me thinks you should have gone CA like me I thought mine would be bad but I would not like to be behind you on a gravel road (me thinks helicopter mini gun)
will sound nice bud, nothing like a rb growl (cept for a CA scream of course:D )

yey my r34 gtr plenum arived today Happy days!

Damn! gearbox issues now....... Wish i could just bolt a type 9 onto it!
see my problem.....?




The big fella is the standard rb25det gearbox. The nice small 30kg ligheter one is from a rb25de. Think i can get away with the non turbo gearbox with a light car?
Man those box's are long as well going to need to change gear with my elbow!

I would expect you should be fine with the smaller box, the car will break traction before enough torque is generated to do damage.

TT

Its not how long it is, its what you do with it that counts! Fnar Fnar

cool stuff well all i have to do now is find one along with a rb25de flywheel clutch preasure plate and all the other crap lol. going to cost me a fotrune but worth it :D

right! got 24m of 25x25x2 erw box.
Have found a gearbox,dif,prop, clutch,flywheel, pressure plate, slave cyl that will fit perfect! now just got to haggle a price lol

sweet! got gearbox, slave cyl,fork,diff,prop,drive shafts,flywheel, clutch,preassure plate, spigot bearing and release bearing. £400 quid collecting tomorrow :D so yeah will now have a full drivetrain wooooooo

Finaly started! Bought a front frame from Andy way too much bother to make one myself lol should arive tomorrow.



Had to make the rear box first then did a few tacks to hold it together then moved it into its new home. Engine bay stretch causing more trouble lol :D

comming on quickly :)

TT

in ref to br1-12 when it says... "when you are happy with the fit of these tubes, tack weld them together, working on one side of the chassis then the other to minimise any distortion" do they mean tack every tube on 1 side then tack ever weld on the other? as i personaly would normaly do 1 tack on 1 side then 1 on the other to keep it even. Advice welcome!

Also when should i fully weld as i need to move the chassis from the jig to do the rear end. Also i dont have the gearbox or diff yet so i cant do the tunnel enterance or exit yet (end next week)

Are the front frame uprights ment to run parallel down the length of the frame? having a bit of trouble with a complete front frame i bought. If i get the top level its way way out on the 75mm from the front measurement. and also 1mm too low. if i pull it forward on the top it goes to the right hight but the ff4 has a slope. Guess i should untack it and check to make sure its true. Damn really wanted to not have to mess around with the front frame. Also i think its slightly twisted if i get the front dead level the the top ends of f4 are slightly off by about 3mm from each other. Just check the elbows of the bends and ff3 is 3mil sticking out from the width of f4 and f2 is 1mil sticking out. Maby its me i duno what do you guys think? Good news is the frame base is all tacked now. Did a tack then did another on other side.. must have walked miles lol

Can anyone post a pic of the join between u3 and u6 i cant tell from the book how they are ment to be aligned. :D

Right finished making new front frame all sorted fits perfect first time with no messing around :D Installed one of the top rails to test and was perfect no gaps at all. Feel well chuffed as was worried about making my own front frame heh. What a day! right time for lots of beer tv and bed lol
Oh and for anyone who cares here is a pic. (note old frame on floor! lol might chop it up for extra metal)

humm can anyone tell me when i should start to fully weld this beast :D i notice that the seat back sb1 will cover the unwelded join of br13-br5/6. Also i dont have the gearbox or dif yet so i cant tack sb4 yet or u7/8

Good day today got U1 and U2 sorted.
Also going to get my gearbox tomorrow £200! for the slimline skyline gearbox.
Wed im getting 18m of 20x20x1.5mm erw box and 18m of 25x25x2mm erw box £75.
Thu im going for a little drive to pick up a diff,prop shaft,slave cyl and drive shafts for £120 oh also found these on the Locostbuilders forum.

" Front Hubs

Brand New discs when I built my car , Fitted with MK Mushroom Top Inserts
factory reconditioned brake calipers ,new Pads. Brakes have done a few hundred miles only.
£50"
+ i bought the 4 ball joints for £10

Happy days!

gearbox wooo and modded u1/2 to fit extended enginebay and still use stock wishbones.

And as if by magic 24h later! the limoster is getting there :D

Nice work Eternal :cool:

I can see where CP24 goes :D :D

cheers
andy

Some nice bits arived today aint bad for £60 including ball joints! what a fantastic buy :D

Are teh Mushrooms excentric?

TT

The mushrooms are from a MK indy so duno if i can use them.

here is a pic

The haynes is designed with eccentric mushrooms which help with the self centring of the steering which is vital for the iva test.

They look offset just check its the correct ammount

They look fine, as you rotate them the offset will increase (usually need them fully forward) then set the camber with the drag link.

Calipers look nice......;)

AndyH

I was going to say that the correct amount is a function of the rotation + camber adjustment.

But Spud beat me to it :)

TT

sweet. well if they are not right i can get the haynes ones so no big deal. Here are the ball joints i have to admit im well chuffed.

Looks like you got a real bargain there :cool:

mushrooms look ok too;)

soon be on wheels eh.

cheers
andy

They look concentric to me too, but I think the consensus is that eccentric is desirable, but not a big deal really.

The effect on the self centreing is minimal, that's mostly set by the caster, which the offset mushrooms have no effect on.

Nice thanks for the info guys :D

Well here is todays progress. Did a good 9 hours today not that it really looks like it!

I respectfully beg to differ M'Lud. They look eccentric not concentric and their effect on self centreing is a lot more than minimal as they are your only real means of adjusting the castor angle which is what generates the self centreing action.

D.

Actually no. Consider what it is that sets the caster angle, it's the line drawn between the top balljoint and the bottom balljoint, when viewed from the side. That's the axis that the hub swings around. So you can see that although the mushroom position (if it is eccentric) can have an effect on the trail, it can't affect the caster.

Tbh I find all the suspension stuff real hard will have to get some of u guys to sort it out when ready!

Eh?

if you move either top or bottom locating point fore/aft then the castor changes as the relation of centerline to the vertical has changed.

TT

The thing to consider here is that the Sierra upright is being used, this is designed for a Macpherson strut, so when used in our application provides a few "issues"

The picture below shows why, the diagram on the left is the hub using a concentic (in line) insert, the right with eccentric (offset) insert. Both have the upper and lower pivot points in the same place, the only difference is the insert used.



As you can see, with a concentric insert the centre line of the stub axle is forward of the line drawn between the pivot points (castor angle), moving it above the the lower pivot. This reduces the trail, this is what gives self centering. By using an eccentric insert you can see that this rotates the hub backwards around the lower pivot to get the stub axle back in line with the line drawn between the pivot points, therefore increasing trail and improving self centering. Castor is only increased by moving the upper pivot point backwards, either by moving the whole upper wishbone or by making a new one.

Hopefully all that make sense.

Kind regards

John.

Yes of course you are all correct. I blame Mr Carlsberg:o .

D.

Still a little confused, surely the excentric adapter has the effect of moving the topmounting location, If you rotate the muchroom 180 degrees the position of the upright centerline moves forward/backwards a centimeter or so in relation to the top balljoint ..

TT

If you view the chassis from the top you'll see that the ball joints give you a dimension, shown here as X, this is the castor when viewed from the top.

This dimension doesn't change when you fit the inserts (either type) what happens is you move the upright around. It's the line drawn between the ball joints that determines castor, the centre line through the hub will change, but has no effect on the castor.

Kind regards

John

Yes you're right John, but it still helps with the self centering of the steering. Not as much as a normal production car but enough to pass IVA and give you some return to center.

Cheers....Andy

Everything is a compromise, but in this case all the parts are fixed and we are trying to put into words what the eccentric inserts do as these are the only parts that can be changed, basically they increase trial for this set up, which is what centres the wheels. Shopping trollies are a good example of trail being used for self centering, thay have zero castor so when push in a direction the wheel will turn to the correct path (self centering) If you've had one that's had a knock, the trail is upset and the wheel wobbles from side to side trying to self center.

If you wish to increase castor you need to move the whole upper wishbone back or the lower one forward. Castor is what gives the car a steady feeling when driving along the road, greater caster angles serve to improve straight-line stability, they also cause an increase in steering effort.

Hopefully that makes things clearer.

Kind regards

John