Sounds good
Hazards permanent + as must operate with ignition off and fog light +feed from the dipped head light terminal

Great stuff thank you again!

Bonnet and an aero screen fitted!

She's looking mighty fine really nice tidy build mate you must be really happy with it.


Gary

Thanks Gary, yes I'm getting happier with as each new bit goes on.

Does anyone know if Caterham rear wings/arches have the same mounting flange dimensions as the Haynes arches?

So my nice shiny new shocks arrived today which means I can set the geometry up a lot better and hopefully get my head around bump steer.

This brought back an issue I identified a while ago with my rear uprights and their upper bushes. My poly bushes are incredibly stiff when everything is done up tight. By tight I mean I can stand on the hub with no shock fitted and can't budge it downwards at all. With its bolt slackened off all is well so I might look for a better bush if anyone has any suggestions?

I also can't tell you how relieved I was to find my shocks mounts all line up!

Evening mate

Is it the bush in the hub nipping up? I know Talon does a bush for the hub I got a pair for mine not fitted yet though.

Gary

They're the ones I have :(

That don't give me much hope although I can't see me being anywhere close anytime soon

Gary

Well I've ordered a different make but failing that I may turn some up from Delrin.

Air intake.





That filter is complete garbage though and hits the underside of the nose so I have a straight rather than tapered filter on the way.

Has anyone had any joy shortening an Escort steering rack?

I've got the rack mounted as low as I can but the amount of bump steer it has seems a bit crazy. That's with the wheels at maximum droop (and I've used inch longer shocks than Saturn originally suggested).

Try to put some washers/shims under the rack and/or to move rack further/back.

That'll raise the rack and will further exaggerate the effect. I can't get it any lower.

Does anyone know if a motorcycle fuel tank cap would pass IVA?

Here is my dash switches!

Can anyone educate me a little on fuel tank requirements?

I have a tank using an MX5 sender/pump unit. This has a high pressure fuel feed and a return built in. I also have a filler neck.

Now what do I need for vent/rollover? The has an 8mm barb welded onto it but I'm not sure what use this'll be. I also have a rollver over ball valve that's awaiting fitting.

Now would I be right in saying I only need the ball valve to allow for air displacement when filling, air intake when fuel is used and to then stop fuel spillage should I run out of driving ability?

That sounds about right. Mine uses the MX5 pump sender with flow and return pipes. I also use the MX5 filler and my 8mm top pipe connects to an 8mm hose with a non return ball valve the hose then loops down to the bottom of the car rather than finish in the boot area. Passed IVA with that system Oct 2016 and been ok on the road since

That’s reassuring, thank you.

Hey guys, I had a little break form the car after a cold winter and a new job but I'm gearing up to get cracking again.

I've just bought a new compressor for this year as I hope to up my game with spraying components and I'd like to paint the car one day.

Has anyone any experience with home HVLP setups?

I have a Graco gun in mind and will use a gun mounted regulator but I'm unsure what kind of wall mounted filter/water trap/regulator to use and will 1.4 fittings flow enough air?

The gun I want to get requires 7cfm of air and the compressor I have outputs over 14cfm.

Hi guys,

I've looked through the IVA manual but have lost the bit that talks about distance between pipes/cable runs and so on.

Can anyone guide me on this topic please? I may have buggered up in the early stage of making the car as I have a bottle neck around the gear lever area and I'm struggling to find a satisfactory path for the electrics that run to the rear of the car.

On a brighter note I'm fairly confident I'll be turning the key in the next few weeks. I've mounted all my electrical hardware and have done all the cable runs asides from the bit above.

I went with a Megasquirt in the end and made use of the CBS wiring fuse/relay box for an easier time. I just need to connect the dots now with cable.

Another q, has anyone sourced a good place that will machine/stamp chassis numbers in a way that looks nice? I'd CNC it if I had the resources :(

Some more wiring progress today.

Looking good
Did you find out the info for the wiring and pipes down the tunnel

Hi Your car is looking good, IVA in general construction section it states all wiring should be clipped at 300mm intervals.
What coil packs are you using?.
Do you know if they would be okay for 1800 BP engine?.
Regards Mick.

Hey, no I've not confirmed the distance between fuel and electrical runs yet. I've started at the front and I'm working my way back so I have some time to think before I need to overcome it.

The coil packs are from a Yaris and I understand they should work fine with the 1800. Part no is 90919 02239. You can pick them up for about £5-8 each from the bay.

Thanks for that information, I will look into that.
I had a look at the way I have run my pipes and loom down the tunnel, I had to offset the wiring loom down and then back up past the gear lever section but the pipes for fuel and brakes cleared without the offset, and I have mine clipped at 200mm.
Regards Mick.

Thanks for the info, even if I need to take a silly looking route I’m confident I can do it safely. I’m using all led read lights so I can get away with small cross section wires which combined with the fuel pump/sender and handbrake light wires result in not a lot to wiggle through.

I had a whole day on it today. The engine wiring is all done. I need to figure out a decent rout for my alternator cable and that’s about that. Next is the rear of the car then the birds nest under the dash...

Has anyone got any pictures of how they routed their wiring around the rear panel and so on?

Using adhesive pads would be great but we all know they like to detach.

I used the double sided cable tie bases. Removed the tape with a Stanley and a blob of tiger seal to stick it on. It hasn’t moved in 4 years
adhesive bases

I presume Iva man was happy with this?

On mine the wiring is all on the car frame, mostly held with pop riveted cable tie clips and all the electrical fittings come quite close to the frame so I used a 2 or 3 wire quick connector so I can remove body parts. Under the wheel arches I glued the wire in place with a tiger seal substitute. Can't move any of the wires and IVA man seemed to be impressed at the lack of flying wires.

Yeah no mention as far as I can remember at Iva.

That's good news then, I'll use some of those for the tricky bits.

The whole front end and engine is now wired or at least the wires are ready to connect up under the dash. I'll finish the rear light mounts later and get started on the back end after. Its getting closer...

I've finally got the front and rear components of the car wired and now its time to connect the mess under the dash.


I have a Thatcham approved immobiliser as one form of security, could anyone suggest what will pass as the second?

The steering lock - or - even a key on an ignition switch will do

Mine has the steering lock and ignition as the two forms.
I think you may find the immobiliser has to be ‘professionally’ installed. I added mine after Iva.
If you’re in the area you are welcome to have a look at my car.

Yeah I did away with all the column switch gear and ignition barrel so my steering lock no longer exists. I have a dash mounted ignition barrel from a bike that’s bolted to the column support frame. Hopefully that counts as the 2nd item.

Re the immobiliser, ah, I’m not sure I want someone else messing with my electrics. If it’s a sticking point I may ask an installer to look over my attempt and see if they’ll sign it off as is.

Yeah I know what you mean with someone else fiddling with your electrics.
I’m pretty sure that a letter (invoice) from said ‘professional’ would suffice as proof.
My chassis material was new but the company went out of business when I needed the invoice for the registration. So I just found their old address and had an invoice.

Chassis material?