Johno,

I have got one of those 90 degree bends as well. I may have to add a small bubble so st speak to the transmission tunnel panel as it will be very close. i can see it banging all the time and not sure if the iva man would like it touching.

*** Please could you also measure the distance from the centre of the rear wheel to the front of the rear wing. I am looking at putting my exhaust in place and dont want it to interfere once the bodywork is attached.***

Thanks

David

Hi David,
Would like to help in the exhaust dept but rear wings not fitted yet...:o
Do you know which kit you are going for yet?

Well it's time I posted a progress update I guess.
Just about finished the electrics up front with a couple of exceptions. So I thought I would have a break from all that electrickery and do some fabrication and bolt parts on.

Pressed up my front grilles and bonded them in place this weekend.




Used "TigerSeal" to bond the grilles to the GRP and don't think they will be going anywhere soon...

My Christmas present finally arrived....LOL
A Dax Rush bonnet scoop and I must say the finish is superb.



Was a bit concerned when I found out the scoop was the exact same length as my bonnet.......LOL

Well computer or something is playing up so no descriptions just a few photos...

Most likely the agm one. I am going to try my hand at making a Grp wind deflector similar to the Saturn one. It seemed to be very effective up to about 80mph

Still a bit worried about the bonnet not fitting? May use a scoop to hide and necessary hole!

David

Hi David,
Have you had a look at Aerodynamix products. http://www.aerodynamix.co.uk/grp-and...roscreens.html

Looks like some good products on there....:cool:

On my car the bonnet only just touches the front leading edge of the cam cover. So now I have my scoop will be cutting a hole in the bonnet soon to clear the engine which should be pretty straight forward.... I hope...:eek:

I've been thinking about making new rear top wishbones as I'm still not happy with the ones I currently have...

I've came up with two options..

Option 1.

Inboard Rose Joints with the shock mount inline with the upright, which I think would put less load on the Rose joints.




Option 2.

Rose joints outboard mounted directly to the top of the upright with inboard poly bushes. The shock mount will not be inline with the upright as option 1.The Rose joints will be 12mm reduced down to 10mm to suit MX5 upright. I'm guessing this will put a lot more load on the joints but will it be too much or Ok?



I'm using the Ultra strength 12mmx1.25 fine thread joints from McGill Motorsports.

Any input good or bad will be most helpful.

Well I've been researching a bit on the net and think I'll be going with option 1. :)
This should keep the loading on the Rose joints to a minimum.
I guess only time and miles will tell...:eek:

hazard switch
 

Johno,

when you wired in the hazard switch did you find it only had 2 wires for the switch and 2 for ilumination.

I was planning on using the original mx5 switch and somehow removing the pop up headlight button that is on the same unit. When my mate came around last night he decided to look inside and now i have massive pile of various springs and connectors!!

i am now going to wire in a new switch but all the switches i've seen seem to have about 7 terminals

If you know the colours that would be fantastic (although judging by my loom they could easily be a different colour)

David

Hi David,
If I remember correctly there should be an orange wire from the relay which is earthed through the switch... Hope that helps.:)