1 piece floor vs 2 piece floor
I posted over on Locostbuilders just to see what kind of advice I would get as to the process to follow when riveting/bonding an alu floor panel onto my chassis. (whether to rivet in a certain pattern/etc)...
Interestingly I got feedback from some respondents to say - don't use a 1 piece floor panel: "Having the tunnel panelled just means it fills with cr@p from the road and there's reduced route for engine heat to exit. Keep it simple and lighter, and just panel in each person's half. " "I wouldnt worry about the tunnel either i had a Tiger with propshaft and i wouldnt have wanted the floor in the way for if i needed to check/work on it." "My advice to this chappie (as another has said) is the *keep a separate tunnel floor section*. This can then be removed for prop inspections, etc., as well as getting the rubbish out. " What do actual Haynes builders have to say about this though? |
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I went with two separate pieces. Some material/weight economy, more straightforward to cut out, easier access to the prop and diff, less crud gathering in the car. The only downside is slightly lower chassis rigidity.
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I've gone for one big panel, but am planning to panel the bottom of the engine bay and diff cage also.
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My view on the subject is that surely a 1 piece floor adds more strength to the structure, weight wise, it's a small cut out really, we are talking a few kilos extra on a 100bhp + car, it's nothing. As long as you can access the diff to drop the bolts on the driveshaft, and slide the prop out, no problem !:D
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Unless you are building a race car where 10ths of a sec count two piece will save you hassle,make a splitter panel to cover the rear diff/boot area.
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Good to hear the thoughts. I'm going to stick to my guns for now - and go with 1 piece floor - and a removable tunnel top (fitted with rivnuts).
However - I am aware I may come to regret this decision - so will work on the basis that I can easily drill a couple of holes and use the jigsaw to take out the 'centre' section of the 1 piece panel if I decide to do so in the future... |
At the end of the day it's your build, build it the way you want it
Arfon |
Used steel sheet too, 120 kg at last medical :eek:
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I did single piece in mild steel stitch welded. Its a bit more weight, but I really didn't like the idea of something tearing through the alum. floor and running me through.
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Turn the edge up on the panel at a suitable point in the tunnel area and this might stop some of the crud getting up there.
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would 1.2mm galvanised sheet steel be suitable for the flooring , with regard to strength and weight ?
would it be useful for the firewall etc also ? as there is enough being thrown away at work to do everything i need to add to the info , its a BMW build car BB |
Sounds about right, especially since it's free!
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Just dont try and weld it in !!!!
You can always put bars across the floor to support the seats. |
thanks guys
i was going to rivet the floor , as i have lots of rivets and an air riveter , thanks for the advice on the floor brace for the seat mounts, i have sourced some material for that as well , its some 100mmx25mm open box section , this will allow several fixing holes for the seat runners for fine adjustment if needed BB |
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Not sure what 'open box section' is - but I have gone with 25mm x 3mm strips on which to mount the seat runners. Avoids putting any more height than is necessary into the seat base - plus means you don't need to put crush tubes in - which you would with box section. |
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