Is it a bead ur looking to create to stop the hose coming off

Yes that's the goal.

Ok so measure the circumference of the pipe and cut a piece of copper brake line to this length
Then split the pipe along its length and push the split onto the lip of the pipe all the way around and solder in place.
Assuming its steel as i dont know if you can solder ali

rather than split it grind it back on one side until you can easily push through then you can push it on and solder....that is how I got a rounded edge on my exhaust tip...... for beads to keep pipes on simply bash a piece of brake pipe or cut a strip from a copper pipe and roll it around then solder ...did it on some of my steel water pipes

Yea musta been your thread i seen it on

Ok so, standard.



Standard facing forward.



The intended finished arrangement. This my spare inlet with the 90 degree bit chopped off.

Ok so why couldnt we just chuck on the inside of the tube and turn a grove in?

The id is about 28mm. Have you any internal jaws that small?

Pedal box is more or less done. I need to hook up the hydraulics and test it. I also glued some this rubber flooring to the floor as it just felt like it needed it. Should dampen the floor panel too.

I will have a look in the morning

Looking good! You can get some pipes done now, you will be caught me up soon!

Cheers bud, I'm on a role again!leave the chuck, I've tested out clamping a hose to it, I really cannot pull the bugger off!

Brake hoses are now on (thanks voucht!) and I'm cracking on with arranging the cooling pipes.

It would be avantageous to fit and ally sheet to the chassis just in front of where the scuttle goes however I have no bodywork to guide me and how I cut/attach the panel. Can anyone offer any guidance on that?

Also, clutch hoses for mx5 based cars?

Yeah I could do with fitting that to but I'm just waiting till I get my scuttle, bit of a pain really, no probs on the chuck

my mx5 donor was a mk2 it has its own clutch hose, i intend to reuse that to a bracket on the body then a rigid pipe downt he the master cylinder

My master cylinder is mounted high and the pedals are hung from above. To connect the master to the slave I had a flexible hose made up that goes direct from master to slave by Sylvain which means only 1 direct fitting works very well indeed. Thanks again to Sylvain

You could just file a couple groves in. They don't need to be particularly deep and the corner of a square file will make short work of it.

You can put a piece of hose on it and file against the edge of the hose to get a straight edge all the way around.

Cheers
Stot

Thanks guys, I should've added that I've used the book pedal box and wilwood style cylinder.

The master and slave cylinders are so close together that the hose will be difficult to create in such a way that it looks 'right'.

I'll try manipulating the oem parts as suggested or failing that I'll get a hose made.

Re the pump inlet I have filed some grooves into it. With the correct size hose and a jubilee clip I can suspend my own weight from it. Jerking it doesn't move it either. I core plugged the heater hose join and wound a bolt into the small 8mm inlet which I cut and filed but I now realise I needed that! I have another for a mk2 version..

I'll post some pics once things are finished.

Tight.





The master cylinder outlet is 3/8 24tpi and the slave inlet is m10x1.

Would a coiled copper pipe pass iva? Would iteven work long term?

how about get a flexi one made up with your brake lines?

edit: sorry you had already said that

i think a copper one would be fine and also its not going to kill you if it ever did fail

The original is a coiled pipe, probably aluminium and then also a flexi you can see at the top of the pic.



Mine passed with that installed.

Now I only have a HEL Flexi line in a coil connecting the two.

Cheers
Stot

I've been thinking of how to use the or setup but it seems long winded given the position of both cylinders. It still possible though.

Have you a pic of the flexi you've used at all?

Stainless braided hose with two different fittings on the ends.

Kerr-ching.

I hate brake pipes :mad:

Not at the moment but heres what I ordered from HEL, £30.

I did a loop in it and losely zip tied itso the loop could expand and contract with the engine. In hindsight I would probably put a 20* angle on both ends for ease of fitment.

Cheers
Stot

I've had a tinker mocking up a copper line but it didn't feel like a proper job. I think a flexi hose is on the cards. Thanks for the info stot. It gives me a good datum to use.

Does anyone have a link to someone who sells the diy hose fittings but doesn't a flat £10 postage?

So I've made up a clutch hose and bled the clutch. It works but it's unpleasantly heavy.





I was looking for a 0.65 cylinder to try but no one makes one.

+1
If the pedal is too hard, you want to reduce the diameter of the master cylinder, not to increase it.
Good job with the clutch line, it looks nice.

I considered the 0.625 mc but thought that was quite a jump. Nevertheless it looks like the next available option.

My car uses a 0.7 cylinder and the clutch feels just right. I do have an larger diameter hose going between the two. Not sure if this makes any difference but when I had it made up be furore he suggested a larger diameter

I remember skov having a stiff clutch problem as well.

David

That's interesting, I'll fire a message to furore for advice. I've used a -3 hose and m10 banjo fittings. All the moving parts are friction free so it's definitely a hydraulic issue.

the banjo fittings may be your issue, try a bit copper pipe in with standard male ends before you go spending any cash.
some master cylinder to slave setups do use 10mm pipe but not on the mx5

I don't know what the standard ones dia is but that is what I am using and clutch feels fine, and I am using a flexi line as well

I don't know the pedal box dimensions/pedal leverage but it's all as per the Saturn plans using a 0.7 mc.

Top hose.



Bottom hose/inlet.





And to make this work I made up an 8mm copper line to route coolant from the cold start/fast idle valve to the water pump inlet.



So asides from the expansion bottle the coolant pipes are done. I also wrapped the exhaust manifold because I felt like a tart...

I've been putting off the brake pipes as they have the potential to completely cack if not formed perfectly. I can't put it off any longer though, they have to happen.

My next update will likely be in a year or so's time.

Hahaha, take your time! Lol!