Chassis paint
 

Popped to an auto paint supplier on the way home from work to get some POR-15 Chassis paint but he didn't have any only Tetrasyl Chassis Paint... anyone ever used it? If so how did you get on?

I thought it wasn't a bad deal at £38 for 5 litres :confused:

Rapid

At that price it sounds like its what we call chassis black, if it is pass up on it because its a bit soft and takes an age to fully harden. You just cant beat 2k imho.

Bob

chassis black is what i used it is ment to stay slightly soft thats how it doesen chip! its a paint that is designed to be used on chassis's and underframe parts getting batterd by grit and dirt

i gave a ring to my old paint supplier to see if i could get whats best for the job and was pointed to hum drum chassis black and the bloke giggled and said i could have some free if i paid for postage of a 45gal drum ! tuned out cheaper to buy a 5l tin :( still have half left

POR 15 is good and goes a long way,I used the six can kit and it stands outside all day for the past 18 months or so and no rust under the primer coat.

hmm... I bought a tin so I'll give it a go, one of the guys in work used it on his landy about 12M ago and he thrashes it greenlaning and swears by the stuff...

Well I guess this is what building a car is all about trying new stuff and giving it a go.... (that's just me trying to convince myself it will work :p )

I'll paint some on this week and report back my findings.

I'm expecting a 1-2 week cure so don't hold your breath for results straight away but I'll let you know

Rapid :o

On a +ve note... got my fuel tank fabricated this week ... custom designed fabbed in 3mm aluminium (that's all the bloke could get his hands on) for material and labour (with swirl pot a s well) £70.

Can't complain, the guy did a great job and picking it up Monday :D

I think that's a nice little deal

Best of luck. A 1ltr tin of 2k and an air brush spray gun would come to less than the big tin of chassis black. You would also get to put your car together this year:rolleyes: Dont get me wrong we use the stuff on truck chassis`s but thats the sort of place it belongs,its not the sort of thing I would put on a roadster chassis as it will be a major ball ache to stip it off .

Bob

2k has isocyanate in so what about the cost of all the protective gear like air fed masks
its not stuff to be messing around with dont get it on skin or breath it! ok if you use it all the time know what you are doing and have all the gear but not realy idel for home use.
i just dont like hearing the gone to hosptal tales with people who dont know what thay are doing

my chassis black dried in a day and fully hard in a few days in winter with no extra heat. your not mixxing it up with underseal or shultz are you?

While on the subject, then, what sort of protective gear do you need if you were to use the chassis black (number p140 from frost.co.uk,) either thinned down and sprayed or brushed on?

Thanks, Ash

Only PPE I'm using is gloves, disposable mask and safety glasses, not mixing it with anything just applying to the chassis straight from the tin with a brush.

One of the guys in work used the same stuff on his MG 2 weeks ago and applied it to bare metal (with no primer) and the stuff has gone off solid in 48 hrs...

I'll give it a go on a small area first to see how it goes, I'll give it a week, if it doesn't cure then I'll rethink my plans

I would adopt the option Robo has suggested but I don't have the real estate or equipment to do 2 PK spray so I'm comprising with chassis paint

rule of thumb is if it has isocynate in you need to use an air fed mask as it is realy hard to filter out and its realy nasty stuff.
pritty much all 2k paints and thinners have it in (2k= 2 pack polyurathane not epoxys)

i use a proper 3m mask for spraying like this https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/im...xbE_4wqBn1msKg
but you should check the COSHH sheet for your product to be on the safe side
if your brushing there is no airbourne paint so its just the vapour you need to worry about.

Anyone has powdercoated the chassis? Would you recommend this method instead of traditional painting?

I was thinking of powder coat, I think it holds water if you get a nick in it!

Thmoment you nick or crack powdercoat your problems start, it'll rust and lift the coating quickly and there is no repair available.
A good standard of painting is prefered and easily repaired.
Hammerite can work well bet its less easy to overpaint later.
I would prepair the bare metal properly then red oxide, high build filler undercoat with plenty of rubbing down then several top coats in the colour of your choice

My plan has been to use red oxide primer, but was told in a previous thread that its better to use a proper etch primer as it's far less prone to lifting. (Apparently red-oxide is mainly aimed at industial structures rather than car chassis'!)

Well the front end of the car had a lick of black Tetrasyl chassis paint, stuck it on a few days ago and it's gone off rock solid.

Must admit the finish would have been much nicer if using an air gun rather than brush but didn't have the gear or £'s to buy it so brush it was.... I'm pleased with the results and would recommend the stuff... but just don't be expecting concourse results with a brush (unless it's my workmanship that's crap.... strong possibility :D ) just make sure you use pure bristle brush not synthetic

Well I'm going to finish off the rest of the car with it.

It's a low cost solution but I'm sure 2PK sprayed on is much better.... just need to condsider the cost aspect for something which is primarily going to be sitting behind bodywork :confused:

I'll stick a picture up tomorrow so you see the result

Rapid

I am not trying to put you off hand painting but a small airbrush type spraygun like these on ebay cost less than a packet of decent paint brushes. The spec on this one is that it has a 50mm spray pattern which seems perfect. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spray-Gun-...item46072cc0a9 If you dont have a compressor get a big old lorry tyre , they pump up to 120 psi and used to serve me well in my youth for spraying all the old motorbike frames and tanks, they hold enough air to get round something like a chassis. Just cobble up an air line of the valve and away you go. Kev used an air brush on his chassis.

Bob

fair play that does look great... maybe I'll ask around in work to see if someone's got a compressor I can snag for the weekend

Try a foam mini roller you don't get streaks and you get a more even but you need to cut in all the fiddley bits first with a bush

I used a foam roller. Knackered about 4 of them until I primed and painted the whole chassis. They do give a nice orange peel texture, but that depends on the paint, I guess.

I thought all big kitcar namufacturers (Caterham, Westfield, etc) used to powdercoat their chassis??

In order of whats best and budget permitting imho.

1. powder coating, the stuff is the bollocks and have never seen a problem with it.
2. has to be 2k, tough as old boots and easy to apply.
3. hammerite, can look a bit messy if hand painted and splinters off easily.
4. red oxide with chassis black as a top coat. ok if you let it cure but its like polyurethane paint and you can get it off with a steam cleaner.
5. the good old airarsehole, all nice and shiny for a short while but its got no bollocks.

There has been talk of chip resistance but nobody has mentioned the rubberised underseal. You could always give the underside a splash of that , it would also deaden some of the buzzing from the tin work.

Bob