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Good luck with the new build, looks like an amazing challenge :) |
Hi everybody. To create space for my new ramblings I have condensed the old build diary down to a single page - the handy hints and tips remain on a seperate page. this gives me 6 pages for the new build, which I have started to write up. Hope that helps.
Dave. PS really pleased to see that people have found the original build diary helpful, I often wondered if I was wasting my time with all that typing. |
welcome back and good luck with the new build. I'll be watching with interest.
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Been well busy recently, now got the engine and box out of the donor car. What a complete nightmare. The Ford 4 pots are as light as a feather by comparison. Got it done after about 5 ours of brutal manhandling. It is now in the workshop sat by the chassis and in a position where I can take proper measurements from it. I can see problems ahead as it is such a massive lump. Looks like I am going to be able to sit it further back than I thought, which should be good for weight distribution. I have updated my web site - all the latest piccies here: http://www.deepfolly.co.uk/4.html
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So do you have an idea of what you want it to look like?
It's a mighty big engine, and a might tough rear end. TT |
That is one almighty beasty
Arfon |
TT, it is going to have elements from an enlarged MG TC and some elements from a 1950's Singer that I saw at a show earlier in the year. It will have running boards and sweeping arches, the back will be fairly steeply sloped. I have to accept the fact that my sheet metal working skills are very limited so there will be a lot of straight panels. I have an idea to use VW beetle wings to give me some basis for some shape and form. I will be going to Newark autojumble at the weekend to seek some inspiration. I think the biggest issue for me from the appearance point of view is the engine cooling. The front may have to be wider than I would like due to the massive radiator required. The front will be tapered so if I can get the engine far enough back I can also get the rad back and then make the very front a bit narrower - hope that makes sense?
Arf - it is indeed an almighty beast. At some point the heads have to come off so I can replace the valve stem oil seals - not a job that I am looking forward to. A special tool is needed to get the heads off these monsters as they have studs running through water ways, which corrode and stop the head from lifting off. I figure it will be much easier to do with the lump bolted in to the chassis. I am now waiting for some saw blades for my reciprocating saw, can't do much more until they arrive. Best and all that, Dave. |
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It is of course also a question of money, because these radiators are not cheap, but that is road I would explore. PWR Europe is in the UK. If you need more info, don't hesitate to contact me. Hope this help :) |
Thanks for that Sylvain, having a custom rad would be a bit outside of my planned budget. Mrs Enoch might punch me in the face if I tried that one. The Jag radiator quite weird in the way it is configured as it appears to be a bit like 2 radiators in one. I am going to have a good look at the workshop manual as I am thinking that maybe 2 rads in a V shape with the point at the front of the car may work quite well, if I can work out how to do it. There are lots of things I intend to work out as I go - it's probably not the best way to do it but it's just the way I kind of enjoy working.
Today I got to take out the dash, gear selector, speedo cable and steering column - not many donor parts left in the car now. Tomorrow I hope to get the front chassis cross member cut so I can slide the engine back to where it should sit. I can then start finalising some measurements and begin cutting metal for the front end. Happy days indeed:D |
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