![]() |
whats this worth ??
my plans are to build a zx9r haynes roadster, would this be any good (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Zawasaki-ZX9R-...em3a584 998ba) and what else would be needed to get it to fire up.
whats it worth ? if the link dont work its iten number 250589321402 |
I reckon around £750. To fire it up? I think everything is there. ECU, loom, carbs, sensors.
|
i spoke to the bloak and hes after £500 bargain then
|
Good engine for a good price Layot.....;)
Well Done....AndyH |
just bought the engine for £450 in the end, so pretty pleased. got to pick it up satday.
|
Looks like its all there to run the engine.There are some other links elsewhere in the forum with tips etc on running the engine in a car and few other little bits you need to do.
|
am i right in thinking that the engine will need dyno jettingg? and baffle sump? is there n e think else i will have to do
cheers |
Well done Layot, good engine for a good price........;)
The engine should be ready to run as it is, no need for further expense. The sump is designed to be run at the angle of the engine in the bike, about 20deg off vertical if i recall correct, also designed for extreme angles and wheelying so will be okay as it is. Good build. Look forward to picks....AndyH |
Looks Like HandyAndy has some serious competition for jammy person of the year award:D Nice result, that, well done that man!
|
so no need for sump baffle or dyno jetting? thats a bonus save on the pennies :) lol
|
Hi I got my 1999 zx9r engine for £400 with ecu, carbs, headers e.t.c. Just need the fuel pump and dials. Thinks its done 16000 miles can't remember now. Not sure if it runs yet as I haven't got that far and haven't wanted to go outside recently with all the snow.
Don't mind doing a rebuild of sorts for that kind of money though, probably needs some TLC. They seem to sell for good prices compared to a fireblade or R1, and are pretty high revving and powerful. Ozzy has given me lots of tips for fitting the zx9r. I managed to grab a milled baffle plate for £12 from ebay unused although I'm not sure how neccessary it is, unless your racing. The only inconvenience is I think I'm going to have to chop the alluminium sump down because there is an area that hangs down below the rest of the sump that must be for a bit of extra oil capacity. Looks like it will seek out the speed bumps left as it is. Chris |
Another thought.
Push or pull on the gear lever to change up or down. Whats the general preference with a BEC? I thought pull back to change up? Cheers Chris |
Pull to change up is the way to go, but some systems mirror themselves either side of the steering wheel so you can pull right to go up and pull left to go down. Tis what I'll be doing next time.......:)
AndyH |
Pull to change up is the instinctual way I thought about doing it. However I looked at someones photo of their bell crank arrangement and they looked like they were pushing to change up.
Cheers Spud. |
pull up...
TT |
I,m not sure of how the linkage is made in BEC, but its easy to change the direction of pull/push for changing up or down the gears on a bike engine,
Just use an adjustable tie rod with some rose joints to alter the position of the clamp on the gearbox output shaft on the bike engine, In bike racing, its quite common to have the gear selection "down for going up the box", this gives more ground clearance when racing a bike as the foot is not UNDER the gear lever, known as "Race setup", most bikes for the road are set up as 1 down , 5 up. Sorry to waffle on, but its very easy to change to a personal preference, so try both ;) :) cheers andy |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:48 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.