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-   -   Noob with a new mx5 Saturn build. (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13638)

norton 15th October 2015 02:00 PM

I'm not sure of the plate thickness, 5 or 6mm I think. I got them pre cut from plazcutz via eBay. The threaded tubes also can from eBay from a seller called thelatheman I think.

I'll try recall the drag link. I just had a eurocarparts part number rather than car model as reference.

norton 15th October 2015 02:12 PM

Sylvain, you're probably correct! I've put them on wrong before several times!

norton 15th October 2015 03:22 PM

So I'm looking to order some braided lines and quite anxious about getting the correct length. Would I be right in saying that so long as the line does touch anything with the wheel moved through all its available range of motion it's a pass? And of course that the length is not excessive.

Stot 15th October 2015 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102042)
So I'm looking to order some braided lines and quite anxious about getting the correct length. Would I be right in saying that so long as the line does touch anything with the wheel moved through all its available range of motion it's a pass? And of course that the length is not excessive.

I have mine zip tied to the wishbones in the middle, so they are always touching that. As long as there is still some slack at full lock and through the suspension range and they don't rub on something that would cause wear they should be fine.

Cheers
Stot

norton 16th October 2015 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH1 (Post 102033)
Hi
I was just wondering what size plate you used for the wishbone plates and where you got the threaded tubes from. Also what model is the bmw drag link from.
Thanks
Steve

Try eBay auction number 310650017591 I'm fairly sure that's the part. One part number I've seen is pvtr325 which is a motaquip number. Hth.

norton 16th October 2015 07:42 PM

Thanks for the tips stot, I'll measure up again tonight and go for it I think.

SteveH1 16th October 2015 08:48 PM

Thank you for getting back

norton 17th October 2015 02:28 PM

So I've fitted the exhaust manifold along with the coolant reroute and water pump outlet. I'm now thinking ahead of coolant pipes and how to route it whilst keeping in mind that I would like to turbo this or use a rotrex charger. I planned to fit either of those roughly where the pas pump was below the top chassis tubes.

The water pump inlet is kinda awkward though. I've been looking for an oem pump inlet that faces directly forward not to the passenger side like the original.

I've seen some fit the original back to front which could help but I may end up making one.





I will route the top hose down the exhaust side above the manifold and close to the cam cover.

norton 18th October 2015 01:15 PM

Does anyone know if the book spec roll bar or, more specifically if the harness mounts are iva compatible?

norton 18th October 2015 04:37 PM

I should have been more specific in mentioning I have a book design roll bar kit bought from the bay.

I was happy to assemble it as per the book but wanted to be sure the original plans were still iva compliant.

TalonMotorFabrication 18th October 2015 04:50 PM

How thick is the cross bar that Dave has supplied?

norton 18th October 2015 04:51 PM

I'll measure it when I'm home later.

CTWV50 18th October 2015 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102061)
The water pump inlet is kinda awkward though. I've been looking for an oem pump inlet that faces directly forward not to the passenger side like the original.

I've seen some fit the original back to front which could help but I may end up making one.

I've had the same thoughts, I came up with rotating the inlet 180˚, core plugging the heater matrix feed, cutting off the 90˚ bend and having the straight bit left behind machined to fit a 32mm hose. If you make one let me know so you can make me one too. The small 8mm outlet can be cut and redirected using standard plumbing items or just blanked off.

Badger 18th October 2015 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102065)
Does anyone know if the book spec roll bar or, more specifically if the harness mounts are iva compatible?

Simply: No. They don't meet the requirements of either being attached at both ends or down one side.

Threaded bushes should be welded (at both ends) through the tube, and not end mounted on the surface. (A threaded bush may be attached by
its side surface to a structural component).


Here's what I did:

CTWV50 18th October 2015 10:54 PM

Use a piece of thick walled (3mm) square tube for the cross member and weld the bush to the rear side of that. I passed IVA ok that way. Tubing will also pass a radius test no problem.



Or weld the bushes through the round tubing supplied.

norton 19th October 2015 11:14 AM

Hey guys, thanks for all the feedback.

Re the harness mounts I think I'll put them inside the cross tube (I understand I may need a new tube, I'll measure in a sec). Is their position ok?

norton 19th October 2015 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTWV50 (Post 102072)
I've had the same thoughts, I came up with rotating the inlet 180˚, core plugging the heater matrix feed, cutting off the 90˚ bend and having the straight bit left behind machined to fit a 32mm hose. If you make one let me know so you can make me one too. The small 8mm outlet can be cut and redirected using standard plumbing items or just blanked off.

Yes!i was having similar ideas but was sure how I'd machine the end. I was leaning towards making a jig to mount it on a lathe...

I was thinking of keeping the heater hard pipe though and running it to the heater outlet on the reroute spacer so there is still circulation before the thermostat is open.



Might need restricting a bit though or, it could be useful for a water cooled turbo?

norton 19th October 2015 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TalonMotorFabrication (Post 102069)
How thick is the cross bar that Dave has supplied?

The tube is 33.5mm thick.

CTWV50 19th October 2015 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102079)
Yes!i was having similar ideas but was sure how I'd machine the end. I was leaning towards making a jig to mount it on a lathe...

I was thinking of keeping the heater hard pipe though and running it to the heater outlet on the reroute spacer so there is still circulation before the thermostat is open.



Might need restricting a bit though or, it could be useful for a water cooled turbo?

Great minds think a like! Agree with all the above.:)

norton 19th October 2015 08:23 PM

Well, I'll have a go with the one on the car and if that works ill do the same with my spare for you.

CTWV50 19th October 2015 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102083)
Well, I'll have a go with the one on the car and if that works ill do the same with my spare for you.

Cool, I've got two spares so I'll send you one over to replace your spare and cover your costs, least I can do. I'm a bit of a turbo noob but aren't most turbos oil cooled, or have I made that up?

norton 19th October 2015 08:30 PM

They have an oil supply to loob the bearing only. Some turbos have the facility to water cooling the cold side of the turbo but not all. I was going to try get a turbo with that facility.

Ps, I'm a turbo noob too. The only other time I've had a serious play with engines was this.




CTWV50 19th October 2015 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102085)
They have an oil supply to loob the bearing only. Some turbos have the facility to water cooling the cold side of the turbo but not all. I was going to try get a turbo with that facility.

I see, can only be a good thing with our tiny engine bays, heat management issues and fibreglass bonnets. I also thought a 323 style downward turbo flanged manifold would be preferable to a upward facing on.

norton 19th October 2015 08:39 PM

Again that was my thoughts. I looked at the bay and without the pas pump and with the water pump inlet modified it'll leave a gaping hole on the passenger side of the engine. It's meant to be...

CTWV50 19th October 2015 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102087)
Again that was my thoughts. I looked at the bay and without the pas pump and with the water pump inlet modified it'll leave a gaping hole on the passenger side of the engine. It's meant to be...

Hahaha! :D

CTWV50 19th October 2015 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102085)
Ps, I'm a turbo noob too. The only other time I've had a serious play with engines was this.

What car is that/they? My last fun car was this!


Custom 2.0ltr Corrado G60

norton 19th October 2015 08:55 PM

The g60 looks superb, I bet you miss the power.

Mine was a Capri into which went various engine ultimately ending up with a 3.9 rover v8 with ported heads, balanced internals, etc and itb's. This ran a v1 megasquirt.

I did loads to it. As far as capris go it was very capable meaning still shite!

CTWV50 19th October 2015 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102091)
The g60 looks superb, I bet you miss the power.

Mine was a Capri into which went various engine ultimately ending up with a 3.9 rover v8 with ported heads, balanced internals, etc and itb's. This ran a v1 megasquirt.

I did loads to it. As far as capris go it was very capable meaning still shite!

Big engine Capri, very cool, 3.9 must of been dramatic! :D I got a bit bored with the Corrado, ended up fitting a diesel gearbox to lower the wheel torque and get some traction. I decided rear wheel power was the way to go after I sold it. I think this car is faster to 90mph and a lot more fun but after that the aerodynamics of the corrado wins, it would happily cruise at 150mph, allegedly! :D

Speed isn't king in my mind anymore and acceleration is, plus you don't go to prison for accelerating too quickly! lol

p.s. I haven't been to prison!

metal matt 20th October 2015 07:53 AM

I'm not to sure about how to fit a turbo without making a mess and braking it too so I will be avidly watching you 2

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124541083@N02/

CTWV50 21st October 2015 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102057)
Try eBay auction number 310650017591 I'm fairly sure that's the part. One part number I've seen is pvtr325 which is a motaquip number. Hth.

Hi,

which I believe is a typo and should be VTR325. Have you tried this part in the bushes? A lot of these items are listed on ebay as M14 x 1.5 and thelatheman bushes are listed as M16x 1.5. Which has we confused.

Same thing discussed here.

https://haynes.co.uk/forums/showthre...t=12492&page=2

ebay link

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spurstange...IAAOSwI-BWHFLt

CTWV50 21st October 2015 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 100731)


Nearly all done. Annoyingly the last arm I thought I finished went wonky so I need to correct that. Also still waiting for the suspension brackets which should turn up any day now I hope.

I'm off next week which should give me the time to get it on its wheels and the engine, box and diff mounted too.

Doh! You have clearly tried the VTR325 with M16x1.5 bushes.

norton 21st October 2015 04:54 PM

No I used m14x1.5 threaded drop links. I got them from eurocarparts. Thelatheman turned up the threaded bush for me.

CTWV50 21st October 2015 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102102)
No I used m14x1.5 threaded drop links. I got them from eurocarparts. Thelatheman turned up the threaded bush for me.

Ahh I see. Thanks for that.

norton 22nd October 2015 03:26 PM

So I need to organise myself better rather than attacking all the jobs in one go.

So firstly I'm gonna get the cooling system sorted. I'm trying to track down a Westfield owners club person who had some specific reroute hoses made for the top hose. SFS hoses made them but won't remake them without the original persons permission. They make for a far neater job and get the top hose tucked in nicely above the exhaust and by the cam cover.

I quickly hacked the bottom pump inlet about this morning. I've no access to a lathe though so I'm unsure how to machine a hose retaining recess onto it.

Rosco 22nd October 2015 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102112)
I've no access to a lathe though so I'm unsure how to machine a hose retaining recess onto it.

You can post it to me if you like?

norton 23rd October 2015 12:29 PM

That's a kind offer but setting it up would a real ball ache. You'd need to remove the chuck, fit a face late, then an angle plate onto that then the piece to be worked into that which will then need centring.all that just to turn a shallow recess to help retain a hose in place.

I could file something adequate into it so its probable best to just do that.

Rosco 23rd October 2015 01:23 PM

ok mate, can you post a pic, how about a bead of weld or and olive so to speak

norton 23rd October 2015 02:51 PM

I ll take a pic tonight when I'm home. Welding it could work. I have an idea re that which a picture will explain better than words.

SteveH1 23rd October 2015 03:07 PM

There was a thread on here and the fella split a copper brake line and pushed it on the opening round the edge then soldered it in place but i cant rember which thread

norton 23rd October 2015 03:11 PM

If you mean the small steel L bend then no we're talking about the actual inlet which receives coolant from the radiator. We want it to point forwards not to the passenger side.


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