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-   -   fixing a steel floor (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12655)

thailoz 12th May 2013 04:34 AM

fixing a steel floor
 
Ok I know I am ways away yet but trying to plan ahead I am going to use a steel floor

I was thinking 1 mm thick reason is mostly cost. 2mm Ali is nearly £100 a sheet here

I don't want to weld as I am worried about it looking like the ocean waves when finished ,
so I was thinking about riveting it that way I could use galvanized steel .

Would I require any special rivets ?

twinturbo 12th May 2013 08:16 AM

I just used normal rivets with my Ali floor.

But I would recommend using something like Sikaflex or Tigerseal. It would probably do the job on it's own!

TT

Talonmotorsport 12th May 2013 09:22 AM

I would not use 1mm for the floor as by the time you have stepped on the section in front of the seats a few times you will end up with a nice bowl shape. I would go with 1.6mm and make it a one piece job with a cut out for the bellhousing as it's the only thing that ties one side of the chassis to the other.
Remember to use stainless 4mm or 5mm rivets with mild steel every 50mm -75mm, if you use ali rivets they will react with the mild when they get wet, and theres no such thing as using too much stickerflex/tigerseal.
If you can stretch to it these will make short work of of it to...



twinturbo 12th May 2013 09:36 AM

I used a Lazy riviter and it was easy work.

TT

Eternal 12th May 2013 12:19 PM

I went 2mm steel floor and welded it all around in sections. It has a slight ripple but nothing too bad. Tbh i prefer to have the extra strength :D you can see how it dips in a little.


thailoz 12th May 2013 01:38 PM

Thanks guys good advise


Phil with regards to the Front frame

am I correct in saying you cut ff2 at 13 degrees then weld together once in the jig to keep the faces at 90 degrees

Talonmotorsport 12th May 2013 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thailoz (Post 90220)
Thanks guys good advise


Phil with regards to the Front frame

am I correct in saying you cut ff2 at 13 degrees then weld together once in the jig to keep the faces at 90 degrees

Yes the angles are 13' at the top of FF2 and FF3 with the outer sides 90' to the base of your jig. If you screw/weld two perfect 90' cubes to your jig then clamp FF2 + FF3 to them this will help later when you come to fit your top suspension brackets.

thailoz 12th May 2013 10:33 PM

thanks again I will give the a try

mgglep 13th May 2013 07:03 AM

You may also consider using sealed rivets as these don't let water into the box section


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