SB4 position
 

Maybe I have overlooked this in the book, but I can't work out for the life of me where SB4 is meant to go.

It is the shortish vertical piece between the bottom rail at the back and SB3, the seat back cross brace.

CP10 mounts to it.

Any help greatly appreciated

Sean

Check out fig.4.8
on page 38
Basicly they go 178 apart from the center line from BR12 to SB3
These are important to get correct, as the diff bracket bolts to them
David

How did I miss that:rolleyes:

I looked, but just didn't see it <insert lame excuse to do with welding fumes:D>.

Thank you

Sean

Have a ...Doh !...then:D

:o wait till you get to part CP24 :D :D


andy

I already know about that one:D

I wrote it in the book when the question was answered before the forum got hacked.

Shall we leave it as a surprise?

Sean

yeah ok Sean,
tho i,ll admit i must,ve read the book page for page about 4 times before i found it :o :D

andy

You guys:rolleyes: Give me another reason to re-read the book. I will find it.

I sold the CBR! It is being picked up on Wednesday, which meens I finally have a budget £360, it may be small but it should get me some steel and a saw.

Right CP24:confused:

Save yourself £100 and just buy a hacksaw, it barely takes any time to cut the steel to a good degree of accuracy. If you dont get along with the hacksaw then think about buying a saw :D

nice one, the money you have will pay for more than you think ;) that will give you your chassis no prob.

let us know if you find out where CP24 goes :D

good luck with your build & don,t forget to enjoy it :cool:

cheers
andy

I must admit. :o

I got well cobbed off constantly changing the angle on my bandsaw :rolleyes: :D

I ended up using the good ole hacksaw on my angle cuts, I found it quicker than faffing about with the angle adjustment on the bandsaw.

Buy a decent hacksaw & most importantly good quality blades. Sandvic, Bahco or the likes ;)

I find when cutting an angle with a hacksaw it will allways 'run off' which tends to infuriate me, plus the one with the most toys at the end wins!

Looking at getting the steel next Friday.

Measure out the angles on all 4 sides, carefully, using a square (and an angle guage/protractor)

Then cut though the 4 faces separately.

I find that helps when cutting angles

Sean

Scribe the cut line with a sharp scriber, cut a fraction long & then fettle to your lines with a 60 or 80 grit flap disk in the grinder. ;)

A flapdisk will whip the excess material in seconds & will leave a nicely prepared surface.:)

EDIT

Common reasons for run off/out when cutting with a hacksaw

Not having the work piece level in the vice, I use a small level to ensure that it is.

Too much force, let the blade do the cutting

Standing in the wrong position when cutting, stand in a straight line to the angle that you want to cut.

not enough tension on the blade

Poor quality hacksaw or blade

Pesonally, I find it helfull to lower the heel of the saw when cutting ERW square tube. It helps to cut downwards whilst still making forward progress.

This way you can adjust both cutting directions as you go & before you run off line

Seriously contemplating NOT getting an electric saw now. I will get the steel, make a few cuts, and see how I get on; I mean I could have £100 odd to spend on other stuff.:D

I was only going to get one after reading how people on here swore by them. Don’t know now:(

No harm in giving the hacksaw route a fair try :)

The tools you need are very minimal & they are tools that you will need for the rest of the general build ;)

Mind you, I am not dissing the bansaw that I have. Been a bloody good investment & saved me hours of work.

Brilliant for large number batches of straight or same angle cuts, just a pain when setting up for one off angles on material that only takes 30/45 seconds to cut manually :)