Bike Carbs
 

I'm trying to fit some ZX6 F3 Carbs to a 1.8CVH, I have made the plate to bolt to the block but am unsure as how to proceed from here I was going to make angled spacers approx 30 degrees so the carbs floats sit level but still connect via the original manifold rubbers but this involves splitting then respacing the carbs this look like a lot of work. Has anyone got any pictures of other methods i.e welding tubes in at an agle and connecting with silicon hose's ?

Bike carbs
 

There is a very good and comprehensive article on fitting bike carbs in the NOV 2010 issue of CLASSIC FORD magazine. Try to get hold of a copy its brilliant:)
They(Bogg Brothers in Chester) advise avoiding splitting them due to the linkage problems
Bolt the manifold flange to a jig to avoid distortion and angle the tubes to the carbs using the shortest piece of silicone hose you can for stability.

Gus is currently making a manifold to use the same carbs as you on a 2 ltr black top zetec. I have also done a similar setup on a cvh using the original bike carb rubber mountings, and without respacing the carbs.

Basically we have got a plate to suit the head, and a plate to suit the carbs. Pipes then run between the two plates with them welded & internally ground as needed to match the ports.







Hope the above helps

Brilliant this is realy helpful think I will try someting simular to you as it will save splittiing the carbs which none seems to recommend one final thing any ideas where I can get a manual for these carbs or just an explanation of what all the hoses do and if they are even needed, I read somewhere one of the feeds is for coolant I wouldn't think I need this one

Having seen the carbs Gus is using I wouldn't say any of them were for coolant, but I may be wrong. What ignition system are you planning on using?

Was going to try just the edis from the CVH to start with then maybe megajolt what have you used ? Do you know what sensors I need to retain from the donor I was thinking Air temp, Manifold Temp and Vacuum

how did you work out the angles on the tubes? I have been cutting various guesses out of some scrap tube but cant seem to work out exactly waht to cut, I'm using a miter on a bandsaw

Sounds like you are using the original hybrid esc system fitted to the carb Sierra's. In which case you will need to retain all the existing sensors for it to work correctly. Water temp, air temp, map sensor.

My engine was orignally from a fuel injected Sierra. I binned all the CFI except for the EDIS module, and wired in a megajolt to control the advance.

As for the tubes I drew the manifold on the cad system at work and altered it until I was happy with it. I then produced flat patterns of the pipes on paper, cut them out and wrapped them around some tube. Simple job of cutting with a disc cutter then.

Whats the map sensor ? I had a sensor our of the air filter which I thought was air temp I also have a crank sensor which I will need.

If they do have cooling pipes connect them up, lots of people say they arent needed but they actually are quite useful

Depending on the carbs they can actually ice up in temps nowhere near freezing point in damp air due to the cooling effect of the atomising fuel

Ashtonr, I believe the Map sensor was on the Esc controller for the 1.8 cvh. So you don't need to look for one.

On the hybrid ESC system it is built into the module itself. There would have been a rubber pipe connecting it to the original manifold.

You will need to connect this to a collector tank, with a pipe then going to each individual carb pipe. Have a look on the megajolt website, there is a diagram that explains it.

http://www.autosportlabs.net/File:Ad...le_runners.png

http://www.autosportlabs.net/File:Ad...nced_tubes.png

Thanks for this it will save me hours, just need to identify the various tubes going into the carbs now

Just found a service manual for the zx6r f3 on the net. They do have water pipe connections on them. Something else for Gus to connect!!

Here is a link to it.

http://www.mediafire.com/?vy4bjmnddb64ae7

Hope it helps

The water pipes are to stop the carbies from icing up, think it was only a Kawasaki "thing". Doubt you will need to bother really as it gets bally hot under the bonnet.

My Yamaha R1 carbs look like kawa ones and I run with the water cooler with no problems.
Just think to NOT CONNECT carb tank breather, at the beginning I've connected them to fuel tank and my engine work in a very very erratic way.

On the R1 the carb are placed very vertical but in my car I'v not repect that but the engine work fine I have never any fuel cut.

Today on my car I've suppress the air box because she was too restricted and my engine was running too rich.

yep the pipe with the plasic bulge thingy is for coolent to stop carb iceing
run it off your bleed line to the header tank should be fine
if i rember it only runs coolent across the bottom of the float bowl to warm it slightly
not sure if carb iceing will be a problem on a roadster but bikes do get it in the cold as the wind chills things down in the winter.

tip if your thinking of upgrading to at injection at any point or dont wish to use an edis unit then look at going down a megasqirt route it can run the ign system and/or inj for almost any engine (handy when you want to fit somthing other than ford with a 36-1 crank trigger)

Manifold
 

Finally finished, filed the angles in the end as I ran out of tallent and metal with the compund cuts see pictures which might be helpful to anyoe else needing some ideas