:

[mark]

I welded a piece of 3mm on the top of the tank where the sender goes and drilled and tapped it