I think d12 defo needs to stay otherwise all the rs cage has no bracing, I think baz ment removing d13 to make more room. If my posts seem short the power pack on the lap is dead I'm using the ps3 which is slow without a key board.

d12 and d13 work as one piece im leaving mine put especially with the power im planning to stuff up its backside. each to their own though

Take a swizz at the rear end of the Striker.....not much there yet one of the best kits out there and why so many get used for racing.

completely different rear end design though mark. on the striker the wishbones mount to the triangular frame which supports the back of the car and the diff hangs off the seat back rails. on the roadster the rearbox that supports the rear weight of the car hangs off the same spot on the seat back rails as the diff. d12 and d13 spread the weight up to the upper seat back rail and the suspension turrets taking some of the strain off the lower seat back rails.

horses for courses but if d13 wasnt needed it wouldnt be there simples as that.

btw haynes validate all the designs before going to print so its been well scrutinised for strength. the single seater is already on its third revision due to input from haynes

i dont disagree with you mark the striker chassis as a proper bit of kit but its pushing the boundary and is a bit risky for an inexperienced home build, the roadster was designed for home build and as such was well over engineered to compensate for poor welding and construction.

i dont have a copy of the book on me at the moment, but when you run a fiberglass rear end everything is cut off from the diff cage back im assunimg not reducing the strength, so would it not be possible to remove the two 19mm diagonals that go from the diff cage to the bottom of the rear tub hoop and just have a long tank in there with many baffles?????? just wondering

When fitting a GRP rear tub, the only parts from the original "Book Plans" that are removed are RP1, RP2 & RP3,s, (basically the round tube framework),

The parts D13,s are still used, tho are a slightly different dimension that then are attached to a 99cm length of 25mm box tube(known as GRP1) from the original mounting position on the diff cage,there are also 2 new lengths of 25mm box tube (known as GRP2,s,) welded into position from RS14 to the new GRP1 part,
so the strength is still there as per original "Book Spec", just without the round tubes that would normally support the Ali tub, as the GRP tub is "in a way" self supporting & attached to the chassis along the base of GRP1 & to D11,s & D9,D10.

cheers
andy

Ash,
How close is the single seater now? has it been run yet? busting to see what it looks like...:cool:

last time i spoke to chirs he was looking to iva it in jan. could be a bit delayed though as he has been poorly again.

my plan is to make a longer tank ditch d13 (i think thats the name of the bottom 19mm tube from diff cage to lower round tube) use grp frame to hold the tank and still fit a metal back end there was only two little strips of metal there witch now have been replaced buy a nice box frame to hold the uprated tank.
there are other ways to put d13 strength back in but as its all tied into the roll bar anyway i dont think theres much to worry about.

Stirring up an old thread. No one has mentioned actual capacity here,how much does the standard tank hold? Has anyone built a bigger tank?

Bob