the car was designed to run on 15inch wheels. if you want smaller then downsize the rear carrier at the bottom

I bought some 17" Toora's last year with two new P-Zero's and two other good tyres for £130 delivered. The PZ's new are worth 80+ each and the other tyres about half that. so £240 of tyres. The wheels were just somethign to keep teh tyres on ;)

I got some mondeo 15's for my Sierra for £70, wheels are worth maybe £20 for the lot but had a full set of good tyres.

Also have a nice set of 17" OZ Super t's that came with good tyres for £128



HAve a set of OZ Polaris 17's with shot tyres, the wheels are a little scuffed but are more or less worthless, as are another set of 15's multispokes with2 worn tyres.

I could not give away a set of Sierra Azura/GT wheels even at £10 each with almost new tyres!!!

TT

Josh, if you are fitting rear discs be careful with how you weld your rear uprights together, if you do them as per the book you will not get them to fit. The drilled plates need to be at an angle so that the brake pipes and handbrake cable don't foul anything. Have a look at my website - www.deepfolly.co.uk - to see what I mean. I was lucky enough to read on here about someone who had encountered the problem before I did mine.
Enoch

I think he's already come across that problem.

TT

yes unfortunatly I brought my uprights over a year ago from 3GE as per the book design - only just got round to getting the chassis on its wheels. Shame it doesn't mention in the book that it was designed for 15" wheels!

I'll see how I get on with the calipers, I've red that someone managed to get them on by swapping sides and putting them upside down... If I can't make it work then there may be a pair of (useless) uprights going up on eBay :(

Only 2 models of sierra ever came on 15's tooo..

TT

Josh

No need to scrap them - why not find a local engineering company with a big lathe to machine the plates out and then buy some new ones to weld in. Should be a simple job as you could hold the back of the tube in a 3-jaw and then bore the plate out.Unfortunately my lathe isn't big enough otherwise I would offer to do them for you.

I would imagine that by the time you have paid for the setup, enginering time, new plate, etc... your not going to save a vast amount over replacement components.

TT

One of the lathes at the school my dad teaches at is probably big enough to take the uprights actually... I'd just be worried about getting it ballenced? That lot swinging round might generate some nasty forces???! :eek:

You should be ok as even though the weight 'either side' of the tube are different they should help balance each other out.Just take it slow to start with and see what you are happy machining at. You might also want to look at tack welding your new plate in the opposite end to provide some more support for gripping. Alternatively you could clamp the upright to the mill and bore through (slow!!) or put it on a rotary table, get a cutter and rotate the upright cutting out the inside. Personally I would go for the lathe option as it is the quickest!