ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i understand now. Thanks :D

Tell you guys what doing the tunnel MT 10/12 is hard :D cut grind cut grind cut..............

Only a short day today. Got all the tunnel done now so i guess i can fully weld it. had 2 pings today so i think a couple of tacks have gone somewhere..... doh!
I'm so worried about welding this thing i really dont want it to twist or anything. But i def want to weld it up first as i would like to have it facing the other direction for when i build the rear end should give me loads more space.

Any hints or tips in regards to full welding the beast? should probably clamp as much down to the bench as i can. Also going to weld it fully before the diagonals to be able to get better welds

If your work bench is actually flat, and the chassis sits flat on it without being clamped to it, I see no reason why you should not remove the corner blocks and swing it round to do the rear end.

I think the rear centre of the table has sunk a bit (1mm many a little more) I sat in the chassis when I was messing with the gearbox.

Looking really nice :cool:

Nice work Eternal,

as for welding.........what I did on my own chassis was to do as Mr H has said, removed some of the small plastic blocks so that you can slide your chassis forward enough to allow you to do the rear diff cage area, as I have used GRP rear tub I didn,t have to build as per book for an Ali tub,

so what I suggest is slide your chassis forward, complete the rear end by tacking it into place, then check & double check all dimensions of the chassis are correct before you start any full welds, alternate your full welds from front to back, from one side to the other side etc, allowing the welds to cool fully, check dimensions as you go, & you,ll soon have it fully welded........well thats how I did mine & it turned out straight & true :)

keep up the good work,

ps, have you found where CP24,s go yet? :D

cheers
andy

Do you know someone with a laser level, most builders and kitchen fitters have them. You need the type which projects a horizontal line. You can use that to get the four corners level, then level the whole board up. It may not be that much of an issue, though.

The sides are level but the back centre has dropped a tad was in the centre lifting a gearbox around and think I slightly bent the metal framework under the bench. I really hope I did not mess up the back end some how lol.
Thanks for the tips will help a load.

crap my little pub bottle of gas just ran out =( u guys think it would be ok to hook up my pure argon to the mig welder instead? :D

Right its allmost fully welded missed a few welds in the inside and the underside. Started on the rear suspension stuff now so thats great! no twisting so far so ace news. Had to take it out the workshop to sand down the table just to make sure when i moved the chassis it would stay flat. When all the rear stuff, CP plates and other bits are done i will flip it over and do the underside/hard to get to bits.

While it was out the workshop i decided to do a little messing around! I have some real real rare 3pc enkei split rims. Problem is they are 5 stud and 117.5 and most deff the wrong offset. Its a shame as i would love to use them. Maby after the iva i can mess around see if i can do some hub work.

Looks better with the visor DOWN!

haha thanks! working on the rear frame today eek wish me luck!

Just picked up some new cam covers, plug cover and timing cover. This moves the oil breather to the back and will allow me to have a lower bulge in the bonnet. Will probably remove the stock breathers of this one and move it to the very back. Also need to machine a hole for the vvt on the front of the inlet cam on the pully cover then fab up a little dome for it.

Before

After

Looks smart,

I have only just noticed the cam belt, I have seen narrower super charger belts!!! I bet the service interval is measured in laps of the planet rather than Miles..

TT

Got my VIN number today lol its kinda pants but hay =P at least it has TVR in it hahah was sent a hole load of info and stuff to register the car.

Right well after being distraced by the radio host and winning tickets to watch Ricky Gervais live i decided to call it a day and eat some food at last!
Made a LOAD of mess today stripped all but 1 cam cover they had.. black primer, white primer, calsonic blue, black primer then hammerite blue :mad: took sooooooooo long and so much mess to strip then down. gah

Anyhow! made some good progress with the rear of the chassis.

Been going nice and steady and have the back pretty much all welded now. Real happy that the chassis is pretty much sorted. I will be adding a 2nd set of 20mm diagonals on the side of the chassis from front to back. Dont know if it will help much but with the power and weight of the engine ect i think it would be a wise idea. After the rear is welded up i will flip the chassis and work on the under side. Im also going to be installing guessets the the under side box sections thare are not braced by a D eg where the floor is. :D Will also be removing the part above the front bellhousing and raising it 1inch to allow a big more space.

looking nice :cool:

The GRP tub frame looks good too :)

won,t be long before its on wheels at this rate you are working at :eek: :D

cheers
andy

Well..... after a afternoon of 40amp plasma cutting and 2 cutting discs i now have a sump i can use. Well allmost! might need to shorten it and also need to weld in the ally plugs but apart from that its great! Took so much effort to remove all the stuff from it let alone cutting the thing up. some of that ally is upto a inch thick.

Before gtr sump.


After.

Little update.
Chassis is now upside down and being welded on the underside. Quite a few welds missed so going over the holes chassis just to make sure its all done. Anyone know when you cut out the bottom box section to make room for the gearbox? thinking while its upside down it would be a good idea to do it now. Or should i finish the steering support first?

Picked up a granada steering column, v5, vin plates, paint plate, dif, number plates and a load of photos yesterday, so thats going to help in regards to age related plate ect.
Anyhow hope you guys are all having a productive weekend on your roadsters!

I think your going to be looking at a "Q"

TT

After talking to the guy i got the diff from he is selling me all the stuff i need from 1 car. The only thing i need to do is shorten the drive shafts a little. so from the same car i will have, dif, shafts, hubs,breaks, column, steering wheel, v5, vin plates, number plates, combine that with the "new" chassis its enough to get a age related plate. The other axle on ebay has been relisted, i payed for it to be put back up. So all is good i think :D

But even if its Q plate i will have the car i want :D That the main thing really

Big update! Im sorry for the 3 posts of pics but can only post 4 at a time! Anyhow what do you guys think?
I am so relived it fits! just..... the starter motor housing is quite close to the upright so might have to cut a bit out and bring it back a little. Its not in the right place yet but allmost. But from what i can see it clears everything so thats great. Sump is a little low so will have to weld on some skid bars just to make sure it does not catch on speed bumps. Anyhow enjoy the pics!

Picked up the rest of the bits that i bought the other week. All the bits were finaly removed wooo happy days. Real happy! Check out the rims... did not want to say much at the time, but got some nice rims wanted to wait till i had them in my hands as allmost too good to be true!
Anyhow now have the J scorp steering column, rear hubs, carriers, diff,calipers, discs ect and other bits. The chap is going to get my some sierra shafts but in the mean time i have some granny shafts that have been cut up so i can just mock stuff up. He is also breaking another scorp that im having the early cossy front calipers and discs as i think im going to need the stopping power. Basicaly bought the car he removed the parts i wanted. He keped the engine and scrapped the rest. Sorted!



Check out the Bling.... Amazing to see the stock granny wheels behind! Edit: Think i might need power steering.....

Well build has slowed a bit atm due to lack of cash. :rolleyes:

So! decided to do a bit more on the cnc conversion! Still a long way to go thats for sure.

are you looking to adopt a son ! can i have first dibs ! love the workshop and the build

Right im back! Had a house move so all the gear was stored in the garage. Also found the garage roof had a rather large leak so now thats all sorted i can start to do things again. Happy days! Now live next to people so cant be loud so going to have to rethink things a little. Have started getting the engine to a finished state as its the only thing i can get to at the moment :D

Have been thinking about the chassis as when i removed the workbench i noticed it had sagged a little in the center so a bit worried my chassis might be a bit screwed up as did not notice it when i was welding. Im very tempted to look for someone to take the chassis too just to check it over and install/weld the suspension brackets. Maby Saturn or someone, im unsure so thought i would ask if any of you guys have done this? Also as its a few inches stretched would like to check if its all ok.

Here are a couple of pics of the engine now i have installed all the correct bits to hold the covers on. Also i found a Oil filter housing that did not have a heat exchanger(Saves a load of space and loads of hoses) so that was imported from japan.

Fair play, that's gonna be awesome when it's done. can't wait to see that going.

Right after getting the chassis suspension brackets sorted with a fair amount of help from Talon its now time to paint the wishbones with epoxy mastic 121. After that i will try and find some bushes. So far i belive i have two options:

1) Saturn bushes at around £98+pp (stainless steel CNC'd crush tubes)
2) GTS Haynes roadster £60+pp (stainless crush tubes)

Anyone know if its honestly worth the extra £38 for the saturn ones? Or if there are any other options.

i dont want this to turn into a riot but dont buy them from GTS chances are IF they turn up they will be s**t anyway

tilly

GTS Warning
 

Great to hear that you are now ready for the chassis painting stage :cool:

Once that job is done you'll be able to start the great job of fitting everything & seeing your build come to life.

Please do a search on here & locost builders before you part with any cash in the direction of GTS Tuning ( Darren George ) !!??

In brief, he has a bad reputation of taking your money & not sending your goods !!

At one point, he was using stock pictures of the suspension bushes & if you were lucky enough to even get them, folk found that the crush tubes were mild steel ones that had been cut roughly to length with a chop saw, rendering them net to useless ( No idea if this is still the case !!?? ) :eek:

Have a look at the rear camber adjusters on his web site .... The crap quality speaks for itself ??

Darren George has had a large number of seller accounts suspended by ebay, he has tried to trade directly on this forum, often via an agent or using an assumed identity. ;)

My advice is: Buy your bushes from Saturn, at least you'll know that you will definately get them & if you run into any problems, Saturn will bend over backwards to help you :)

Yeah I guess its best to pay a little extra to make sure you have the quality and the product its self!

When i ordered my bushes i looked all over the place for them and you just cant get them cheap :rolleyes:

Get them from saturn you know they will be of good quality and will definately turn up! :D

Here's food for thought
 

Don't want to sound patronising here :o

This was my take on the Poly bushes.

After the shock of buying my shocks ( No pun intended ), I must admit, it bought a tear to my eye when it came to paying out a wedge of wonga for my Poly bushes :eek:

Then I got to thinking .... Try not to do that too often as it tends to land me in trouble :D

Why do Poly bushes seem expensive ??, I guess the answer lies with the sheer number needed.
22 of the little beggars, that's 44 Injection moulded bush halves & 22 CNC machined, stainless steel crush tubes .... Sort of puts things into prospective, £4.50 per bush kit !!

Let's say, a few years down the road & your pride & joy fails its MOT on the nearside front, lower wishbone bushes !!??

£10 - £15 for a new pair of bushes begins to seem like a bargain to me.

Just the thoughts of this old duffer :o

I was going to state a similar point in my post but it turned into a short story so i didnt bother!

But you have hit the nail on the head there Ronnie, when you think about what you are actually getting (ie bushes for an entire car) and how important they are, its not alot to pay really

Another vote for the Saturn bushes here. Got mine very quick and a perfect fit.

True true. I guess it just seems alot after the cost of the wishbones ect. Tho it does mean i have to find a little extra cash from somewhere...... humm maby i can sell my cat :D