Looks Lovely, and the mainfold looks like ti will work out gr8.

TT

I've got a spare 1.8 and 2.0 plastic inlet if you want one? :)

Ronnie

I've got a 2.0l mondeo throttle body if you want it? Yours for the postage.

Cheers

Adrian

Thank's guy's
 

Thank you David & Adrian, the offers of help mean a great deal to me & yes, I would be happy to cover any sending costs :)

Have a trip to the breakers planned for Monday .... Needing to find a pair of suitable steering couplings so as I can decide what size pillow block bearing to order ( Need a bearing to re-route the steering shaft )

If I fail to aquire what I need, i'll shout up chaps :D

The alloy manifold was never used on the mondeo. Yours is from a 115ps 1.8 as it says SO on the back. They did a HO for the 130ps in the rs and xr3i's ect. these have bigger ports and a 2L size Tb and fetch good money as there arnt that many about. There is another without the So or Ho stamp and they where fitted to the 105 ps 1.8 and the 1.6 engines.

What engine managment are you using ? it will run reall nice on the ford one ;)

Westfield used to sell a plenum that would fit the Tb and clear the bonnet. It was thought to be a peugeot part.

Dead right
 

You are spot on there Big Wasa :)

My 1.8 Zetec engine was indeed a 115ps one from a 1992 Mk5 Escort Ghia .

Yes I am hoping to get it up & running in it's standard form, complete with the original EEC 1V management :)

I have both Megasqirt & megajolt here but at the moment I just want to get the Roadster running as easily as possible.

My Vauxhall Red top engine is still calling to me .... I will save all the upgrading for a later date ;)

Been scouring the breakers for ages for the 130ps set up .... You never know one may turn up at some point :)

Ask on the XROC forum, somone may have the bits..

TT

Cheers TT
 

Thanks for that Rob :)

I'll fire the engine up as standard & have a little tinker :D

Have read on some forum's, that fitting a 2 litre throttle body & cams, will get the 115ps engine running at 130ps !!??

Don't know if there is any truth in that .... I guess the 115ps ECU may object to those changes :confused:

Hope to be starting on the engine wiring in the next week or so, sure i'll be bending your ear about the few wires from the ECU, that do not go directly to the engine harness :o

If your running closed loop lambda control then th ECU should manage to keep the fueling in trim.

TT

I wouldnt worry to much about the 130 manifold. The ports are bigger but the casting is rough.

Once running on the standard ecu you wont want to bother with the Ms.

That should take care of idle and cruising speeds, but AFAIK the ECUs break out of closed loop mode once the throttle is more than halfway open.

!!!???!!!
 

I was with you right up to the bit where you said the " Closed loop lambda control " bit :D :o

Guessing that this is a standard function to the OEM's lambda sensor & ecu ??

Albert

That part of the engine management is still a mystery to me at the moment !!

When I get to the engine running side of things, i'll get my " Going back to school " head on

__________________________________________________ _____________

Had a good trip to the breakers yesterday.

Managed to find the correct 1.8/2.0 litre, plastic inlet manifold, as was said, a fair bit of size difference to the inlets.
Also collected 1.8 & 2.0 litre throttle bodys + a 2.0 litre injector rail, complete with injectors.

Junior went arround & collected me a good assortment of steering knuckles for my steering shaft mod.

Ohhh & a replacement drivers seat for my eldest's Escort van .

The final tally was £20 for the whole lot, well pleased with that as £10 of that was for the seat :)

MOT for my Jeep tomorrow, I guess that will curtail my build progress for a few days

It's really simple, Ronnie. You're right, it's a function of a stock ECU with a lambda sensor. Most aftermarket ECUs do this as well. Closed Loop is when the ECU adjusts fuelling in a feedback loop: too much unburnt oxygen in the exhaust -- increase fuel, too little -- decrease fuel. This way the engine operates very close to the ideal stoichiometric air/fuel ratio by constantly oscillating around it.

BTW, here's a nice site about Ford EFI systems with a gentle introduction:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/

I'm going to try and get the stock ECU to work, too.

Thank you Albert
 

Thank you for that link :cool:

I will have a darn good read of the info there :)

The zetec runs really nice on the standard ecu. Ive done 7 now I think.

I did my mates and it passed iva on that side of it first time.

Mine

If any one locall is breaking an st170 or 2.0 duratec I would love a go at wiring one of them.

All this ecu business baffles me why can't things be simple anymore...:o

They are simple :D easier than that sticky smelly resin stuff :p

It is simple.

TT

I beg to differ on that one as wiring is sent by the devil....:)

Personally, I am torn between the Two :confused:

I have the patience to mess about with wiring but I do like the smell of resin & enjoy working with the stuff :o :o

Must have a kinky streak there somewhere :D

Wiring progess so far
 

Not too much progress with the build since midweek, been a little tied up doing other things.

That said, I went out to the workshop for a tidy up & took the fancy of having a crack at wiring the engine up .... Yep, that's me .... Working in an entirely random manner.
This is probably not the best way of doing things but it make me feel good & at least it contributes towards crossing another job from the list :o

Some of you may have read in the electrics section of the forum, I ran into a wee bit of a problem !!??
This is a continuation of that thread really but being as it is some progress, I thought I would post my result's here ;)

Thinking that I would get right back to basics, I sat down the other evening & went through the ECU & Engine management diagrams.

Took a spare EEC IV plug & labeled all of the tails .... Here's a picture of the end product.



The tag's have all been checked, then double checked & thanks to Enoch, I was able to check once more from a chart that he kindly sent me :)

To be honest, when you sit down & really study the engines wiring diagrams, it is really quite straightforward ( That's going to come back & bite me !! )

My plan is to make up a custom engine loom to suit .... Just a personal preference really, that way I will have a loom that is tidy & will fit, where I want it to fit.
I guess it will also save the effort of trying to bundle up those extra feet of cable out of the way.

Next job is to do a little research into what sensor wires coming from the ECU I will not need.

A few spring to mind as possible definates .... Air conditioning wires, Power steering pressure switch, canister purge solenoid

A couple of not sure's .... Gearbox speed sensor ? & Inertia cut off switch ?

That's where I am at the moment, i'll not be working on the build for the next week, sadly I have other things that need to be done.

Keep you all posted folks.

Some of the sensors may not be needed from your point of view, but it is possible that the ecu won't like being disconnected from them. I really don't know if that would happen in your case, but it might be worth allowing for if you can't get any hard info on it.

In the case of the inertia switch, I would imagine that the ecu would want that, although you could delete if you know which way round it is and join the correct wires (IOW if the switch is normally on (my guess) or normally off)

The inertia switch usualy sits in line with the fuel pump feed to cut the pump in the event of a heavy impact or rollover.

Omiting some of he other things ( CANP ) will most likly throw a ECU error, however they will probably not affect the running. We have many sierra members running 24V Granada engines with both the Emissions gear and Autobox actuators removed. In some cases measuring the initial resistance of the Sensor or actuator and replacing it with a normal fixed resistor has worked in some instances.

TT

A very valid point indeed Mr H :)

The " Will the ECU be looking for a signal ? " has crossed my mind & as such, I need to keep an open mind on this particular subject.
Yes, I will make sure that I do as much research as possible ;)

Rob

A fixed value resistor has also crossed my mind .... I guess the trick there is finding the value the ECU is looking for.
Again, plenty of reading to do as yet :)

To be honest chaps, I am only going this route for the challenge & in the hope that I manage to learn something in the process .... Hopefully i'll learn more than just " should have left the wiring alone " :D

The canister purge does throw a code but as said doesnt stop it running and running well.

Ive got three codes on mine, all for the emmision's crap that went in the bin.

The speed sensor, I havnt used it on mine yet but may retro fit it when ive done a bit more testing. Its meant to do things like like cut the fuel on over run ect.

Counting the days
 

No time for my build since last week .... Working my way through a list of other things that needed doing

Last Saturday was a nice little trip up to Exeter show, had a grand day out indeed :cool:

Knowing I needed the workshop to make a start on the MOT work on my Jeep Monday, I had a very quick tidy up on Sunday & made a start on an aux fuel tank I had been asked to fabricate for a motor X bike

Here's the completed tank.



Not the nicest thing I have ever produced but I had a very tough brief for this little job .... Must cost very little ( Cheap ) & use whatever materials I had kicking about. :rolleyes:

I would have loved to make it in alloy to replicate the pattern given to me .... Unfortunately, out of the budget range for this particular jobby.
Guess it didn't turn out too bad in view of the limited materials available !!??

Jeep went through it's re-test this morning so that's that job out of the way until next year.

This afternoon saw my eldest's tatty Escort van enter the workshop for MOT work, I ain't kidding, it's a minger !!
Told him last year that was the last MOT for it but here we are once again !!??
All of my favourite jobs to do ( NOT ) Spring hangers to weld, lower wishbone & CV boot to change .... Rest of the job's are quickies.

That will definately be the last MOT job I do until next autumn.

As per title, counting the days down so as I can get back to work on the Roadster .... I have a strong urge to get the engine up & running real soon :D

All change
 

Firstly, I can't believe that it has been over 8 months since I last made any real progress with my build !!??

Last weekend saw the arrival of our 4th Grandchild .... A healthy little girl named Chloe :)

Being as the wife is now clucky clucky I have taken full advantage of the situation & in true Bonzo style, I have ditched work on the kitchen n hidden myself away in the workshop .... Well, we can't have that little one breathing in all of that nasty dust & things can we ? :D

Now to the point of this post.

All change on the engine front, out with the Zetec & in with the Vauxhall C20XE Redtop engine.

Here's a couple of progress pictures.







The engine is now more or less where I want it to be but I have a few niggles to overcome !!??

Front of the engine is a tad too high for the GRP bonnet

Not much room for the air intake using the stock inlet manifold.

Fuel pressure regulator is going to get in the way, no big deal as I can bypass that & fit my aftermarket fuel regulator unit.

I had given some thought into lowering the engine a little more but the Omegas bell housing is already 30mm below the chassis rails & after reading Rob's recent thread, lowering the engine further might not be a good idea !!

I have a fair bit of room to move the engine further over towards the passenger side, the crankshaft more or less follows the centre line of the chassis at the moment.
If I move the engine off centre, how will this affect the dynamics of the car ??
It would certainly give me more room to fit the air intake.

Don't know if anyone has any thoughts on the subject of engine alignment.

Hope to get a little more done over the weekend.

First uj on the prop will allow for any "misalignment" of the crank in any direction
oh and nice to see you back to PROPER work:D go Ronnie go go go;)

Nice choice of engine!
I have a modded X20XEV sat in the corner of my garage at the moment which I am considering using if I go down the Sierra route.
I'm waiting to see the Saturn MX-5 plans first, although I'm certain which route I go down will depend greatly on the availability of the donor.
Really struggling to find a Sierra for the kind of money I want to pay (not very much)!! :)

Are you using an Omega Gearbox or a Ford Type9 with the Belhousing adapter?

Kinda of my line of reason Kev

I didn't realy enjoy the first day or so back on the build but have now managed to catch a healthy dose of enthusiasm :cool:

I have seen a few pictures of 7's fitted with an offset engine so I guess the prop should be able to cope !!??

Looking at the photos, if I can shift the engine 20mm ish over to the passenger side, I can probably get that engine 75 - 100 mm further back & that would probably resolve the bonnet clearance issue.

Just thinking aloud here ..... Would the engine offset to the passenger side better ballance the car ??
Just thinking, all the heavy stuff like the starter, alternator & inlet manifold is on the drivers side of the engine.


BORNXenon

Thought about buying a bell housing for the type 9 gearbox but in the end went for the type R25-R28 Omega box that came out of a 2.5 litre v6 Omega :)

Its a good strong box, I believe they also used it attached to the 3.2v6 in the elite models, should handle quite a bit of poke.

Hey bonzo :) may i ask a little question regarding your clutch,

as you may know I too am using this gearbox along with my x25xe and was wondering what sort of master cylinder to slap on. do you reckon a non integral master would work just fine? :)

Michael

Hi Michael

To be honest, I havn't delved too far into the best clutch master cylinder to use.

Managed to sort out Borg & Beck clutch kit but sill need to sort out a spacer for the concentric slave cylinder, then decide on what master cylinder will give me the throw needed.

My gut feeling is that I will not need too big a master cylinder & kinda hope that the Volvo one I have sitting on my shelf may do the trick :)

If all else fails, I am sure these guys will have the answer ;)

QED Motorsport

Not touched my build for quite a while but will try & keep this tread up to date :)

have got a 0.75 on mine but im thinking of changing it to a 0.65 over winter as its a bit heavy to be honest

oh and ronnie... that xe is screaming throttle bodies at me :D

Cheers Ash
 

Much thanks for the info :)

The Volvo MC is quite small, I suspect quite close to .65

Got a set of Fireblade throttle bodies & MS here, that said the Fireblade ones are probably a bit small for the Redtop engine.

Was Kinda giving some thought into Jenveys for an easy life, gonna cost a packet though :eek: