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-   -   My chassis build (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=2189)

londonsean69 18th August 2009 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geeman (Post 20343)
I cant remember what the nut on top of the track rod ends are called, the one that looks like a castle and should have a locking pin or somthing:confused: ? i need them but dont want to pay ford a fortune?

It's a castellated nut. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castellated_nut
I'm fitting new track rod ends and they have come with a nyloc nut instead.

Quote:

Originally Posted by geeman (Post 20343)
Also, will i ever need a tap and die set throughout the duration of hte build, ad aldi have a set for a bargin price and i want to buy it, but not sure ill need it. (see here)

Dunno about a generic tap and die set, but they are always useful to have.
Cheap ones are generally sh1t, but if you only use them once in a blue moon....
I have a complete 3 piece tap set, plus the die for M14x2 (track rod ends) because I turned my own adjusters. It was a cheapy from the fleabay but has done the job fine
I also have a half decent (£60) set of taps and dies for more normal sized stuff.

Quote:

Originally Posted by geeman (Post 20343)
I also wondered about my brake master cylinder, as the end of it is too big for the pedal box?(ill take some pics later) Oh yeah, and what did people use for the bushes on the pedals(i remember reading a thread about it on hhear somwhere but can find it). I might turn my own bushes later on when i have access to a lathe, but if they are very cheap ill just buy em. Thanks!

No idea on MC, haven't got that far yet.

I used PTFE (teflon) bar for the bushes in my pedals (turned myself) Just search fleabay for PTFE rod

Quote:

Originally Posted by geeman (Post 20343)
wow.. i have soooo many questions:rolleyes: :o

That's what this place is for:D

Sean

geeman 18th August 2009 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by londonsean69 (Post 20376)
It's a castellated nut. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castellated_nut
I'm fitting new track rod ends and they have come with a nyloc nut instead.


Dunno about a generic tap and die set, but they are always useful to have.
Cheap ones are generally sh1t, but if you only use them once in a blue moon....
I have a complete 3 piece tap set, plus the die for M14x2 (track rod ends) because I turned my own adjusters. It was a cheapy from the fleabay but has done the job fine
I also have a half decent (£60) set of taps and dies for more normal sized stuff.


No idea on MC, haven't got that far yet.

I used PTFE (teflon) bar for the bushes in my pedals (turned myself) Just search fleabay for PTFE rod



That's what this place is for:D

Sean

Thanks Sean!!

oh, yeah, what is the thread size for the rack rod ends nut, or would a motor factor be able to provide me with them if i ask for ford sierra ones?

londonsean69 19th August 2009 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geeman (Post 20387)
Thanks Sean!!

oh, yeah, what is the thread size for the rack rod ends nut, or would a motor factor be able to provide me with them if i ask for ford sierra ones?

The steering rack threads are M14x2, at least on the MK2 Escort rack. IIRC the rod ends on the MK1 Escort rack are an imperial thread.

As for the thread on the actual ball joint that goes on the end of the rack into the upright - no idea - and mine are down the garage. I can measure them later for you, but I cannot guarantee 100% they will be the same. If you buy the tap and die set, they usually come with a thread pitch indicator, so you can measure it.

Sean

geeman 19th August 2009 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by londonsean69 (Post 20394)
The steering rack threads are M14x2, at least on the MK2 Escort rack. IIRC the rod ends on the MK1 Escort rack are an imperial thread.

As for the thread on the actual ball joint that goes on the end of the rack into the upright - no idea - and mine are down the garage. I can measure them later for you, but I cannot guarantee 100% they will be the same. If you buy the tap and die set, they usually come with a thread pitch indicator, so you can measure it.

Sean

thanks, reason i was asking is im pretty sure its not metric as i have an assortment of metric nuts and none of them fitted. Thanks

londonsean69 19th August 2009 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geeman (Post 20396)
thanks, reason i was asking is im pretty sure its not metric as i have an assortment of metric nuts and none of them fitted. Thanks

OK, so, just to confirm - which thread is it you want measuring? Is it the one on the actual track rod end, that will fit into the Sierra upright, then it get's a castellated nut?

Sean

geeman 19th August 2009 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by londonsean69 (Post 20397)
OK, so, just to confirm - which thread is it you want measuring? Is it the one on the actual track rod end, that will fit into the Sierra upright, then it get's a castellated nut?

Sean

oh whoops, i think ive gotten cunfused about which one the track rod end was, but i meant the one that is on the ball joint that goes into the upright. I know the otherone is an m14 thread. Thanks

londonsean69 19th August 2009 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geeman (Post 20399)
oh whoops, i think ive gotten cunfused about which one the track rod end was, but i meant the one that is on the ball joint that goes into the upright. I know the otherone is an m14 thread. Thanks

OK, no probs - but if it's not metric I can't measure it.

I'll measure mine, but I only have metric tooling, and if you are re-using the existing ones then it is also possible that they have a different thread

Sean

londonsean69 19th August 2009 06:26 PM

OK I have just measured the thread that is below the taper on the steering rack end.

It's not metric:( so I can't give an exact dimension, sorry.

The thread diameter is 9.6mm, and the pitch is a little coarser than 1.25mm.

The only imperial tap I have is 7/16UNF, which is bigger all around than the rod-end. Sorry I couldn't be more help. I'm sure somebody who started in engineering/mechanics earlier than me must be able to measure in Imperial.

Could you not just replace the castellated nut with a nyloc?? (Once you know what thread it is). Where were you going to get the right bolt? Could you not take the part there and get the right one?

Sean

flyerncle 19th August 2009 07:22 PM

I think Geeman is on about the Transit drag link end for the top ball joint.
Just remember if using a castellated nut what ever you are fitting it to must have a hole in it to lock it with a split pin, so the Nylock is more usefull.

geeman 19th August 2009 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyerncle (Post 20426)
I think Geeman is on about the Transit drag link end for the top ball joint.
Just remember if using a castellated nut what ever you are fitting it to must have a hole in it to lock it with a split pin, so the Nylock is more usefull.

i should try to explain myself abit better next time:o . I did mean the nut on the lower ball joint that goes on the steering rack. i always thought those were called the track rod ends.:o :confused: ah well.


today i only spent about an hour on the car, but took everything off it so its jsut a bare chassis. Its amazing how much quicker it is to take things apart compared to putting it together. I hope to go over every weld soon and fit remaining chassis plates. ill paint the remaining wishbones and rear uprights, and try to clean up as many parts as i can.

also anyone had experience of powder coated alloys, as im looking to buy some wheels and found a set someone has had powder coated black, but im not too sure about it?

Thanks


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