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-   -   mx5 diff problems (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12872)

Short 23rd August 2013 09:12 AM

is it more of an heating issue affecting the diff internals, or the heat degrading the oil? If its the latter, I cant personally see a problem.

Talonmotorsport 27th August 2013 09:20 PM

Today after an hour and a half of trying to undo the bolts that hold the ali back bone to the diff nose I gave up and reached for the grinder, big Ammer and the drift. Long storey short the out put shafts bolt on type for LSD diffs are the same as the push in units so the fab'ed diff cover fits both.

Short 28th August 2013 09:52 AM

Phil - Lefty loosy, Righty tighty :D

Davidbolam 28th August 2013 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talonmotorsport (Post 93117)
Today after an hour and a half of trying to undo the bolts that hold the ali back bone to the diff nose I gave up and reached for the grinder, big Ammer and the drift. Long storey short the out put shafts bolt on type for LSD diffs are the same as the push in units so the fab'ed diff cover fits both.

I had a spare Diff that I gave to Nathan when his broke. It was off a 1.6 and he was using the 1.8 running gear and it wouldn't fit in his car.

Talonmotorsport 28th August 2013 12:41 PM

Erm minor edit.....just put the 1.6 LSD next to the open diff, erm so how many different sizes of diff are there?

PorkChop 28th August 2013 06:05 PM

The 1800 diff has a larger crownwheel and is physically bigger (might be a bit longer too). The 1600 and 1800 driveshafts are different, so if you fit a 1600 diff you will need 1600 driveshafts too. On MX5s, the prop must also match, but I don't know whether the prop length is the only difference and therefore not an issue on a Roadster.

Push in driveshafts will also fit bolt in diffs (at least for the 1800s, as I have this exact setup on my Torsen).

Stot 29th August 2013 08:17 PM

[silly ideas]
If you could machine down the bolting surfaces 6mm you could sandwich in the mounting plate to the standard diff.

Or maybe you could design a plate that can be bolted on externally using the existing bolts that hold the diff together. Need to cut it around the casting webbing.



Then cut the wings off.
[/silly ideas]

Cheers
Stot

Talonmotorsport 30th August 2013 08:36 AM

I did consider that at one point I even offered the cover up to the mill, then I had a little think about gripping a brittle ali casting in a machine vice....

jason 82 30th August 2013 09:44 AM

Just re read my gillham guide, and under the section differential, it actually has the nose braced. It says, an additional length on 19mm box can be fixed between BR12 & RS3, with a 5mm packer welded between RS3. The second engine mount rubber can be used to secure the front of the diff. I have revision 3 notes, so maybe it was not in the earlier build spec. Maybe we were all that keen, we missed it. 19mm box & 5mm plate it is ! ( picture in notes is - figure 41 : front lower diff mount position). Tidy on a Friday !:D

Davidbolam 30th August 2013 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jason 82 (Post 93194)
Just re read my gillham guide, and under the section differential, it actually has the nose braced. It says, an additional length on 19mm box can be fixed between BR12 & RS3, with a 5mm packer welded between RS3. The second engine mount rubber can be used to secure the front of the diff. I have revision 3 notes, so maybe it was not in the earlier build spec. Maybe we were all that keen, we missed it. 19mm box & 5mm plate it is ! ( picture in notes is - figure 41 : front lower diff mount position). Tidy on a Friday !:D

That was what spud and nathan used but it failed. Partly due to the mount and they also didn't use the large plates that go under the diff mounts. Nathan then modified the mount be removing the rubber engine mount and replaced it with a steel bracket. Nothing to stop the diff twisting though

David


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