Right,,, tiny bit of duff info there.... That plug we talked about ages ago for the coil. That's IS needed and is the supply to the coil pack, there must be a matching socket.

TT

there are 3 multi-plugs behind the battery 4pin, 6pin , 8 pin. These connect the body loom to the engine loom.

Inertia switch is another name for fuel cutoff

TT

Ok there's tons of plugs around that area with varios "branches" going all over the place it seems so I guess you're on about that as I didn't touch anything like that when I stripped it. It was only plugs that went into components so to speak that I disconnected to get the engine out, and then disconnected stuff on the bodywork so speak like lights to then be able to pull the loom out in one piece.

If you're refering to this I found the connection for it, it was next to the headlights:

That's the one, For some reason ford put the ignition feed to the coil on the Body loom ( which includes the front lighting loom ) and not on the engine loom.

So one part of the connection you will find on the engine loom, and the other on the body loom. If that's the engine loom then you can just connect it to +12V while testing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wmQZOEwR-4

1 wire to the coil feed.
1 wire to the black on the multiplugs.
1 to the starter wire.
(plus engine loom connected to battery)

TT

can't watch utube at work, will see if it plays on my phone at lunch ;) Have you got a picture of the multiplugs you're on about or is it clearly visible in the video?

Will take a picture for you later.

TT

This is sort of what they look like in their "Sierra" location.



Although this is on for a slightly (HAHAHAHAH) modified installation..

But these three plugs should be on your engine loom.

TT

OK, I've definitely got a cluster of plugs that look like that very close to the battery connections. I didn't get a chance to work on the car really tonight so I'll have to try some of these things tomorrow night all going well. 1st thing to try is still take out fuses 20,21,22 and check black/yellow to see if one of the fuses has gone? Then take the starter off for testing?

The fuse won't have gone, We are looking for 12V coming back the wrong way indicating a short or miss connected wire. That wire should only feed via those fuses so with them removed we should hopefuly see 0v at the switch and then be able to work through the circuits...

TT

Ok so got in the garage tonight and worked on this a bit more. I started with the fuses and took out 20,21,22 like you said and tried the voltage test again. I'm still getting 12v coming thru though with the fuses out on the yellow/black wire at the ignition :(

Here's a picture of the fuse box, I took out the 3 at the top left:



So I took a picture of the alternator connections just incase they're wrong..