So, I've been thinking more about my bodywork and have decided to take the plunge and attempt to make my own scuttle and bonnet. The scuttle I don't fin particularly alarming as I can fabricate a steel frame which I can then skin with ally. The bonnet is a source of anxiety though as if its so much as a millimetre out it'll look gash. it'd no doubt going to take some time and need huge amounts of fettling. My main motivation for this is that funding for the car is going to dry up for a while but these should take an equally long amount of time to get right so, that's fine.
Another thing I'm having second thoughts on is the eventual (meaning years) plan for the future was to turbo charge the car but the more I think about past engines that I've really enjoyed I'm tempted to go the other way and produce a crisp naturally aspirated engine. The best car motor I've used was in fact a 1.6 205 gti. It was not fast but I didn't car. It was exciting, sounded great, took off at the top end and loved to basically rev its nuts off. The close ratio gearbox was also equally important. So, I'm very tempted to go for an ITB setup coupled with a cam change. There are also close ratio gear kits available for the MX5 box to compliment this. Whats good about this plan as no matter what I was going to run the engine from an MS ecu which means dyno time. Why not fit the itb's no prior to IVA and pay for one lot of dyno time? Anyways, I'm on a night shift and having a thought vomit so better shut up now before I plan even more elaborate ideas. |
For what it's worth I went supercharger on my 03 1.8 mx5 engine
Standard ecu , note the 03 ecu is classed as "adaptive" the earlier ecu' I know nowt about any how I fitted a sport cat off eBay kept the 2 o2 sensors and kept the egr system in place and its emissions were spot on no worries for Iva Afterwards you can then go itb's or go f/I as you wish Just ma twopenneth:) |
How does it drive with the charger?
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Awesome :)
There are some clips on YouTube look for Haynes roadster built now having fun by gary taylor and there are details of how I did it in my build thread on the forum but basically a mini eaton m45 charger Passat Tdi intercooler a second throttle body and some imagination to hide it all in there The sound is great power delivery is smooth and the boost svt kick is something else The charger is "on" all the time unlike a turbo but as I also have the svt engine I get a big kick further up the revs Enjoy the videos |
Should also add if you want any more info details just shout at me only to happy to help
Incidentally she is as happy tootling along as she is spiriting along ... ahem in fact we are off on Sunday touring Scotland Don't let lack of funds put you off I didn't have an open cheque book it just takes some lateral thinking and a little more time, fabricate rather than buy, you WILL get there and remember dreams don't cost anything |
supercharger great sound track to drive to :D
Gary GaryT what's the reason for two throttle butterfly's |
It cuts down some of the induction roar and improves the throttling, normally the first (closest to intake) is open slightly ahead of the main one so the main one on the plenum retains its electronics the second one is bare and is just a t/b with any other ports blanked off
I did my research on mx5 nutz where there is a wealth of info and then adapted it to fit on my Haynes all out of site :) Plenty of comments as people ask what the noise is and a smile when you tell them, David said it was like being chased over the mountain by a monster lol |
I remember the supercharged mini we had the whine of the charger was so addictive even better when I changed the pulley :D
Gary Norton Hats off to you for giving the handmade body work ago I am to heavy handed for that perhaps it doesn't help working on trucks and plant for a living Gary |
Yep got a smaller pulley on , so I know what you mean :)
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I am excited, most of all because I can have LOUVRES stamped into the bonnet!
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Looking good mate are they 13inch rims?
Gary |
Cheers buddy, they are yes.
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How wide are the rears be good to see with the rear arches on.
Gary |
Yes im really looking forward to that day. It'll be nice to be able to visualise its end appearance that bit better, any day now!
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Hi guys,
could anyone please measure the radius of their bonnets and scuttles please? Also, the height of the scuttles leading and rear edges? |
Hi,
I don't know if you will find all the measurements you need there, but here is a link to 3D drawings with main measurements I have done several years ago for Equinox. https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...3JNUnQ3NnlmYUk Hope that will help :) |
That's perfect, thank you Sylvain!
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So photobucket has gone all capitalist on us...
Some progress! |
Considering I had no bodywork available when fitting my engine and so on it all fits together rather well
That radiator is in a good position too. I'm hoping to finalise a structure under the scuttle this week ready to house the electrics and then I'll get on with the lights. I'm also going to go with a grp dash as well as I'm feeling lazy. I have an aero screen on order too. The dash panel I bought it too narrow though and is probably for a locost so I need to decide how to address this. I don't fancy buying another so will either modify this or make my own. |
And no, I couldn't get any larger pictures...
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She's looking mighty fine mate.. soon be wiring time
Gary |
Shhhhh, I'm trying to forget that!
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Looks really nice and neat. Loving the white and black combo.
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Thank you, it's really come along in the past month. I should have the dash done and fitted by the end of the week. I'm unsure as to whether I should add some sort of structure behind. I certainly need to add something to fit the ecu and fuse/relay/witchcraft on to.
Should I also add a 'floor' to the underside of the dash/scuttle? |
I was just gonna mount the hardware on the inside of the scuttle thats on the engine side.
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I see a lot of people doing that and it makes perfect sense but I don't like the idea of a big empty void or the underside of the scuttle above your knees being open. I need to come up with something that makes it feel more finished.
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Quote:
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seeing as photobucket has gone crazy. Could you show me how you fitted your side panels? I cant decide if i should glue them or rivet. Thanks!
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I used both, glued along all contact points with maybe 15/20 rivets per side holding them on tight.
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Some more progress today. The wing brackets are more or less done. I will cover them in a clear heat shrink to dull the edges some more and offer some stone protection.
http://i.imgur.com/VgD9Uzl.jpg?1 Headlights having a trial fit and the grill is painted and bits behind painted black. http://i.imgur.com/nMG6xeW.jpg?1 The dash panel has also been widened, shaped to fit and given a carbon vinyl wrap http://i.imgur.com/kZl3WUS.jpg?1 I need to make some decisions about the column. I don't want switch gear or an ignition barrel on it but it seems likely that using the oem MX5 gear will make life a lot easier. One of the stalks will be redundant though as I'm not fitting wipers so that'll bug me. Has anyone had any success with using a bare column? I understand Caterham use wheel mounted indicator buttons or something? |
Blinkstop.co.uk
Does various modules for the button indicators and wireless transmission for removable steering wheels , one has 4 functions and one 8 functions this enables left or right and both together for hazards |
Thanks Gary, I'll check them out!
I have these for sale if interested. £40 posted. £20 posted. |
Woot! Just bagged an Acewell 7659 dash for a fraction of the new cost!
I also found the manufacturer of caterhams bonnet latches and have 4 of those on the way. A nice saving instead of buying from caterham. |
Can anyone shed any light on what springs I should order with my shocks?
I'm going to use a 12" rear and 14" front. I understand I'll need 250lb rear and 350lb front but, what length spring do I need? |
Can anyone guide me please on what number of dash switches I'll be needing? I'm not going with a screen on this build.
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Are you using stalks on the column ?
On dash hazards, fog, lights On stalks indicators , dip/main, horn As bare minimum |
No everything is to be dash mounted or two column mounted indicator buttons if possible.
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Ok if all on the dash then all of the above and they need tell tales on them for indicators are you having a removable steering wheel ? If not you could make a plate to go imbetween the wheel and boss to carry the buttons and use blinkstop for the timing so that they cancel or if on the dad a three position switch on it's side centre being off and left n right with manual cancelling oh and remember all switches to conform to radii requirements unless in the exempt zone behind steering wheel
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Thanks for the confirmation. The wheel is removable yes. I was thinking a bracket around the column originally but your idea is a neat one, the wiring may be a sod though.
So my list consists of the following. I've added a flash button on there for the rage moments. 1. Side lights/dip beam - switch type - off/on(1)/On(1+2) 2. Main beam - switch type - off/on 3. Main flash - switch type - off/on momentary 4. Rear fog - switch type - off/on 5. Hazards - switch type - off/on 6. Horn - switch type - switch type - off/on momentary 7. Engine start - switch type - off/on momentary 9. Indicators - switch type - on/off/on Edited to add, I'm just gonna use a toggle switch for the indicators, much easier and cheaper. |
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