brakes
 

Took my car for a shake down run tonight (in the dark) with my mate. Everything went really well apart from the brakes kept binding on. I had to stop on 3 occasions to let the brakes cool down/release. It seems to be the rears. I had already backed off the handbrake to the point where this doesn't work so I know its not that causing the problem.

I have an inline pressure switch to activate the brake lights and when the brakes are locked on the brake lights remain on?

Has anyone got any suggestions?

Cheers

David

p.s my car has now done 10 miles!!!

Do you have a brake proportioning valve of some kind? Is the pressure switch on the rear line after this? It could be sticking and not releasing pressure back to the master cylinder.

Cheers
Stot

There is no valve in place. Just the switch.

David

If pressure is remaining in the circuit the piston in the master cannot be returning fully. So it can only be brake master related, this could be a piston sticking or the brake pedal not allowing it to return .

Bob

Hi David,
How did you adjust the master-cylinder push-rod/clevis assembly? How did you adjust the brake pedal position? Sometimes, after having adjusted the brake pedal stroke and position, there may be apply a pressure applied on the master-cylinder, even when the brake pedal is released. Not enough to lock the brakes when cold, but it makes the all system heating up, and can lead to a break locking after a while (and even a brake loss if overheating). So perhaps you should try to momentary put your brake pedal as far back at possible (completely released with no pressure on the M/C), even if it is not comfortable, but just for checking if you still have this brake locking problem in these conditions (when you are sure the pedal is not applying any pressure on the M/C when released).

You've been quicker than me! ;)

What about the pivot point of your brake pedal which would be the same as the mc piston sticking.

I will have a look at both the pivot and make sure the bar isn't too long. I did get some nice photos though in Newcastle by night!

Everyone seemed to like it

Thanks for the help

David

The other symptom is the brake gets really hard

David

Front brake hoses cause problems like you descr
ibe if they are original

Do you have a residual valve? If your master cylinder is located lower than the wheel cylinders or caliper it is recommended to have a residual valve in the line.

Al

All fixed now. The rod between the pedal and the cylinder was pushing the brakes on a little all the time. I've adjusted it and also taken it for a nice long run around the twisties! It's a bit rapid!

Glad you got it sorted, and great to see you you've finally got it on the road!
They are a bit nippy aren't they! Mine still makes me grin every time I drive it :D

Once it goes past 4000 rpm it takes off!

When I figure how to edit go pro movies I will upload some.

David

Is yours a 1.6 or 1.8 David? Making me jealous with all this fun talk!

Apparently, there's not much difference between 1.6 and 1.8. I've heard of MX-5 fans going to great pains and expence to get a 1.8. When they succeed, get disappointed with the amount of pull anyway.

There isn't really IMO (if you're comparing an early 1.6, post '94 Euro market cars are a slightly different story), the benefits of the 1.8 over the early 1.6 come with the stronger diff, better brakes and more bracing as standard.

its a 1.6 Chris. I was worried it wouldn't be powerful enough but its plenty for now!!!!