Question for Mr Gibbs
 

Hi
I have a question for Chris, and anyone that wants to answer.

I have just realized the chassis plates CP10 ( diff mounting bracket, plate)should be made out of 5mm plate. I have made mine from 3mm :o

My question is this:
Do I leave them as they are or cut them out and replace with 5mm
I could double up the 3mm plate but would only be welded on one side.

I do have an extra bracket on RS6 holding the back of the diff.
So would help holding the diff in place.

Its a very good thing you mentioned that...i was making mine out of 3mm plate. Luckily they havent been finished yet :p.

nope you will need to chop it out and put a 5mm one in. there is a lot of strain going through that plate so don't even risk it.

that 2.0 is going to kick out quite a bit more power

Hi David,
sorry if its not what you want to hear but i,d agree with Ash on this one, even with your back attachment, for peace of mind change it to 5mm, you,ll always be worrying about it when driving ;) .

cheers
andy

Here's a picture of a Caterham chassis, showing what forces are at work in this area.



Kind regards

John

Double up on the 3mm and plug weld through some holes drilled in it.
Rightly or wrongly I used 25x50 box with tube through one side so as it would not collapse and my diff brackets are the folded type.

Is anyone other than Dogwood doing the rear support for the diff? I was planning to as it just seems to make sense to have a rear support in it as originally design. :confused:

I think i will be, can't cause any harm in doing so and it will give me a bit more piece of mind.

Jeff,
i was "thinking" about doing it, tho to be totally honest i,m not sure, would be nice to have other,s points of view.

i suppose there is also no reason "not" to do it, as its quite easy to do & doesn,t seem to get in the way of anything else. hmmmm

also after seeing the pic showing a westie,s diff area damage i,m now thinking "Andy just bl@@dy do it" :) can only be a help i suppose.

cheers
andy

Hmmm... it makes sense the more I think of it; it's one less twisting force on the diff so I think I'm going to do it :D

hmmmm i think i,ll be making up a bracket tomorrow then :D

cheers
andy:D

The main function of the rear diff mount on the Sierra is to provide the third, rear, attachment point to the subframe. It is has a generously moving rubber bushing, so I doubt you would transfer much torque through there.

Incidentally, I've been browsing the Caterham assembly instructions today, they have this mount point chopped off altogether on Sierra diffs.

Thank's for all the replies to my OP.
I think I knew the answer all along.
I guess I was just hoping someone would dissuade me from the obvious :rolleyes:

As for the rear bracket.
When I first put it together, it just seemed the right thing to do.
I put on the Sierra rear bracket, and it fell right into place of RS6.
So I bolted up a plate to the diff bracket, and welded it in place.

That's a very good idea with the 3rd bracket for the diff David, it now looks much more secure and is fitted the way it was designed. We're also (some of us ;) ) putting more power / torque through the mountings than they were designed for.

I'm about to upgrade to an LSD and will be adding the 3rd support during the upgrade..

AndyH

See, I do have some good ideas......:rolleyes:


It's a shame they get lost in all the rubbish ideas I have :o

As I'm fitting a 2.9 Cosworth with ITBs and Emerald management along with a LSD Granada diff I've fitted the rear mount too. Mine is a bit different to all yours 'cos its a Locust rebuild but it seemed to make sense with the potential of around 200 ft/lbs of torque from the engine. By the time this gets to the diff it could be significantly more in the lower gears so the stronger its mounted the better in my book. Admittedly as the diff is solid mounted and this mounting has a big flexible rubber bit in it I doubt if it will make a huge difference but if one or more of the other mounting points breaks away it might just prevent total carnage at the rear.

D.

Chassis plates CP10's now replaced with 5mm ones.
Wasn't as bad to cut out the old ones as I thought.:rolleyes:

NOW I can start painting...........I hope.
Sick to death of bl***y welding.