omega what parts did u use?
 

hi all

my first post so be gentle, I have pm'd a couple of lads I know using the omega. just wondering if anyone else has gone down this route and what parts u used from the omega.

I want to use gearbox, prop and diff. as want the 2.3 saab lump. but to keep costs down what else can the omega offer? hubs? steering? suspension? driveshafts?

I don't want to get whole car if all I am using is the gearbox, prop and diff?

who has used this?

what were your build issue's?

what if u could start again would u change.

thanks all

nick

The accepted wisdom on this forum has been to use as much Sierra parts as possible, Sierra hubs even if you want some exotic engine (or Mazda MX-5). But if you feel confident enough that you'll find your way around, you can try building a GM-based roadster. Never done on this forum, AFAIK.

That said, AshG used a SAAB turbo lump to replace the small Pinto after one year of riding, he might give you some pointers.

Hi,

Good to see another person trying to squeeze a Saab lump in.

Accepted wisdom regarding omega boxes is that you add a 0 to the number on the box and you have the limit in Nm. I.e. R28 can safely take 280Nm. They did do an R35, but only on the rare 3.2 v6 manual. Now a Saab 2.3 Aero from a 9000 puts out 350 before you play with it, so you'll need to map the ecu very conservatively, not least because in something as light as a roadster you'll just be lighting the tyres all the time.

As a result I've got an e36 328 gearbox with a saab bell housing welded on. It cost someone else a lot of money, but it's supposed to be indestructible...

You can get custom bell housings to fit a gm euro block pattern engine like the saab to either a Ford t9 or t5 gearbox with a cable clutch. They are supposed to be much stronger than the gm boxes.

I'm nearly ready to start mocking up my engine mountings, so when I'm done I can send you on some dimensions if you want. I am going down the dry sump route though as the saab engines have an oil starvation issue when used RWD, so I might be too low for you.

It's probably a long way off, but I can help with the ecu mapping too.

I guess using Sierra bits as much as possible means you can use the Book designs for the wishbones etc, same argument for using MX5 bits - and the designs people have come up with for Mazda based builds.

If you start using other donors you'll presumably need to compensate for different suspension geometry and change the designs, which would be well beyond me, although perhaps you are happy to do so?

Sounds like using a custom bell housing to allow the use of a Ford box would be an easy way to get the engine you want - and allow you to follow the Book design faithfully - but as you say all you then want is the Omega engine...

Whereabouts are you? I've got a Sierra with the engine and box removed if you are thinking of getting hold of some Ford running gear for your build...?

hi all

thanks for the updates. I am worried that the ford box will break without spending a grand on it. I am hoping that the r28 gearbox will handle the saab lump because its soooo much lighter that the omega bus.

looks like I just need gearbox diff and prop from the omega. and try to find a cheap seirra. I am in gedney. so north cambs/ south lincs. and will need everything other than the engine and gearbox.

as for engine mapping it will have to be restricted in first and second for sure and r888's on the back :0).

email sent to handy andy for a price of pre cut kit. build table to be collected at the weekend.

now for some welding practice

or to keep it really simple keep my eyes pealed over next year for a race spec ford box there's lots around. means I can crack on with the build knowing that ill need a decent box. save hassle of hydraulic cluth as well.

money ill save on buying an omega will go halfway towards the parts to rebuild a t9. at least I can pick my ratio's if I build one myself.

I am not brave enough to go where noone has been before. suspension geometry is not my specialist subject I am afraid.

thanks again

Having gone down the route of trying to fit in a BMW 750 rear diff and giving up on drive shaft lengths and off-set input flanges wanting to occupy the same space as my left kidney...

I've gone down the Ford diff route, simply because the chassis is designed for it already.

This way I just have to modify the prop-shaft to meld the BMW and Ford shafts, rather than two driveshafts. And i'd have to shorten the ford shaft for a standard build anyway.

The advantage of the Ford diff is the abundance of cheap LSDs from the cosworths. For the omega diff you'd need to get one from quaife. £££

Plus the quaife one will be an ATB diff which won't be much use once both wheels are spinning. I believe the Ford Cosworth diff is a proper plated diff which will keep the rear axle locked even after you've broken traction.

thanks for that. I think I will go down the ford route. no learning all that is ford geearbox. t9, t5? mt75. but again think the stronger gearboxes are bigger and need chassis mods.

if it was my second build I would not be phased but first one. prob should follow the book as best I can

n

That's been my plan.

Next build will have an aluminium chassis with wider transmission tunnel to take the bmw diff, and wider rear and front track to compensate. And integral roll cage designed in from the start, and possibly fuel tank relocated within the wheel base.

:D

the only type 9 that will take big power will be a quaif one. you won't see change from a few grand.

MT75 will last ok but it's a fixed belhousing unless you find or buy one of the special non integral boxes.

T5 is more than man enough , and there is more than likly a belhousing out there.

TT

t5 research in progress. thanks for the info!! did not realise the mt75 was fixed bellhousi coukd have been an expensive error. does the t5 have a removable bell housing? or can u get longer shafts made to accommodate a plate with the different patterns on? or is t5 the same as the t9 regarding bellhousings?

anyone want to give me a cossie???...... anyone........ <tumble weed>

nick

T5 is one of the few boxes that ford UK bought in rather than manufacturing.

The T5 comes in a number of guises and is probably one of the best supported boxes in performance circles worldwide. Borgwarner sold it of to tremec. t56 is the 6 speed version.

TT

do u know what other vehicles it came in? or is it just ford? and if I use the t5 box which I see arent too expensive and find the cossie diff. is the prop and drive shafts the same throughout the sierra range? looking at flea bay, seems that anything with cosworth cost ten times more. is this because its all uprated? or just the name.

now need to work out if uprating a standard diff with lsd will be cheaper/stronger than a stardard cossie diff which I think already has the lsd built in.

thanks for your help. early stages. but want to have a plan of what I building and before I start tacking metal together.

rover 75 zzt has the t56. thats where my money is on gettong a cheaper box. (dreams of a 6 speed box rated at 450nm) not even pod would break it :0)

Rover 75 is FWD, only the V8 version was RWD and they are as rare as hens teeth.

some tvr's had a t5, cozzies had them

omg. seems the usa is the place to get them. seem common as muck. will be doing further research. but you can get them for 100usd. 70 pounds!. this could fund my build. wonder how many types of t5 there is. bonus is they are loads of gm patten which will fit straight onto the saab. will feed back.

Be careful on the gm patterns, they have about 5. There is a list and description somewhere on the Internet, but the one you need is something like European pattern.

I believe someone on UK Saabs has posted up links and explanations.

if I get a uk t5 I will need new bellhousing or adapter plate at minimum. but if I could get one that fits ill be quids in. just have to harrass my friend in the usaf. as they get stuff shipped over for free. not sure if he could stretch to a gearbox though. but worth a shot. not sure on ratios though. but I guess a v8 box should be strong enough for me. just need to get the right codes. seems to be several different t5's.

any idea on the t5 in the cossie? should start 1352 - *??

found all ratios. some have short bell housings (room for an ally plate to change bolt pattern) guess I just need to get a longer input shaft. but its gotta be cheaper than the uk prices.

Just spotted your location Nick, not too far away from me.:)
My daughter and wife have a stable in Gedney (Piinstock Stables) so without knowing I probably go past where you live...:)

my wife poppy had raff (her horse) at pinstock till about a month or two ago. think she might be back soon!

so I probably know them

small world!

Poppy, that name rings a bell.
Out of curiosity does she sell/modify saddles?
Like you say small world, :D glad to see someone close is also taking the plunge...:eek: :eek:

2 1/2 years on the road with an omega r28 and 300 odd hp and still not broke it.

It's not the hp, it's the torque.


Ask any woman. ;)




Although the light-weight nature of the car will help.

johno - poppy Is the saddley person. she stuffs them. bends them and sows bits on. :)

ashg - 2.5 years thats good enough for me. did u you use the omega box prop and diff? does the r28 need any modifications to the book chassis? widening bits moving etc?

did you use the ford front/rear end? hubs etc.

seems the more I read about your car the more similarities I see in what I want.

I see you went for the 2ltr saab? was that availability over the 2.3? or are the water pipes oil pic up different between the engines?

nick

Are you going for custom leather seats and dashboard.? Cool as hell if you did :D

leather dash defo. or maybe nubuck. but seats not sure. if I get the wife involved she might actually come out with me :D