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Floor Riveting Order
I have been wondering in what order is the floor installed? Assuming aluminum, do you bond the floor with Sikaflex then drill the rivet holes or drill the holes then apply the Sikaflex?
If it is the latter how do you keep the Clecos from getting stuck or at least covered in PU adhesive? |
Hi Tim,
the way i did my ali floor was to clamp the ali to the chassis then drilled all the holes, removed the ali then put the sticky stuff on :eek: & with the help of a mate placed the ali back onto the chassis, using some old drill bits to hold the ali in place to the correct holes position(each corner so to speak), clamped it again then rivetted it. might not be how everyone does it but it worked a treat for me:) cheers andy |
I clamped my aluminium down, drilled my holes (putting in cleco fasteners as I went). Then once it was all done, took it off, tigersealed it, then riveted it all together.
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Question about the floor,have people covered the transmissoin tunnel or left it open what is the general opinion ?
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I left mine open....:eek:
David ![]() |
Hi guys, i was thinking of riviting the floor & side panels to the BR at the same time , what did any of you do? what are the options?
thanks Samy |
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cheers andy |
I suppose covering the tranny tunnel will help keep the nice shiny propshaft a bit cleaner :eek: :p
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start at one end and work towards the other or in the middle and work out otherwise you could end up with creases in the middle, it suks, trust me
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Makes far better edge. David |
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OR Side panels on, then floor? Obviously including rivets and sticky stuff |
Floor then side panels.
I rivited the floor then put the sides on. So ended up with double rivits I should have rivited through both at the same time. David |
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I might knock the bend out and reform it anyway |
You can put the floor over the sides, provided you use plenty of selant.
I did this with rear when I boxed out the boot space david ![]() |
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but if you,ve already made the side panels why not rivnut the side panels on........ maybe only needs 2 rivnuts in the "floor area" & a couple at the front, depending if you,ve made them to mate up to the SB1,s then a couple of rivnuts into SB1, put a thin washer between the flange of the side panels to take account of the rivets in the floor.............. just my mind working overtime :o :D if it works then the side panels become removeable ;) andy |
i drilled the floor except the areas where the side pannels go on and held with clecos. i then removed the floor, applied tiger seal then fixed back in place with rivets. i used bits of wood and g clamps to clamp down the areas where the side pannels would go over later on while the tiger seal set.
once all the tiger seal had gone off i put the side pannels on then drilled through the side pannels and the floor. then riveted. little note to all. i made my side pannels prior to fitting the floor but sitll managed to get them on with a pry bar and rubber mallet. i must have done something right as the floor is still attached |
I drilled my floor by clamping it down.
I then deburred the holes on chassis and aluminium applied the sikaflex and dropped the floor on. I held it in place again by putting a few rivets here and there, corners e.t.c. I didn't pull the rivets up till I knew I had the panel alligned and could get all the rivets in. Biggest tip I read on here, was to dip each rivet in the sikaflex gun, although I found it easier to squeeze out a blob and twirl the rivet in it. I sealed my tunnel up also, after consulting Andy, cant see me needing access from below. Because my floor is in 2 pieces due to not having a van I put an aluminium strip down the join. Incidently because I'm using a bike engine I could of had the floor run under where the car gearbox would be but thought I'd save a few grams. I have also left that little piece of chassis rail infront of gearbox, no need to remove it. Sorry for essay. Chris |
On my 7k I have used welding iron panel ( same panel from the back to the front of the chassis ) but open one for mecanic.
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