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-   -   Where does this go? (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=7060)

brainbug007 14th September 2011 08:43 AM

Fair enough, I'm hoping the starter isn't knackered as that won't be cheap to replace :( I'll take some photos from the front and top of the starter in position tonight when I get in then take it off the block and take a few more of it on the bench closer up. I'll try the fuses too and see what happens with those. Also I need to wire up my bike fuel pump and was planning to just use terminal blocks as I can't work out how to remove the wires from the bike loom plugs and then put the sierra loom wires into that plug. The bike pump has a red and black wire, and the sierra loom connection has a brown and red/black stripped wire. Which goes to which?

davedew 14th September 2011 08:47 AM

Same with me TT. After removing all the unnecessaray parts from Gus's Sierra loom, I decided it would be easier and more reliable in the long run to fit a new loom. That's why I went for a Premier Wiring loom in the end.

twinturbo 14th September 2011 09:02 AM

Black/Red to the Pump Red. (Feed)
Brown to the Pump Black. (Earth)

Cheers

TT

davedew 14th September 2011 09:04 AM

I am not sure if the bike fuel pump will work correctly wired like that. The bike pump is self regulating. ie it turns itself on and off as needed. Therefore it just needs an ignition switched power supply.

If you look at the Sierra wiring diagrams the fuel pump would have been controlled by the ecu via a relay. You are not using the Sierra ECU and therefore you will not just be able to connect the bike pump to the wires that the original pump was connected to.

brainbug007 14th September 2011 09:06 AM

Pants so whats a good way to re-wire it? do I just trace the wire back to whatever its connected into, disconnect it, and the connect to somewhere else?

davedew 14th September 2011 09:10 AM

My personnal opinion would be to forget the fuel pump, and get the engine cranking first. Then make sure you are getting sparks. The bike pump then just needs connecting to a position 2 power feed.

Before all of this though I would remove as much of the unnecessary wiring as possible. Interior lights, stereo, door switches, immobiliser, basically anything you don't need. I removed more than I left behind from Gus's loom and he only had a carbed engine!!

brainbug007 14th September 2011 09:17 AM

Ah right, I thought it would be best to leave stuff on for the meantime until I got it cranking/running to then make it easier to work out what I didn't need as there's alot of wires! Also long term I wanted to put a heater and stero in so would it be better to just leave those wires on the loom and hide them under the scuttle or take them off to put them back on further down the line?

twinturbo 14th September 2011 09:17 AM

Hmm, normally the EEC-IV ecu would power up the pump initially to prime, and then once running the ECU would keep +12V feed to the pump. Almost the same as having a ignition feed but the pump will only be running when the engine is ( safer in a crash ).

Your doing away with the ECU, so the two wires are going to be redundant(ISH).

Firstly, I would make sure the inertia cutoff is incorporated in your plans. This is a black box with a red push button on the top. It needs to be mounted to a solid surface with the red button pointing upwards.

Next we need to get a ignition live feed to the blue and red wire on the 4-pin multiplug behind the battery, doing that will energise the fuel pump relay.

The black wire on the 6 pin multi plug is ignition live.

TT

twinturbo 14th September 2011 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brainbug007 (Post 64790)
Ah right, I thought it would be best to leave stuff on for the meantime until I got it cranking/running to then make it easier to work out what I didn't need as there's alot of wires! Also long term I wanted to put a heater and stero in so would it be better to just leave those wires on the loom and hide them under the scuttle or take them off to put them back on further down the line?


Forget all of the loom for the moment apart from the engine loom, unplug it from the three multiplugs behind the battery. Apply +12V to the black wire on the multiplug. Apply power to the starter solenoid wire (once we have confirmed it's working). You should get crank and spark, and if you have something like "Start Ya bas...rd" the engine will run ( you can do this even with the old CFi unit.

TT

brainbug007 14th September 2011 09:24 AM

Woosh that was the sound of something going right over my head! I know the little black box with the button, I thought it was fuel cutoff? I was planning to mount it on the drivers side under the scuttle so in the event of a minor bump I could get to it easily enough to push the button back down after it'd probly have popup up. It's currently just dangling down below the steering wheel in an upright position with the button down. Will I need to take it off and re-wire it in somewhere else?

Quote:

Next we need to get a ignition live feed to the blue and red wire on the 4-pin multiplug behind the battery, doing that will energise the fuel pump relay.
So i do have a plug but cant remember how many pins it has that sits really close to the battery but it's one that's not connect at the moment as I haven't sussed out what goes onto it. I thought it would be something like the heater or windscreen washer system?

Quote:

The black wire on the 6 pin multi plug is ignition live.
are you refering to the big plug that went into the ecu?


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