I agree with the crimping comments, not as bad as some people make out but a proper ratchet crimping tool is absolutely essential

Saying that im just finishing off my wiring now and any joints have been soldered then covered in heat shrink

Technically speaking properly crimped joints are better than soldered. But that is assuming you use suitable sized crimps for the cable, which incorporate strain relief for the cable. However, weatherproofing can be problematic so personally for vehicle wiring i prefer neatly soldered, heatshrinked immobilised joints as well.

In my experience, soldered joints only fail when they are a bit bulky and exposed to vibration.

Slightly more on topic, and I hate to sound pessimistic to superlooms about all this but it sounds a lot like you are selling bundles of wire. Have you got any pictures of the made up looms? What are they loomed in? sleeving, spirawrap, flex conduit?

Cheers
Chris

I am by trade an electronic engineer. I did a 4 year apprenticeship at the Royal Aircraft establishment Farnborough. In all my time there I don't think I ever crimped a connection on any aircraft, it was always soldered and sleeved. Every cable was tied in to a loom, we spent months learning how to lace up a loom correctly. I would always solder and sleeve wherever possible, a decent sleeved joint is impervious to water ingress, a crimped connector is not. Either that or don't drive under water :)

Which is what I was always tought.

TT

Too true, but where the soldered joint becomes a short length of solid cable which 'can' be damaged by vibration the crimped joint adds support by crimping to the insulation as well as the copper.

[quote=Enoch;27757]I would always solder and sleeve wherever possible. [\QUOTE]

As would i. But i would make sure, as you say, that the joint is then correctly loomed and supported.

Chris

Thanks for all your comments...
I have now returned from holiday so back online more often
Again with regards to crimping/soldering. We will supply connectors to join our pieces of kit, i.e. front and rear, so we will crimp half of what needs crimping. The rest is your decision, if you prefer to solder, thats all down to you
As for is all we sell a bundle of wires?
Yes we sell virtually all the wires needed in our kit, except some big wires with are optionally extras, but we also include a few different types of diagrams to make it as easy as possible for you to install the kit. We also supply a fusebox and relay holders...
I am still ironing out some details and i have no pictures to show you at the moment but as soon as i do, i will post them on here.
Am currently looking at different solutions for fuse boxes and relay parts and ordering various parts from different companies to compare. Also still finishing all the diagrams, hopefully within the next week. The diagrams will be completed.
Have edited the first post, our kit has slightly changed:
Our sections are slightly different now:
Front - Engine/Lights mainly
Rear - Lights, Fuel, Handbrake mostly
Instruments Section
Fusebox/Relay Section

As we have realised its easier to understand this way
Look forward to any more suggestions
Thanks
SuperLooms

I see you have not put a location in your profile.
Can I just ask where you are based.

David

Sorry, Will do that now... UK - Essex - Chelmsford area

Just seen this thread so my 2p worth,

Crimping is the preferred choice of connections but if any builders are using this method if you get a syringe and electric grease and inject a small amount of grease into the terminal before pushing together it will stop any future corrosion of the connector.

AndrewH

Wiring Kit Pictures
 

Hi Guys,
Sorry i forgot to post some pictures.
Here is the ebay link with a picture of a kit:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...#ht_600wt_1041
Regards
Ed