It's fiddly, boring and time consuming. Poo. I'll sulk for s few days then get on with.

looks bloody mint pal!

Thanks Rosco, it'd look even better if I had one of those superb looking battery trays you've made ;) :D

Does anyone have a spare mx5 throttle cable at all?

Lol, send me a drawing and i will see what i can do!

Well, exactly the same as yours assuming you have a standard floor pan? I was very impressed by it, much better than those welded ally jobbies all over eBay!

On the progress front I have now made the two front brake pipes and mounted a tee by the mc to accommodate a brake light switch. I'll get to work on the long front to rear pipe tomorrow.

ok i will drop you a u2u, as for your brake light switch, a few people have said it takes a bit of pressure on the pedal to get the lights on and end up swapping to an electrical switch on the pedal, just a thought

Ill be adding a manual switch at some point for this reason.

Cheers
Stot

Hi Norton
did u put in grp1 and 2 at the rear
and did d 13 fit ok
the saturn plans say it should be 304 but it seems to be too short
but I'm not sure i have grp1 and 2 correct i have grp 1 level with rs14 is that correct
thanks

If I remember correctly grp1 and 2 should have a 5° angle upwards from rs14

The diagonal that connects to the rear most rail was longer than the plans. I can't remember my final measurement. I assembled all the other rails then cut the diagonal to suit.

I've got my brakes bled and working so hopefully that's sorted. I realise now though that I've stitched myself up for the fuel pipe routing. My gearbox mount is, sturdy and takes up a lot of room.

Would iva accept two 8mm fuel pipes passing through 30mm box section but insulated by grommets?

gosh, don't know if they would but I wish I'd thought of that, made some extreme bends in mine to get past the same mount

It might be a moot question as I don't think I can get my drill in there :(

I managed to pick up a right angled drill attachment from lidl or Aldi a while back....one of those things that you spot and think "that might come in handy!"

any place you can get the drill in, make up a small bracket and drill the holes etc then mig weld it in place, you can generally get a tack on it.

I'll figure it out, there has to be a solution. Does anyone know off hand how close a fuel pipe can run next to a fixed object?

I have a one piece floor which bridges the trans tunnel and my mount, a 30x30 piece of box fits across the lower tunnel 20mm tubing. This means I have a 20mm gap between mount and ally floor, could I run the pipes through there?

Have you done your rear panel yet? Here's a video that show how Caterham tacke their rear panel compound bends: https://youtu.be/Y3EbtLoROhU?t=3m57s

So I'm up and running again after a bit of a break. I've started assembling the rear tub frame and the roll bar.



I'm stuck on the seat belt mounts. Putting the book spec roll bar cross frame on and mounting the bushes on or even in results in the mounts not lining up all that well with the holes in the seats. I'd have to screw the belts underneath the cross bar so I'm thinking I may follow others who fitted a bar to the chassis itself and put the mounts onto that.

just adjust the height of the cross bar to suit the belt slots in the seats and position the threaded bosses to suit the width of the slots. in the book it says "adjust measurements to suit seats"
if the cross bar is to low, the seats become load bearing as the belts would come upwards through the slot pivoting on the slot edge to your shoulders and down.
I know some people have had to provide seat structure reports for iva

a bit long winded but as said above the position of the crossmember and bosses was intended to be "to suit" rather than set in stone
hope this helps gary

Hi, I' tried putting the bar lower but it didn't look right so abandoned that one but I did miss the comment in the book re adjusting it to suit.

I'll offer it all up again next garage session and see what sits most naturally.

So the rear frame and roll bar are done, just some tidying and painting to finish.





I feel like I now need to go back over everything I've done and give it all a really good clean and consider my next move. My elaborate handbrake lever excess will need to go I think though as it leaves little room for the fuel lines.

New tank!

looking good there and it really feels good as you get jobs done and moving forwards,
Gary

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I seem to remember someone mentioning that the book design for the rear bolting of the rollbar was no longer acceptable at the IVA and that it had to be two bolts per rear stay. I may be wrong but double check.

Arfon

I was thinking about mentionin the same thing. When AshG had his IVA test, it was one of the first few. They said 1 bolt on each stay wasn't acceptable, he had to have at least 2. I don't know if this rule still exists or if people have gone through with one bolt.
I took my stays to the chassis by the floor and ended up using 4bolts per side. Prob overkill

There is no requirement for a roll bar so in my view they are just being a pain,but more is better and safer.

12.9 domed cap screws are available and look pretty.

Joy, I'll research it and report back. I can't see what difference it'll make as I'm sure the single high tensile m10 bolt is not the weakest part at those junctions.

Could I leave the roll bar off for the test?

If your not using it for your seatbelt mounts, I cant see why not

Arfon

Yes exactly,but make sure seat belt mounts conform to IVA requirements for height and strength etc.
Fairly sure that Westfield/Caterham had only one center bolt through bottom of roll hoop,so Haynes 4 bolt to me much safer.
The other thing that makes more sense(to Me)is to place rear stays on something more substantial like the diff mounts.

The Westfield we have in work has the competition roll-bar and only has three bolts in it but it will never be going for IVA, it is a Westfield supplied item, the rear supports go down to the rear most diagonals of the chassis and bolts into a suspension bracket.

Arfon

Its built now so I'm reluctant to chop it all up again. Nearer the time I'll check with the test centre about the bolt situation and go from there. If I can get away with not fitting the roll bar I may just plump for that.

Has the main tube of the hoop got one central bolt up through it to hold it down to rear seat bar on both sides.

No it doesn't have the central bolt only the outer bolts. It's a well rapid little thing, with a Blackbird engine and the Westfield reverse box, Freelander rear axle:D

Arfon

Best to give them a ring at some point.
Assuming your using Southampton:

023 8083 7397
Unit R
Centurion Industrial Estste
Bitterne Road West
Northam
SO18 1UB
United Kingdom

I will be yes, thank you.






The harness mounts aren't attached to it, at the moment, this could change.

The car is coming along otherwise.






I've reworked my handbrake position to something more conventional. I intend to spend a good amount of time getting the controls running as smoothly as possible and positioned as well as best as I can get them to suit me. Once that's done I'll then fit fix the tank in place, run the fuel lines and panel the interior.

Has anyone here successfully iva'd a car without using an indicator stalk but instead employed a different way of using the indicators? Dash mounted buttons?

Also the same with the ignition switch? I quite fancy a bare steering column you see.

Well, Caterhams don't have indicator stalks, they have rocker switches on the panel. So that should not be a problem.

If you eliminate the ignition lock with the steering lock, though, you have to provide an alternative mechanical anti-theft device or an electronic immobilizer. See IVA manual section 13A.

Thanks Alga, I am tempted as its a clean looking setup without the stalks, moar in keeping with the cars minimalist design.

Can anyone reccommend an edge trim to cover the corner/edge of my trans tunnel?

I need to make the top pieces bolt down (in order to give access for inspection during IVA) but I'll need a trim that covers the edge and allows for the panels removal...