Thank you Paul.
Yes, I know. The best thing would have been to do a custom engine mount as described in the book (alternative engine mounts), without using the boxes made with the "EM plates". I totally agree that angled legs would have been better. But I made the "boxes" and they are fully welded to the chassis, because I didn't expect I would have clearance issues between the water outlet and the steering column. I really didn't want to remove them, that is the reason why I "copied" the original cast mounts, and just adjust the height to solve the clearance problem.

The engine mounts are now finished. They look like that.

Attachment 1671

I braced the right one with triangular plates on top. The bottom plate (6mm) is fully welded on the full length of the tubes making the "skeleton" of the mount.

Attachment 1672

No bracing on the right mounts, but two plates, fully welded to the tubes, on top and at the bottom.

Attachment 1673
Attachment 1674

I hope they are going to be strong enough. To me, they do look strong enough, but again, I'm not a specialist. What do you guys think of the final mounts?

Any comment is still welcome.

Thanks a lot.

I thought it would be too late but was worth comment I thought,I have one box and one on the chassis on my frame more by bad management than forethought.

your latest versions look tough enough so would not worry.

Look at the mass of the ally ones and think of the amount of metal used to hold up the motor just because its alloy,so yours should have no problem.

Thank you for that, very helpful and reassuring. Hope I will sleep better this night than last night :)

I agree with you on comparing the amount of metal with the original ones.

Now I just hope it is going to be OK for the SFRO (Swedish IVA) inspector too!

Thanks again.

I hope so too,over engineered is always better to me.

Good luck.