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-   -   David's Build Thread (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=7031)

Eternal 24th February 2013 10:01 AM

Looking good David i have to admit its a very smart build! Thanks a load for finding that plug wont be long now till i can get the beast running.

Davidbolam 25th February 2013 10:29 PM

Suspension set up
 
I want to set up my suspension roughly myself. What angles should I measure and what should they be??? And.... Has anyone got any tricks for measuring them. I was planning to make a cardboard plum bob.

Also has none used the bodywork from agm? Would there be any problems with the side panels stopping short of the suspension?

David

flyerncle 26th February 2013 07:52 PM

I have a magnetic camber guage if you are stuck.;)

Davidbolam 27th February 2013 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyerncle (Post 88762)
I have a magnetic camber guage if you are stuck.;)

Cheers,

I am going to try and make a plumb bob contraption with a protactor some string and MDF. If I get stuck I will give you a shout.

When it gets a bit warmer you will have to keep an eye out for me working on my car when you are on the Base leg of the circuit which seems to be right over my house.

I am going to try and set up my rear wheels with 1 degree camber and the front wheels with a couple of degrees toe in. Does this sound about right? All I could find was something on the westfield owners club forum....

Stot 27th February 2013 10:22 AM

On page 159 of the book it has recommended starting points.

Front and Rear Camber 1 degree negative
Front Toe In 0-0.5 degrees
Type Pressures 18-20psi.

Cheers
Stot

Davidbolam 27th February 2013 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stot (Post 88771)
On page 159 of the book it has recommended starting points.

Front and Rear Camber 1 degree negative
Front Toe In 0-0.5 degrees
Type Pressures 18-20psi.

Cheers
Stot

Thanks.

Why don't you get you logo made into a badge as it would look great on a nosecone.... or let me have the artwork to make some up.

Stot 27th February 2013 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davidbolam (Post 88772)
Thanks.

Why don't you get you logo made into a badge as it would look great on a nosecone.... or let me have the artwork to make some up.

I have a CNC Mill at home to do just that. :) Wheel centres too.

If you want the artwork still I can sent it over.

Cheers
Stot.

flyerncle 27th February 2013 06:13 PM

By all means do David,no probs at all.
Every time I am in the curcuit its usually mental with inbound IFR traffic and they tend to say the imortal words "keep it tight and expadite vacate" so I tend to turn base at Brunswick Ind Est and descend quick to land well up to vacate Foxtrot.

Set up a flashing light and we can sort a flight one day.

If you are stuck let me know.

Davidbolam 5th March 2013 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyerncle (Post 88780)
By all means do David,no probs at all.
Every time I am in the curcuit its usually mental with inbound IFR traffic and they tend to say the imortal words "keep it tight and expadite vacate" so I tend to turn base at Brunswick Ind Est and descend quick to land well up to vacate Foxtrot.

Set up a flashing light and we can sort a flight one day.

If you are stuck let me know.

Somewhere I have a bright orange allied forces marker (from the gulf war 1 designed for the top of a tank. not mine just acquired it) as long as you not in an a10 you should spot it.

Here is a picture of the earth bond I have added to my tank. I have used 17 amp wire. Will this be sufficiently thick?


CTWV50 6th March 2013 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davidbolam (Post 88898)
Somewhere I have a bright orange allied forces marker (from the gulf war 1 designed for the top of a tank. not mine just acquired it) as long as you not in an a10 you should spot it.

Here is a picture of the earth bond I have added to my tank. I have used 17 amp wire. Will this be sufficiently thick?


Hi David,

Just modded the sender for my build to fit it into the tank. My first question is....

How have you bolted/bonded the pump and sender unit to the tank?

and secondly.....

Surely if you earth the tank to the body when fuel causes a path of least resistance between the tank and the live wire in the tank the pump and/or sender will stop working and probably blow a fuse??

I was thinking about this this morning after reading up on fitting a metal fuel tank. Surely the tank needs to be isolated from the body altogether?

Confused!:confused:

Edit: I must be miss understanding something about vehicle electrics as surely even if the tank wasn't earth bonded to the chassis the pump and senders positive and return would short when wetted by fuel. I remember having the same thoughts when I replaced an in tank fuel pump and my old car. :confused:

Edit!!!!

Oh petrol in non conductive ! Well that explains a lot!! haha! I thought all liquids conducted electricity! Doh!


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