View Full Version : time to get started
Shorty
12th October 2012, 08:10 PM
Well after about 2 years pondering over the idea of starting a roadster I have finally got started.
Big thanks to Handy Andy for doing me a chassis kit and I must say is excellent quality and all sizes and angles are spot on, you don't actually realized how many different angles need cut until actually getting started and will definitely save time and money if you don't have the gear to cut the steel. Also thanks for answering all the questions I had about various parts of the build.
Got started but seem to have a problem with my welder, ok for tacking together but the wire speed is all over the place, sometime works sometimes not. If any of you guys know anything about welders its a Clarke 150te, I'm guessing it needs new PCB.
Started tacking up chassis today an got to where the sb1's need welding together so just stopped there as welds are messy with random wire speed.
What is the best way to weld them together? I was thinking around 4 2" long welds each side or does full length need welding?
I will sort out a build thread eventually but still need to figure out how to upload pics
twinturbo
12th October 2012, 08:40 PM
My Clarkes wire feed has always seemed a bit random, especialy if left sitting for a few months. I had a SIP before hand ( stolen ) and I don't recal it being as bad , but it's over 10 years since that was halfinched..
Congrats on starting :)
TT
The V8 Files
12th October 2012, 10:12 PM
Just a few thoughts of things to try:
First off check your torch cable and nozzle, hold it out in a straight line and see if it feeds more consistently, even slightly rusty wire and other crap can contaminate the tube restricting the wire feed. Check/replace the nozzle.
The wire runs through rollers, one of which is normally reversible depending on which wire size your using, double check its correctly orientated.
Wire tension; sometimes the tensioner can be a little weak, a little packing on the tensioner can sometimes help.
skov
13th October 2012, 07:33 AM
The wire speed on my clarke was awful too!
Changing the liners (main one and swan neck) helped massively, as did setting the roller tension.
It's still a bit pants at times, but nothing like as bad as it was.
Shorty
13th October 2012, 08:21 AM
I actually removed the tension completely as was expecting something to be restricting the wire but even then when I press trigger sometimes motor doesn't turn or I just get a short burst of movement then it stops. I have to keep pressing the trigger to try get it going.
skov
13th October 2012, 08:40 AM
I'd take the torch apart, clean/check the switch and look for any loose connections.
HandyAndy
13th October 2012, 09:45 AM
I,m pleased you like your chassis kit :) , sounds like you haven,t wasted any time getting cracking on it too :eek: :cool:
With regard the welding of the SB1.s ...yes that sounds fine with the stitch welding, put the parts in a vice to avoid them moving whilst welding tho.
If you can,t get your own welder sorted, I have a spare Mig ( clarke 151te turbo) that you are welcome to borrow until you get your own sorted , just shout if you need it ;)
we,ll soon see some progress pics eh , we like piccies lol.
cheers
Andy
Richard Dryden
13th October 2012, 10:15 AM
I have a very similar Clark welder and have found the same problem after prolonged lack of use leading to dampness getting into the gun switch etc, as already suggested strip and clean, using the welder on some scrap to heat up drive out moisture seems to sort it. Hope this helps.
robo
13th October 2012, 12:31 PM
All of the above is true of the mig welders hobby or professional. It takes ten minutes to check it through prior to welding which is a must if they have been laid up for a while. If you dont intend to use the things for a while its best to take the reel out and bag it up or take it indoors.
Bob
Shorty
13th October 2012, 08:33 PM
That wouldn't surprise me then as it hasn't been used for over a year. Will give it a good clean out and see how it goes, it is an old thing too.
Thanks for the offer Andy, hopefully will get it sorted.
I did a bit more today but had a bit of confusion with sb3 position as when it came to fitting sb5/sb6 it just didn't seem right.
Other than that had a quick check on all other dimensions and everything seems spot on so far
Also forgot to say thanks to vmax for the gas bottle. Forgot how big them things are. That should last me a while.
Davidbolam
13th October 2012, 09:42 PM
Hi shorty.
If you want to see a built up chassis at all drop me a line as I'm only in gosforth and the kettle is always on!
David
Shorty
14th October 2012, 09:17 AM
Thanks David, I should be ok. I'm guessing I've measured wrong size or from wrong point.
I will check sometime today and see what I have done.
Shorty
14th October 2012, 10:10 AM
Actually sb3 must be in the correct position as the two sb4 were a good fit although I didn't weld them in as my diff is 7.5" and so will mount them later as recommended by Andy to save cutting the diff lugs.
Andy you did say the sb5/6 mitre angle can confuse but I'm sure I had it right, mitre angle to top and 52 deg to sb3.
May have just been a tight fit and need a quick clean off rough edges. I will probably have the same bother with all diagonal tubes ensuring they are in exact position.
Shorty
14th October 2012, 03:15 PM
Turns out I was just being stupid, marking dimensions on the back rather than front as it clearly shows on page 38, so its the shorter corner of the mitre cut that is lined up.
Next question... The book says noting the position of the diagonal braces in relation to the other rails. but I'm not sure about D1 and D2 where they fit to U1 and U2 as having them flush with outer frame doesn't look like it has much contact.
I have a picture so you guys can check it but will have to do that later as not at computer.
Shorty
14th October 2012, 07:04 PM
http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y429/krysshort/IMAG0339_zpseccdd105.jpg
Well if the picture has worked you will see TR1 across the top, thats U1 coming up to TR1 with the outer front corner lined up with the outside of TR1.
Now if I do have U1 correct, the magnet is holding D1 flush with the outside face of TR1 and does not look right. I would expect that to be flat up against U1 further in to give more support.
I had a quick look through book but D1 doesn't seem to have even been fitted further on. I understand people leave this out until engine fitted but I just want to get everything clear and I can remove later if needed.
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