I really don't want to be changing the bias valve at this point if I can help it.

I was so close to passing overall efficiency (3% below the limit), that I'm sure just giving the brakes a damn good thrashing and getting them bedded in properly will be enough to get through the test.

Just spoke to my friendly garage across the road from work and he said he'll check it on his MOT rollers for my free of charge :D
So a drive to work next week with plenty of left foot braking might be in order!

Forgot to mention in my write up yesterday. You NEED a bike helmet with these cars. I set off with just sunglasses on, but had to stop and switch to my helmet a few miles in because I was struggling to breath above 45mph :eek:

I did a bit more research and if you do find you need a new valve a Fiat Uno valve seems to be a good choice and used on quite a few builds. It can be modified to be adjustible after IVA too just by changing the way you mount it.

Cheers
Stot

Hi John,
Sorry about the fail....:(
Well I guess you can now concentrate your efforts on the things it failed on and should be an easy fix.
So come on what's it like to drive one on the road for real...:D
To be honest I don't think I would have the b**ls to drive it to the test.

It wasn't balls, it was because I too cheap to hire a trailer :rolleyes:
I was terrified I wasn't going to make it there!

Fcuck it, I've took my Mondeo bias valve out and replaced it with a bit of plain pipe.
Got it booked into a garage next week to check it's not biassed too far the other way now...

Decided to do some work on the clutch as it was rediculously heavy and hard to control.
Changed the master cylinder from 0.7" bore to 0.625" and cut and shut the pedal to add an inch or so to it. Feels nice and light now!

New steering UJ turned up today, hopefully get that fitted tomorrow.

Sorted out my handbrake cable interference issue by cutting and rewelding the brackets that hold the cable ends on the caliper. Should bring the cables away from the chassis by about 1/2 and inch.
Only tacked together in the photos, but you get the idea:





Tried to book my re-test earlier, but no one was answering the phones at Leighton Buzzard :rolleyes:

Which universal joint are you / were you using. I have checked mine (from rally designs) and there is quite a bit of movement.

David

I have the RD forged one too and I don't think much of it. One end of mine has the slit machined on the wrong side, the thru-holes for the pinch bolts were no where near where they needed to be to locate in the spline recess and yes its sloppy even when fully tightened.

Think I would plump for a pressed steel one if I cant do something with this one.

Cheers
Stot

Hi Skov,

Looking at that I cant help but think it would be a safer option to shorten it this way. It looks like it would still line up ok.



Cheers
Stot

Hi John,
So was the hand brake cable touching the chassis seat rail all the time or just when the shock was loaded?

I had a similar problem with mine when I fitted the cable. I ended up fitting a angle bkt to pull the cable away from the chassis seat rail.









The cable cleared just:eek: when I removed the shock spring and moved the damper through it's full range.
I know it looks close to the drive shaft and suspension arm but it clears these as well.

I was using forged Rally Design one and it's sh!t. Sounds like like yours is even worse!
The problem I was having is that it wouldn't clamp tigh enough on the steering rack spline. Not happy considering they charge around £20 for it :mad:

I swapped it for a pressed steel one off ebay last night and it's nice and tight with no play now.

lol, don't know why I didn't think of that!


It wasn't touching at all when I checked (but was damn close!), by the time I got to IVA they were hard up against the seat backs all the time.
I had the cables pulled away similar to you, but they still managed to move and settle upagainst the chassis.

Seems to be sorted with the shorted brackets anyway.