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-   -   Where does this go? (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=7060)

twinturbo 9th September 2011 09:04 PM

where the key turns first.

TT

brainbug007 9th September 2011 09:10 PM

Ok cool, thanks again for all the help :)

twinturbo 9th September 2011 09:15 PM

and recheck with the key in each position. (hold it in the start position whilst testin)

davedew 9th September 2011 09:52 PM

Knowing how much redundant wiring there was in gus's carb setup I expect the cfi setup will be even worse. I have got the same setup as you engine wise, but used a premier wiring loom as it is much neater than the original. Engine will run on edis alone, although it will run rough. Don't forget you will need the bike fuel pump wired in to supply the carbs with petrol.

brainbug007 10th September 2011 03:44 PM

Right so I tried the multimeter out on the ignition wires that connect onto where the key turns. I set it to 20 volts AC, put the black on the battery negative and the red on each wire (the loom positive connections where also connected to the battery positive). I've got a red, yellow, blue/black, and yellow black wires connecting on there. For some of the readings, it would first flash up with a number somewhere between 7 and 16 then after a second just show 1.

key position off (0)
red = 1
yellow = 0.01
blue/black = 1
yellow/black = 0

key position I
red=1
yellow=1
blue/black=1
yellow/black=1

key position II
red=1
yellow=1
blue/black=1
yellow/black=1

twinturbo 10th September 2011 06:28 PM

You need to be on DC.

TT

brainbug007 11th September 2011 06:28 PM

Opps.. Well I've redone it on DC this time and here's what I got:

Position 0
red=12.73
blue/black=12.67
yellow=0.01
yellow/black=0

Position 1
red=12.73
blue/black=12.67
yellow=12.73
yellow/black=0

Position 2
red=12.73
blue/black=12.67
yellow=12.73
yellow/black=12.73

robo 11th September 2011 07:05 PM

All your getting is the difference in voltage drop over the different circuits. Do yourself a favour and buy one of these

http://www.uktools.com/sealey-ppx-au...4v-p-5079.html

They are brilliant, put the two leads to the battery and there are two small lights which detect what you have , green which is for the earth and a red for the live, further more its got a rocker switch so if you need a live press it one way and an earth press it the other. You can then run round all the circuits testing everthing ,bulbs ,sender units, fuseboards the lot for live and earths.

Bob

davedew 11th September 2011 09:33 PM

Blue/black is the starter impulse wire, and should only have 12v on it when the key is in position 3. I think you have got it connected on the wrong terminal on the starter motor. There should be what looks like 3 bolts on the starter motor. The one for the impulse wire will be nearest the ground when the starter motor is fitted.

twinturbo 11th September 2011 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robo (Post 64570)
All your getting is the difference in voltage drop over the different circuits. Do yourself a favour and buy one of these

http://www.uktools.com/sealey-ppx-au...4v-p-5079.html

They are brilliant, put the two leads to the battery and there are two small lights which detect what you have , green which is for the earth and a red for the live, further more its got a rocker switch so if you need a live press it one way and an earth press it the other. You can then run round all the circuits testing everthing ,bulbs ,sender units, fuseboards the lot for live and earths.

Bob

A multimeter will do the job fine. We have confirmed from the results that there is a strange issue somewhere..


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