Maybe a stooopid question....
 

But, i'll ask anyway...

What is the difference between Locost and Haynes Roadsters??

I'm asking because most of the body work i've seen is advertised for Locost rather than Haynes....

Is there a big difference???





Bertie.

Hi Bertie

The Roaster is longer & wider than the Ron Champion book spec Locost.

Not sure of the measurements but 4" longer & 2" wider is lurking in the back of my mind ! ( I am sure someone will come up with the exact measurements ;) )

The upshot is, the Locost body work is too narrow for the Roadster.

All I can say is be very wary of bodywork being advertised as Lowcost/Roadster as it is unlikely to be a direct fit to both !!

The biggest difference is that the Locost is live axle, based on the MK2 Escort and using the front uprights from a Cortina, where as the Roadster is based on the Sierra so it has independant suspension all round. Dimensions aren't really the difference as there are a lot of "wider" locosts out there using the McSorley plans available on the net.

Hope thats all made sense :D

TK

Hmmmm, thats a pain.....

The Haynes Roadster bodywork is a hell of alot dearer than the Locost....

Thanks for the replies gents...





Bertie.

Search body panels 27th October AGM Sports cars posted by me.

The roadster panels from all suppliers are not a much more than the locost ones in reality. Most locost ones don't include the side panels, or scuttle, or bonnet or whatever in which case your fabricating Ali panels or sourcing from different sources.

TT

Part of the problem with GRP body work is recovering the cost of delopment and the space needed to rent to do it properly,ie clean heated and down wind of any houses. You've also got to add the suppliers profit mark up so your not only paying for the materials and labour plus 20% minimum. The only way to make the body work cheap is to use as little GRP parts as possible, you can get away with just buying a nose and 4 wheel arches if you make every thing else out of tubing and sheet material. Besides if you paint or wrap every thing you will get a perfect colour match which is easily repaired by you.

Thanks again for the replies...

I have looked at a few different suppliers....

My question is how the hell do you even start to build one of these things for £250....

Some porkies told me thinks....

The search goes on...






Bertie.:confused:

The £250 was on the locost and was 10 years ago doing it all yourself. The SVA did not even exist when it first came about.

They HR was never advertised as a £250 car.

With a lot of scrounging, clever ebaying, and cutting everything to the bone, selling donor parts from a cleverly bought doner... you could maybee get something on the road for a grand including the IVA. But it's would take a lot of time, skill and luck to not build a dog.

TT

It was never my plan to build a sub-standard car....

Though i never thought I'd be spending on a kit car.....

Its to tax the brain and have something at the end of it....

Its not as if i have to spend a fortune in one go...





Bertie.

i think you missed out stealing tt :D iva would be about half your build cost :eek:

It could be done if you were a womble and lived in a skip.

Bob

Haa haa, have you seen my garage and yard???

I'm using parts i have lying about for the drivetrain....

Plus its something different from the norm...

I seem to do things the "different" (hard) way....




Bertie.

Ive built mine from mostly scrap and ive still managed to spend 2k already !

I reckon I have most of the stuff for my build which is mainly left overs from other things i have built. Cant escape the 2k needed for chassis and body and another 2k in bits and bobs.Still bloody good value if it all comes in at under 6k.

Bob

Ok, so the Haynes is a wee bit wider...

What about the back panel, is it the same??





Bertie.