So I got it all sorted out. Wiring got a little bit much and I nearly made a possibly fatal error by wiring the B/W tacho wire to the B/W engine fuse wire, luckily I realised my error before connecting up the battery. Also mixed up the wires on my oil alarm so it went off as soon as you turned on the ignition. I'd wired it to the L/R ignition wire rather than the L/R fuel pump wire from the fuel pump relay. doh! Also my oil pressure gauge didn't work when I first turned it over. Couldn't figure out why but then I realised I'd earthed the body of the sender when I'd repositioned it. Ha! Soldered a wire to earth from the body of the sender which solved that issue.
It wouldn't start initially but it was struggling to turn over. I hooked up a 2nd battery and to my surprise it fired up about 9pm on a Saturday. Sounded terrible though due to the lack of oil in the hydraulic tappets. Turned it off a few times thinking I didn't have oil pressure but no, it was just sticking tappets. Let it warm up and then revved it a bit and it was fine.
I still had loads of wires to shorten but before I got stuck in I decided to look for error codes using the LED trick. This got quite interesting as I was getting three error codes, 11, 14, 22. Two of these didn't exist in the two digit error list which was confusing. I found someone else on the internet with the same three errors. 14 is an ecu internal barometric sensor error.
http://www.mazdamenders.net/index.ph...ult-codes.html
The dot/dash combination was -.-....--.. then a long pause. I knew that later cars had ODBII but this car had no OBDII port so assumed it was not OBDII.
Any how after a while I thought I'd look up some OBDII codes and discovered that a faulty coolant temp sensor should be P0115.
http://engine-codes.com/p0115_mazda.html
So then I pulled the rear green engine coolant sensor. I got the same previous error but also got another set of three digits
21,11,15 or --.-.-.....
so there was plenty of ones and fives in there but also these tens and a twenty. Eventually I figures out a dash - wasn't ten but was intact a separator so...
-- was two separators with no digit in the middle so that would be zero so I was actually getting -0-1-1-5 which was the correct code for the coolant temp sensor. I then looked up P1402 or -1-4-0-2 and found it was an erg issue.
http://engine-codes.com/p1402_mazda.html
I'd had the EGR device plugged into the loom to prevent any errors but it appeared removing the sensor from the alloy body had allowed the plunger to fully extend causing the error.
So 3 hours later I'd resolved the fault codes and could then carry on shortening the wires happy that all the wiring was OK.
What a palaver!
