mine is the same as yours andy. my reverse switch is very close to tt4. so much so that when i removed the engine after the test fit i twatted it off and had to get a new one.

deezee have you tested your clutch? i only ask as when i had my engine/gb back that far it caused the clutch arm to hit the side of the tunnel as i pressed the pedal down.

as andy says i have a good 20mm between the bellhousing chassis.

i wish i had a pedal to press :D :o
the position was more guess work & luck, but based it on the gear stick position & the reversing switch connections.

Ash.... fancy "knocking" off the switch, tut tut :eek: :D

andy

was my own fault the engine/gb got stuck when removing it and i was getting peeeeed off. in my anger i just yanked the whole engine forward to free it off. the engine and box come out but the reverse switch got ripped off in the process.

managed to get a brand new switch for £6 so no big deal.

Ash.....

i can picture the scene :D :D

andy

No I've not :eek: I have a huge list of parts that I need to buy for my build and the clutch stuff has been well low priority, funds wise, because I didn't think it would be required until I was ready to run the engine..... after all I don't even have a prop yet.

I guess I should grab a release bearing and a cable and trial the clutch fork movement. I guess I could always shorten the clutch fork by 10mm if I had to.

i woulnt as it will be a bit too heavy. you would be better off putting a clearance crease into the tunnel pannel.

you can check it if you remove the clutch and bearing then you will be able to move the arm by hand to see if it hits.

I've got no bearing in at the mo and it clears. But its sitting on the skew, because it needs the release bearing to centralise and hold the clutch fork.