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-   -   couple of questins about engine height and sump (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=4410)

flyerncle 6th June 2010 10:15 AM

This may help,set the ground clearance from chassis to floor at the front on some blocks at about 5 ins and the rear at about 6 1/2ins,see what sump clearance you have and possibly fit wings to sump to increase capacity lost through cutting the bottom off. Adding 25 mm brackets to top chassis rails and adding the same to panel/scuttle/noscone height etc will give you more under bonnet clearance.

And replace the exhaust manifold bolts with studs as they always failed on the SD1 of a million years ago.

Good luck.

dan_g8 6th June 2010 10:46 AM

thanks Ginge that post was exactly what i was after. using this and flyerncle's idear ill chop the sump next week. am i correct in thinking the sump should be about 25mm below the chassis?

Dan

gingea1pom 6th June 2010 11:21 AM

Dan,

Here to help mate(cheesy grin smilly)

Try a serch using the key word 'sump'.

I can't at the moment as I am on my mobile.

Cheers Ginge

flyerncle 6th June 2010 01:16 PM

Consider keeping it level with bottom of the gearbox Dan,you could always fit a bash plate to bottom of it to help if hit.

Should go pretty well when finished !!:eek:

HandyAndy 6th June 2010 06:21 PM

Just be aware,
if you raise the height of the upper chassis rails to increase height of the bonnet...........

If you decide to use GRP side panels then they are designed to fit the standard chassis height of 355mm,
and also the nosecone is shaped to also fit the same dimensions,
yes you can raise the position of the scuttle but just wanted to highlight that the GRP sides & nose are made to be a snug fit ;)

hope this helps in some way.

By the way, mighty impressive engine bay :cool:

cheers
andy

rincewind23 7th June 2010 10:02 AM

Hey Dan, what gearbox are you using?

I've got the same engine but it came from a Landy and the gearbox is 4wd, which after some discussions on hear I have come to the conclusion I can't easily convert to the 2wd version.

Also, are you using the stock chassis, or a McSorley 442?

Cheers,
KEv.

dan_g8 7th June 2010 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rincewind23 (Post 39768)
Hey Dan, what gearbox are you using?

I've got the same engine but it came from a Landy and the gearbox is 4wd, which after some discussions on hear I have come to the conclusion I can't easily convert to the 2wd version.

Also, are you using the stock chassis, or a McSorley 442?

Cheers,
KEv.

i am using the standard haynes chassis the only modification that i have done is use 2mm thick box not the 1.6mm and i havent put the diagnal support in the engine bay (because as you can see from the photos there is not alot of room). i would also advise that you make the tranny tunnel about 20mm wider, its a squeeze to fit the gearbox in.

The gearbox i am using is an lt77 from a tr7. im using this mainly because 5th gear is a better ratio (its an overdrive gear really) compared to the other lt77 boxes.

RAYLEE29 7th June 2010 02:09 PM

hi, that looks good but alittle too high to me.
im sure you can get it lower i think theres people on locostbuilders that have rv8's in locost chassis so it is possible, but if you leave it that high youll run into allsorts of problems.
Ray:)

dan_g8 7th June 2010 04:50 PM

i agree that its too high, currently i havent chopped the sump. I wanted to get the engine in so i was clear on how much i need to take off the sump thanks to Ginge i can now see that i need to chop about 1.5 - 2 inches off of the sump which will bring it down.


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