Great day today, youngest off spring's birthday and we were all off to the "Climbing Hanger" 8 miles away with some school friends. We were a seat short in the two cars that were taking everyone, so I thought I'd take the birthday boy in my contraption as the weather was excellent, no chance of rain. Nice slow leisurely drive though busy roads, got lots of attention and swarmed my teenagers at one point asking lots of questions. Just need to sort the creaky suspension and a rear cover. Suspension, a job for tomorrow, I've got some lithium grease somewhere. :D

One of the first jobs I did when I started building the car was to push in the bushes on the suspension. I did it without grease, I can't remember what my thinking was.

So I greased up the rear suspension yesterday morning using some teflon grease I had, I use it on my mountain bike as it's waterproof (you'd think all greases were waterproof, they aren't, apparently). Took it out a spin and OMG the difference. The rear end is completely silent and silky smooth over bumps, around corners the rear really hangs in there but without oversteer. Before it was good but felt skittish going from under to over steer in the corners. I'm very pleased with it but i think I could do with 300lb springs in the rear rather than 250b. With me and my 11 year old in the car I felt us going onto the bump stops occasionally.

Still got that stuttering at 5000rpm, it's occasional and manages to get over it in 1st, 2nd and 3rd but after 15 minutes driving it will not go past 5000rpm in 4th gear. I think this suggests a fuel shortage or pressure issue but have a feeling it's coil pack related. Might hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and see.

I'm thinking of going to 300 lb springs on the back too (highlighted on a recent trackday). Alternatively I have been thinking about adding an ARB. Some people say you shouldn't need them but certain Caterhams come with them as standard. I'm probably going to try the springs first and if the ride is too harsh go back to 250 lb springs and add an ARB.

It's not really a corning issue for me I'm just a bit heavier than your average bloke I think. Helps with traction though! :D (16 stone)

Believe it or not grease is composed of soap,so not waterproof,does clean your hands though.

You learn something new........!:)

As I am still at a loss as to the lack of power occasionally over 5000rpm I thought I'd hook up a gauge to measure the fuel pressure.



Went out to test it and low and behold the power stutter returned after 10 minutes of driving. Fuel pressure remain solidly at 40psi (3bar), after a little thinking as I was driving I thought this must be coil pack related then but then thought what happens if i turn the lights off during a stutter ( I have been driving around with the lights on for safety/visability). Well the car took off like a rocket when I turned off the lights and when I turned them back on the car started struggling again. Now is this coils, the alternator, or could the tiny battery be the issue. I'm pretty sure the battery does nothing really when driving other than charge, car always starts first time so does that rule out the alternator. SO coils then?!?!:confused:

Any idea what your voltages are Chris, I know this may sound daft but it seems to me you have a voltage drop, perhaps a faulty earth somewhere????
Ian

yeah I think there is a drop in voltage might try a few tests tomorrow. But with the time delay of around 10-15mins I think the lower voltage is highlighting a weak coil pack when it gets warm. But could be a faulty alternator or regulator. hmmm

It's all down to that electrickery stuff it don't play fair, unlike mechanical trickery, it hides out of sight.

arfon

So this morning I had a look at the coil packs and they seemed fine no bad connections or anything, removed the fuel pressure gauge and then fired it up, then I turn it off and put the spark leads in the correct order! :D Measured the voltage at the battery 14.4v turned on the lights 13.5v, rear fog and main beam and I was dipping into 12v territory. Thanks for the tips everyone my finger was hovering over the "buy it now" button for some coil packs last night, I did check the earths, but I was paranoid about good earths when wiring up the engine and the earths were solid.

Going to take the 1.8 alternator off the 1.8, change the pulley on the alt or the 1.6 engine pulleys and see how I get on. No money spent and a easyish solution.

Stripped down the front of the engine, nose off, etc. No sheared bolts fortunately, but the crank ribbed pulley is chemically welded to the toothed crank pulley behind. I've t*****d it lots but have given up for the evening and left it soaking in WD40. If it still stubborn in the morning I'll be using fire. Oh and I've caused a leak from the water pump inlet so I'll have to fix that too!:rolleyes:

All fixed, managed to get the crank pulley off this morning and fit the 1.8 pulleys, this evening I got the 1.8 alternator in and everything back in the engine bay including fixing that coolant leak from the rotted 6mm pipe I disturbed, it was going to go eventually anyway.



I now have a steady 14.4v with the lights on or off which is much better than before. 1.8 alt is bigger and needs a larger ring connector which fortunately I had. :D ribbed belt is a better design too so it solves the v-belt 1.6 issue aswell.

Nose on in the morning and then fit the 300lb springs and take it for a drive I guess! :cool:

Better to have found the perished hose at home rather than on the side of the road

Arfon

I'll be interested in your feelings about the 300lb springs, I've eaten a few more pies than you and have 250lb fitted
Ian

Yes let us know what the ride is like, it's not so much a weight issue with me it's the way the back end rolled on a recent track day.

Got it all back together, engine issue is resolved Rev cleanly all the way 7k every time now. Springs have reduced sag yet maintained grip in the corners. Walking as I type so excuse any errors. :D I did manage to clip my number plate though and rattle a wheel arch loose! The list continues ! :D

BLOODY CATS EYES! lol



Went too fast between two single lane speed bumps, cleared the speed bumps fine but when the suspension squatted down at the front I must of caught the reg on a cats eye or something! Haha how ironic! lol

Just to expand on this I can go quicker on bumpy surfaces especially big dips in the road and small hump back bridges. I haven't lost the balance when cornering etc. Understeer is gone and oversteer is available through aggressive steering input! I like it! Geometry needs sorting though I just can't get it right. Going to have it professionally done soon.

Other things of note, I've changed my wing mirrors for lifeline single seater race mirrors, I still haven't made a rear cover. I still haven't strengthened the pass side wheel arch support, I have reinstated the the indicator stalk as the buttons are not convenient for fast road driving. :rolleyes: I have fitted a weld-on steering boss from rally design to a 2nd column I had and removed it immediately to be sent back to rally design, too much play in the splines, probably the last thing I ever buy from them there unbranded products are utter s***e. I'm not bothering with a removable steering wheel I've bought a gear/handbrake lock instead. I haven't done the stripes yet either!

1.8 alt and pulleys on a 1.6 engine! :)

Hi,

I've read through your thread (great read and very useful) but, an I probably missed it but what brand bodywork did you use?

Cheers
Gav

Hi Gav,

AGM! http://www.agmsportscars.co.uk

I recommend the bodywork but as with most it's not perfect. My only real complaint is looking at the rear arches, one side is slightly different to the other, hardly noticeable but it did bug me for a couple of weeks. There was an old timer called Alan Whitehead making the panels and the gelcoat was almost flawless but he's retired now and sold on the moulds and the websites not responding at the moment. The colour I ordered is Ayres red 503 (Masons paint colour). HTH

Certainly recommend the nose, bonnet and scuttle they fit really well with some patience.

Found some info on who is making the panels now. Seems like a professional bloke. I wanted to find him in case I need replacements.

http://www.totalkitcar.com/2014/07/1...locost-panels/

"All change at AGM Sportscars, with the company’s kit projects finding new homes. The very capable WLR is now under the control of Adrian Beale, the man who debuted a brand new Cobra replica at Stoneleigh this year.

Meanwhile, AGM’s Alan Whitehead is a gifted GRP laminator and also offered a range of panels to suit Locost and Haynes Roadster kits, gaining a great reputation for the quality of glassfibre.

That side of the business is now known as Al’s Locost Body Shop run by engineer, Ian Armitage, a close neighbour of AGM, located on the same industrial estate. The plan is to continue offering the panels, available either as a full package or as individual parts, but also to add extras to the pricelist, the sort of stuff that Locost and Haynes Roadster builders would find attractive.

Because of Ian’s engineering background and skill with metal, it’s no surprise to learn that a chassis package is under development as are wishbones. More information on this one soon.

Prices for GRP panel kits are very keen, with Locost bodykit at £620 and Haynes Roadster 10-piece ensemble at £750.

Don’t forget the place and the date you read this news item. First again…

A new website is under development but in the meantime you can find more information via the www.agmsportscars.co.uk or 07752 194 200 ENDS."

Oh here we go!
http://alsbodyshop.co.uk

Took a trip out in it today on my own to visit an old friend and take him for a spin. He was suitably shook up after our little excursion. :D Got a nice pic of his mk2 8v and my car on his driveway.:cool:

Great stuff, appreciate the link thank you.

LOL! :D



Car coded axle stands, I was a bit bored!:)

After smashing NTS's flawed rear arches, I ordered AGM's. The price was very good and the wings looked sweet when they arrived. However, they were very light (just over 1 kg each!), made out of single layer of 600g matting with thicker edges, and didn't take another traffic cone impact too well. Also, the rear surface of the arches is not strictly cylindrical, so the Caterham Britax rear light does not sit very well on it.

Stop hitting things Albert! :D

Agree with this also, maybe avoid the rear arches when ordering the body kit, also alga you should try harder to avoid those traffic cones! :) :p

In contrast I recon I could jack up my car by the Equinox arches.... :p

Cheers
Stot

Beefed up the pass side wheel arch support. Not as much as the drivers side, but I thought I'd see how this version faired. It's made from baby-dam-baby-den-bars! :D



In other news I've ordered the 1.8 a 4.5kg flywheel! :D Oh and just bought a MX5 mk2 1.8 to break and keep the engine, possibly.

I went for the easy option and westfield sell them powder coated for 35 each

Have you been out much in your car? Mine has now done 400 miles!

250 miles atm I only seem to drive it to test improvements, repairs or just for a blast. Soon I'll be driving it to test engine upgrades etc, it's a lot of fun I doubt I'll tire of it, but I built it to see if I could, and now I'm going to enjoy changing and upgrading it I've no room to build another one. Today I stripped dawn the 1.8 loom of all the unecessaries ready for fitting.

Shift light
 

Did you fit a shift light to your car? If so which wire was for the tacho?

David

Yes, Black with a white strip.

Did you wire it at the back of the dash , ecu or coil

Thanks

David

Behind the click cluster, yes.

Got myself a new toy, 10lb XTD flywheel. Knocked the pilot bearing in the other day. Few other bits still to get before I fit this 1.8 engine.

Went out for a good blast yesterday too, lovely warm weather so I just wore a t-shirt. Still surprises me how quick it is with this little 1.6 engine and only 90bhp. Does make me LOL! What's a 133bhp going to be like!

I did hit two big ripples/bumps in the road going into a corner fast, probably too fast, it really unsettled the cars balance under braking, whole car seemed to jump in the air and skip to the outside with a little screech of the rear tires, bit of a brown trouser moment, also managed to get the fan to kick in going flat out, definatley need to sort out better cooling especially in this hot weather.



Oh also there's a 1999 Mk2 MX5 sitting on the driveway already in bits. Engines done a good few miles but it still goes like stink, it's the next version of the 1.8 before the VVT it has solid lifter camshafts and a Variable Inlet Manifold, feels like a much bigger engine with the torque delivery. I think I'll rebuild it with forged rods and turbo that engine, can't make up my mind. I'm becoming a bit of a serial MX5 killer!

Not much happening at the mo, just stripping this mx5 mk2 for ebay parts to get my money back and make a few extra quid. In preparation for the mk1 1.8 (1997) engine I have decided to redesign the layout in the engine bay. So on Saturday I took a drive to Demon Tweaks and got myself a tiny battery bike and cage and have fitted it on top of pedal box. I now have more space for centrally mounted alloy header tank when I fit the 1.8 and will move the fuse box near to the other one.

I noticed a bit of endfloat on the mk1 and mk2 1.8 engines and thought I'd check it out while they were easy to access.the mk1 1.8 had 120,000 on the clock and was o.oo6" which is the new spec! I knew this engine had been well looked after. The mk2 had 170,000 on the clock and it measured o.oo8", Wow still within the wear limits too!I was impressed!

http://www.miata.net/solo/99miatathr...ngfailure.html

did you come up with a solution for the sump yet? just fitted my engine and i dont like how low the sump is to make the engine clear