help best way to check chassis aligment?
 

if you have read my other post you may know i suspect the chassis i have just borght of ebay has been made incorectly but cant be sure where the prevous builder went wrong :confused:

i think im getting about 3-4mm out of parellel on the bottom tube of the frount frame :mad:

makes me think if this is wrong the whole front suspension will be on the wonk not to mention what other mistakes have been made :(

i was thinking of building a build table and marking it out to see if i can see where it went tits unless someone has a better idea

i can see some mods have been made to the trans tunnel it looks off set to the passingers side to take a bike engine that will need unmoding

im also finding the short pice of box attched to the chassis plate that takes the top of the shock has been missed out

dam i should have bided on that talon s/h one!

handyandy if your reading this im going to need som odd tubes and cp's if i make a list you rekon you could come up with the goods? :cool:

Hi Baz.
If it were me personaly, I would want to know it was as near perfect as i could make it. However, you may want to consider taking off the suspension brackets, making your own jigs, and placing them on the chassis in the correct position? First thing I would do now, is have a measure up, and see if your suspension mounts are in the correct places.
Jas

Hi Baz,

No problem, get your list together & get in touch, happy to help .

Just a thought.....are you going to Stoneleigh kit car show? could bring the parts to the show for you.

As for checking the chassis...........before checking the suspension brackets you need to ensure the diagonal measurements are correct, if they are then other faults can be sorted ;)
If it needs a new front frame then thats easy to sort for you.

It sounds like the chassis was fully welded incorrectly ( need to clamp it down & alternate the welding process from side to side/front to back etc), if its been fully welded all along one side at a time then heat distortion will cause the chassis to "lift", again.....depending on where this has occurred it can be sorted.

another check to do is the height of the chassis, should be as per book spec & be even all around at same points on either side etc...........then check the suspension brackets .

hope you get it sorted.

cheers
andy

lucky the suspension brackets have not been fitted yet

im mesuring +2mm both sides from br12 to br10 but parellel
br5,6,11,12 are parellel and square

and +8 one end of ff1 and +11 the other from br10 im thinking br1+2 are cut incorect instead of cut to fit

this is a bit worrying as the front suspension mounts fit off the frount frame and could have some pritty funky frount axel offset!
any i wasnt planing on building an indycar :o

no looks like we have visiters that weekend and its my birthday as well :rolleyes:

its looking a bit tricky to take in all the mesurement at once im still thinking on building a template to sit the chassis base on marked out

what does all the chassis pros (andy/talon etc) think do i need to worry about an extra 2mm from br12 to br10? im thinking as long as its straight and true 2mm longer in the wheel base is F all

i cant work out if the prevous builder knew he went wrong at the start why did he carry on with all the other stuff? i could almost see it by eye

if it were me i would be already starting the ball rolling to get my money back.

if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for the chassis?

Hi Baz,

the extra 2mm between BR10 & BR12 is not a major worry, as you will still be attaching the rear suspension brackets with the book spec measurements anyway.
I,d be more concerned of what you have said about the front frame measurements, tho i,m not sure exactly sure how you mean in your description.
Is it possible to remove the front frame totally & remake it? are the BR1 & BR2 rails correctly positioned & also TR1 & TR2 ? if they are then maybe the original builder has just got the front frame built wrong ( its a tricky blighter :D ) but causes major issues if its wrong.

I could send you a build table template to help check the bottom rail positions?

cheers
andy

just come in for a brew. mr tape mesure is saying the two tubes that run inline frount to back (would be bottom of engine bay ) are not in parrellel and pritty much eveything forward from the bulkhead is out of parellel both ways :mad:

on the upside the back end looks ok but i havent gone to mad with the tape yet

ash here is the linky to the item http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
it cost 380 in the end top it off i have just seen talon drop the price to 360 but i did get loads of extras chucked in

i did ask the seller if any mistakes had been made when the chassis had been built only to be told it had changes made to the trans tunnel due to design for a bike engine

looking at it prob the best idea i have had so far is chop off eveything forward from the bulkhead and rebuild the hole frount end
to be honnest im pritty p1ssed off

heres a lesson for all thoes who are looking for things on ebay
buy only from andy and talon!

i think what i need is a second pair of eyes who has at least built a chassis of some kind

please bear in mind people the seller is a member of this site and can read anything posted here

template would be good andy as im starting to lose hair :mad:

pm me what it costs and i can send my address thank you :)

no prob, i,ll pm you the details .
happy to help.
cheers
andy

Pm sent, sorry for delay, got caught up in something :o :D

cheers
andy

its true what everyone says andy is a top man!

watch this go to his head people:D

:o :o I,m speechless ..........................

makes a change :eek: :D

made myself a build board and painted white to show up the fine pen line i then marked out to the book spec on p34.
and as i thort almost evey tube is not where it should be :mad:
its out at the back and gets worse as you go to the front
ff1 turns out to be 9mm to far forward and offset to the offside and also not quiet the right length
br7 is 25mm to far forward and u1&2 ar fitted in the wrong place because of it
br1&2 are too long and im pritty sure thay ar not fitted at the same angle to br10 where the off set to ff1 is coming from br 10 is offset a bit off of center to
br8&9 are not inline withe the centerline
the bulkhead uprights are not fitted at 90deg to the br tubes but thats no biggy compared to the above.

the only thing for it is to start from scratch

anyone a wizz with ebay and paypal im thinking maybe it was a good move paying by credit card

ps. the seller is saying he is unaware there is anything wrong with the chassis

now that you have more detailed info to what is incorrect on the chassis.....
You say the back end is out, is that just the 2mm extra length between BR10 to BR12 ?
Are the angles of the the seat back frame ( SB1 etc ) correct?

If so then you might be able to "save " the chassis by removing everything forward of BR10, maybe even re using some of the cut out tubing, & maybe having a new front frame, now that you have the build table all marked out you can then correct everything to book spec.

cheers
andy

The only problem i can see with getting your money back is that it doesn't say in the ad that its built to book spec so that is a bit of a hurdle.As the seller has a 100% rating i would try to negotiate getting your money back and mention you will leave negative feedback and list his ebay id on the forum.Another thought is if poss to take a pic of the chassis on your build table and send him the pic as confirmation as he may genuinely believe he built it correctly.:eek:

looking at it i would need to cut off everything in front of sb1 etc, the cp's for the shock/roll bar mounts need to come off, the rear panel has been made of box and has square corners, this would only leave the seat back and rs section that i can't be sure is any good without cuting and more mesurements.
to be honest my trust in anything made as it should is just not in me any more.
its more of a case of fresh start
the last thing i need is finding more probs later down the line.

theres nothing like the old sayings mesure twice cut once, check and doubble check then check it again to be sure, jig it clamp it keep it there and only tack it then weld it at the end when your doubble sure

thoes of us only know what happens if we dont

you only have to heat a bit of tube and watch it bend with the expansion :)

I,ve just been looking at the photo on the ebay link you have given earlier in this thread, I noticed that there appears to be a "Kneeling mat" under the front of the chassis, even tho the rest of the chassis is sat on a wooden board.:confused:
Have you tried getting an Ebay dispute case started? as the chassis obviously isn,t correct?

Did you receive the build table template i sent you?

cheers
andy

not yet
yes its a bit bowed we could say

yep its all in the prosess should we say

just when you think every thing is all going wrong around you in life and car builds:( some kind sole holds out thair hand and gives you a lift. :)
thank you so much handyandy for your kind offer of a flatpack chassis at a price one would hardly buy the uncut steel for :p i dont know exactly what i have done to deserve such a kind helping hand. not to mention the advice and positive ideas and feedback.
i was at the stage of finishing before i had started my build.
i just hope i could repay you in one way or another some day andy you are a realy kit car star *

if theres anything i can do to repay you andy just ask.
well almost anything:rolleyes:

No prob Baz, happy to help in your "hour of need" :)

The best way for you to repay the gesture.......take me for a spin in your finished Roadster please ;) :cool:

cheers
andy