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Could you drill holes through it so you can use a long piece of pipe as a tommy bar to try and twist and pull? Problem is holding the can tight enough without damaging it.
Cheers Stot |
I think I would be tempted to try rusty end squashed in a vice first and try to get some rotation out of it, failing that cut the rusty bit off just shy of the stainless and used a stout screwdriver to force the rusty bit to crumple inwards the only other way is to use a die grinder to grind a strip through inside of the old steel till you meet stainless then just rip it out .......a few methods there for you:D
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Bob |
Cheers everyone! I chopped it off and got my Dremel and trusty screwdriver out!
It is now out! ![]() |
Today I ran the engine for a good ten minutes to check for leaks. None that I could see. It didn't get hot enough for the fan to kick in but the t's and p's seemed to be ok. The only warning light I have is for the brakes (presumably as there is brake fluid in).
I plan on doing a bit more work tomorrow and maybe taking it for a bit of a spin (on the drive). I will make sure I record it and will put a link on here. David P.s I have installed the horns ![]() |
interior panneling
What is the minimum thickness of ally i could use on my tunnel sides? I was considering 1mm. Does this sound thick enough?
also... how have people panelled their chassis' on the drivers side next to the pedals? On my saturn chassis there is a metal plate on the side adjacent to the prop however I was think of putting the ally on the inside of the cockpit. Have you all bent the panel to go from the inside to join up with the steel plate? Any pitcure would br great as I don't want to have to redo this once it has been done (like everything else on the car lol) Thanks David |
fairly sure I am on 1mm Ally.
The front steel section is on the outside face to give an extra 20mm of foot room. TT |
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no, steel in the footwell and ally on the tunnel
TT |
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HTH Cheers Stot |
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