From what I've heard on other forums you are the one supplying the information about the engines peak power so if you want 8k then that's what it is!
My peak power on my MX5 engine is going to be 3000 rpm - er - no I don't think I'll get away with that - so as long as it half sensible .........

yeah i thought that but i would like to let a good bit of cold air in, im thinking foam filter sticking through a hole in the bonnet, then ive not got to mess around with a scoop or anything, just cut a neat hole in the bonnet

yeah that sounds good, I'm going to get it mapped so will see where it gives peak power :D

Not many photos tonight but it doesn't mean I've not been busy, got my driveshafts from j&r on eBay greased, built up and fitted

Got a type 054 battery, think it's going in the passenger footwell behind a foot rest, so made the foot rest fit and made a strap out of stainless





This will bolt through the floor from underneath, all bits need a bit of padding here and there



Then spent most of Sunday drawing and deciding how to do my air filter

First try was with a k&n filter but looks to big,

Next is to suit an itg sausage filter over the top, this is what I'm going to do, I've got to make a new fuel rail and a base plate





Std injectors which will fit in the new rail/bracket



This method seems the simplest, easy to make, most compact and uses an off the shelf air filter

Well got all my anodizing back today, looks sweet



Gear shifter



Roll cage bungs, I admit I got carried away with these, but I do love it! Made a bit of a logo with my initials

Brake tags bonded and riveted on (I spoke to the tech iva man at the dvla about this and he said it's fine as long as there secure) also got all my brake pipes back on tonight, I just need to rivet the p clips on





Rad brackets fixed on and fan fitted



Brake res fitted

My air trumpets turned up yesterday so now I have 4 short ones



Started the fuel rail bracket



Back plate drawn up



Just need to order one of these filters

Well finished my fuel rail bracket off tonight, just got to make a few bosses for it



Then onto the handbrake cables, I thought this would be an easy job but it wasn't, the cables weren't really long enough and not sitting nicely, I was ready to leave it for tonight then I thought about making some exstention tubes



The cables are a snug fit in the tubes and locate on 50mm also it stops them from rubbing on the diff



[url=http://s133.photobucket.com/user/corsaboss/media/September%202015/B44B1114-E9A5-4D6E-9CB4-B761C1846667.jpg.html]

I just need to make a couple of brackets to hold the cables in place off the wishbone bolts



I've removed the adjuster from the cable but I will still have adjustment on the cable end fitting as it has grub screws in

Don't be tempted to have a "few" notch handbrake as you don't get leverage to give you good brake force,4-5 notches is good .

Nice build .

ok thanks, how many clicks are you aloud?

I seem to recall from my youth it was 7:)

Long time ago ....:p

As long as you get good leverage and it does not run out of travel it should be ok.

Once its up and running try it on the road or MOT rollers,probably not a good idea to rely on adjusting it at the caliper ends and IVA man might not like it either.

Basically what you are doing is turning a shaft/bolt against the pads to produce the effort.

That's looking super, really polished. Can I ask, what's your trade? Do you work for McLaren?

I've figured out how to add the old adjuster back on so all good, cheers

Lol cheers, it's getting there bit by bit, still loads to do I think, I wish I did work for mclaren! I'm an engineer, working on cnc mills, we make aerospace and f1 parts from aluminium, stainless and titanium mainly

Ah, so there's some work place skills that come in handy!

I guess it'll be able to move under its own steam soon...

Yeah a little lol, but I do make most of my stuff at home though

As you moving, yeah not far away, need some shocks and wheels, only thing is I want to get my bodywork first so I can work my wheel offset out so its sits nice

Well more done today, made some little crush tubes for the fuel rail, also I've vapour blasted the bracket to make it look at bit more factory





Also I've started making a new gear lever, just the lower bit with the bearings in as its a bit of a bodge lol

More done today, loads of bits and bobs to do, got my clutch cable sorted, had to make a bit at the pedal end and solder a bit on the other end, it wouldn't solder to start with, to hot I think, but got it done in the end.

Also got all my aluminium engine cradle spacers back on and tightened up.

Then went down my dads and made my air filter backplate ready for the itg filter, I got a drawing from ITG for the outside



Came out mint





Pretty much there now, just need a few holes in it for wiring, air temp and the fuel feed, also need some 3mm spacers under the trumpets to replicate what was there before as it's got orings that seal everything

Steering rack and track rods re fitted



When I re fitted the steering shaft my break pipe was in the way so I had to make a new one



Rear discs and pads fitted



Done a bit more on my inlet, fuel rail all fitted and fuel piped up

I removed the pins from the injector plugs ready to pass through a grommet but then decided I'm going to cut the lot and put a connector inline so it's easily removed



Also my air filter came last week and fits sweet!

Had a morning on my dads cnc today





These are to go under my trumpets on the inlet to replicate the thickness that was there before



Handbrake cable tags

Works like a dream to!





This is a bracket for over the diff, just need some more grommets

Is that a home brew cnc machine?

Yes mate, it's wicked, he's built it all himself, it works a treat, considering I use real cnc mills all day at work, I prefer using his :D

Well got a few jobs done this week, got my handbrake bracket fitted, really pleased with this as its held the cables dead in the right place



Decided on what switches I'm going to use for my dash, and got some switch guards, only thing there 4mm not 5mm so I think they will fail iva so I'm going to have to push some rubber tube over them I think



Also made a mount for my wheel speed sensor, there was a spare hole on the engine so I used this, it's going to pick up off a long bolt on the prop adapter



It sits closer than it looks, it's just the angle of the pic

Right update time, been bitting and bobbing all week really

Rear lights temporarly mounted and wired to the front





Makeshift dash sorted so I can start to get things wiried



Battery cables done

I'm using these terminal bars for my wiring



Toggle switches for my dash

New gear lever made





Also made a bracket for the starter relay

Looking spot on like normal.
I've got a dash2 as well and had problems with the Hall effect sensor picking up the diff bolts (prop side).
I would loose speed after about 20mph. I put it down to the prop spinning too fast.
I ended up putting the sensor on the half shafts and haven't had a problem yet.
It may just have been a 1 off but it was a pita to change it as I had pretty much got the car finished.
A mate also used the studs on the front front uprights but he had the other type of sensor. It also caused Problems at iva as they couldn't do the speed test as the wheels went driven

Cheers for that, I will have a look into it

Almost two full days of wiring!

All dash wires into terminal rails



These are the ends, crimp forks soldered on



Two 13 way plugs fitted on the end of the bike loom and fly leads out the other side to the rails



Engine loom in position and getting neater

Water pump removed, need to block the hole in the block, I'm going to run an electric water pump



And that's it, doesn't look a lot, got a few more plugs to fit and get my switches mounted then I will be linking the rails together, I might get rid of the rails when it's all wiried but I will see, I did it this way as its all laid out and I'm hoping it will be easy to keep track of

Look great as always? Why the electric pump?

I'm sure Rosco will have an answer to that, but as the company I used to work for sells this kind of equipment, I think I can give an an answer too :p

With an electric water pump, like the EWP's from Davies Craig, if it is connected to an electronic controller, the water circulation in the cooling system does not depend on the engine rev, as it does with a mechanic pump. And the cooling needs of an engine are not always propositional to its rev (overheating when the engine is idling in traffic jams for example, or too much cooling at high speed, when not necessary)

The electronic controller is normally connected to both the electric water pump and the electric cooling fan. It detects the water temperature, and adapt the speed of the pump (and the fan when needed) to maintain the optimum temperature in the cooling system, independently from the engine's rev, providing the engine with a very constant temperature. The electronic controller can be set to the optimum working temperature of the engine.

The second advantage of an electric water pump is that it does not take mechanic power from the engine (as a mechanic pump does), so a few hp can be gained.

Hope this answer your question :)

cheers for that Sylvain, yeah that's it really, but im not going to be running a controller to start with as i do have a budget to keep to :D

the main reason is heat soak once the engine is turned off, with an electric pump i will be able to keep the pump and fan running once the engine has switched off

You're right, that is another good reason for using an electric water pump!

I need the same continuation of circulation after powering down for my PC...

Is there no diy controller out there that could be made to manage the pump?