Sounds like a very good option :)
Could you post pictures of it when it is finished? I'd really like to see how it looks.
Thank you.

No problem i'll take one tonight before painting.

This is my New (Sylvain) Pedal Box.
I have made one modification to the design this being a piece if 25 x 25m 6mm plate with an M6 thread tapped through it 15mm from the pedal face and inline with the centre of the pedal.

One half of the bush, I made these out of Nylon.


The Three pedals.


The modification.


Front View of the pedals in place.


Any feedback or your oppinions are welcome.

Regards
Dean

Side View of the pedals in place.


Dean

Looking great Dean :cool:

Tho, may I suggest ....

To use hex headed bolts on the pivot & stop/adjusters, as , Once you have your side panels fitted its not easy getting into the footwell with TWO hands, so if hex headed bolts are used you can place a ring spanner on the head which will find a STOP so that you can either undo or adjust the actual nut, similar for the "adjuster bolts" ....as you,d need to depress the pedal to get an allen key into your current setup, would be easier to adjust if hex headed bolts were used ...
IMHO of course :)

cheers
andy

Thats a decent looking pedal box but there will be a problem if those bolts are used to adjust the final pedal heights. The clutch and brake masters need to come right back to their max on release to take in any fluid in and it really is at the very back. If for any reason either system needed a top up it would not get it. On the range rovers they used a eccentric sleeved bolt through the pedal which rotated to adjust final pedal height so that might be an option. Just thoughts

Bob

I meant to say they would be changed they were the only ones i could get that were long enough from work.
Well spotted Andy.