Motorbike Chain Adjustment

[brainbug007]

I'm trying to adjust the chain on my motorbike following the haynes manual for it and I'm just wondering if anyone else on here has done the same on their bikes? Problem is the chain is much tighter on one section than the rest and when I get the tight section to the right free play amount, the rest of the chain seems mega loose by comparison as it's somewhere around 2-3 times the free play amount. Is that normal or is the chain basically knackered? It's only a year old as well..

[flyerncle]

If you can lift the links from the rear sprocket when it's tight ,chain/sprocket is knackered.

Make sure the links are not siezed somewhere.

[ayjay]

It doesnt take long to ruin a bike chain. A couple of trips on a salty road without follow up maintenance should finish one off.Dont ask me how i know .:o

If you lift the back end up on a paddock stand and spin the wheel slowly by hand you should see the lower part of the chain completely loose and floppy as it moves .if you see any kinks or hear clicks as it runs over the front sprocket then its goodbye Mr chips .Check the front sprocket as well --a worn one will damage your new chain fairly quickly.

[brainbug007]

Ok sounds like it's knackered then along with the front sprocket as it definately makes a clicking noise at the front when you spin the back wheel by hand slowly. It also seems to make a sort of rasping sound when driving it past something like a wall that bounces the sound back :(

[ozzy1]

Always best practice to put new sprockets on with a new chain.

[brainbug007]

I can imagine. Bit annoying though really it's failed after only a year, they must fit well cheap and nasty ones :(

[ayjay]

my first bike(1966) never saw a drop of oil near the chain the whole time I had it. Never had a problem.
Fast forward 46 yrs :eek: Regular maintenance modern materials and seal technology I may get 2yrs.

Difference-----1957 Villiers 197cc 2stroke ---not many BHP:o
2002 Kawasaki ZX6R--------150BHP:D

They have to take a lot of hammer

[robo]

Come on ajay you must remember the big tin of chain grease that went on the cooker to boil the chain in;)

[Jimmyd]

A bike chain will always have a tight spot which you need to find first and adjust from there. I personally prefer to have a chain to slack rather than to tight. Provided it isn't that slack that it can jump teeth its fine. People find it hard to believe but my 1000cc V Twin has over 20k on the chain but a do use a Scot Oiler and clean regular. It's a pity my rear tyres only last 1200 miles.

J

[ayjay]

Cant be doing with all that oil being flung all over my lovely clean ally wheel:)
Never boiled a chain in my life.Only the odd engine:o
I agree with the better slacker than tighter bit.

[baz-r]

Scotoilers are a god send no more regular ajusting and will pay for It's self menu times over.
Set the flow correctly and the mess is minimal and it cleans of way easyer than mst chain lubes

[brainbug007]

Nice one thanks for the info guys. Been looking around fleabay for a replacement as they seem to a bit cheaper there. Is it worth paying a bit more for one of the "extreme" upgrade ones (eg gold chain etc).

Also looking at the haynes manual I'm a bit confused. It states that the rear sprocket should have 45 teeth but most of the kits i've seen for my model/year are 43 teeth? Is it possible the haynes manual is wrong? I'm gonna count the teeth on my current sprocket to be sure but I was curious... If I have 43 at the moment, what would be the effect of upping the teeth to 45 or if I have 45 what will happen if I drop down to 43? I've seen stuff around about chaning teeth to get more top end at the expense of acceleration and vice versa but not really sure which way round it works?

edit: also I was having a flick through the haynes manual around whats involved with fitting a new chain. I'm a bit confused around gettin the chain off and fitting the new one as in one section it goes on about a special tool(s) you need to cut the old chain off and then join the new chain together on the soft link?? then a bit farther on it's on about removing the rear wheel to get the chain off?

[motomaniac]

get a chain with a split link.... what bike you got???

[brainbug007]

Not sure what you mean by a chain with a split link? The bike I've got is a yamaha ybr 125 custom. Hence why I'm confused around the rear sprocket as the ybr 125 (non-custom) uses a 45 tooth and it looks like the custom may use a 43 tooth but both bikes use the same chain(118 links)?

[ayjay]

A split link is a removable link in the chain which is secured by a spring clip. This means that you can fit it without removing the rear wheel.Have a look at your original ,look for a link that looks different and secured by a sort of elongated spring clip -it may have a split link.

[Jimmyd]

By reducing the teeth on the back sprocket you are increasing the gearing so more top end speed but you'll give up acceleration. Kind of like pulling away in second rather than first.

Split link chains are ok on smaller cc bikes but not recommend for with bigger BHP. I would suggest less than 600cc.

J

[bigtel]

Robo, you brought some memories of the early 60s back to me i.e. cooking the chains of me Greeves & me Goldie in a tub (er old confiscated saucepan) of grease, also me mum came home one day and I had some crankcases cooking in the oven to sweat out the mainbearings as you do. She was not best pleased to say the least.

[robo]

Never understood parents at that age. I stripped down a 250cc norman <villiers2t twin > and took the frame into the bedroom to give it my best shot with some celly airarsehole paint. Cant repeat what was said but I could not at the time see what the fuss was about:confused: What a twat.

Bob

[bigtel]

got to be a thing about old bikers and bedrooms, one of my mates built a kneeler frame for his ariel square 4 in his, all tubes etc. brazed an done nice and proper (dont know how he never burnt the house down though). Then we all had to go round there and take the window out to lower it down on ropes, still his measuring was spot on because everything that was coming of the 4 fitted without any major mods needed. God knows where he would build a roadster.

[brainbug007]

Lol you guys don't half come out with some crazy stories! So I had a look last night and I've got 43 at the back not 45 so the haynes manual is wrong!!! Anyhow found a good site where it looks like I might get some different ones to try and gear it down a bit (http://www.wemoto.com/info/sprocket_gear_ratios/) and try get another 5-10 mph on my top end which will be better for the A roads :) I also looked at the chain and I can't see any links which are held on by a spring clip of any kind so I'm guessing I'll need to cut it off? Anyone know what sort of tool is best for that or will I get away with using a dremel on it?

[bigtel]

dont know if i am sending this twice or not, but what you need is a chain link splitter, its like a small screw in press that pushes out the joining rivet in between the links, and pushes back the new one, theres some on ebay you dont need a silly dear one, its not as though you are useing it every day

[motomaniac]

or if u have a grinder, you can just cut through it... you could have a diffrent length swingarm to a normal bike, as yours is the custom one, also, the previous owner may have changed the sprockets, unless it was new...

[ayjay]

I actually took mine to my local bike workshop
Dropped off AM --New front sprocket and chain ,brakes serviced while theyre off---Picked up PM Sorted :o (oh forgot to mention the 100 odd quid:eek: )

[brainbug007]

dont know if i am sending this twice or not, but what you need is a chain link splitter, its like a small screw in press that pushes out the joining rivet in between the links, and pushes back the new one, theres some on ebay you dont need a silly dear one, its not as though you are useing it every day

Nice one I'll have a dig round for one of those. I could use the grinder but I'd have for it to slip or kick back and hit something it shouldn't :eek:

The bike was brand new and is just a year old now. They must've changed the rear sprockets on the custom's last year as it looks like the pre 2011 one's had 45 at the back instead of the 43 it has now.

I actually took mine to my local bike workshop
Dropped off AM --New front sprocket and chain ,brakes serviced while theyre off---Picked up PM Sorted (oh forgot to mention the 100 odd quid )

Indeed hence why I'm trying to learn to do the work myself as i've got all the tools now pretty much after building a roadster :) I nearly died when my local bike shop wanted 150 quid to service it. Proper ripoff considering all they would have done is changed the oil, tightened some cables, and cleaned it a bit... Did it myself for under 10 quid as all it needed was a new spark plug and some oil :)

[bigtel]

Yea, grinders can be a handy tool but a spiteful foe, years ago I was building a transit with a ford 352ci y block engine. With a grinderette I was cutting out the centre bulkhead and floor, I had a kichback and then spent the next few hours in a hospital having the top half of my finger sewed back on, luckily it only grazed the bone but run 1/2 round the finger, couldnt get the doc to understand it was an 1/8 inch groove not a clean cut with a blade. I had visions of my finger pointing up at the end but it doesnt. Week later, same transit, same grinder, same hospital haveing grit and metal cleaned out of eye. (some people never learn) Ive got more safety concious as I aged, too many bits pack up or fall of naturally with out any help from me.

[ayjay]

There ought to be a T shirt for club members:D