Hi Tony
Have a look at this photo ( Not the best I know )
You should be able to see where the handbrake cable enters the drum backplate.
With an " as per book " upright, you may need to fettle a notch in the uprights lower mounting lug to allow the handbrake cable ferrule to fit into the drums backplate.
I had to cut a notch in the first set of uprights that I made.
It was also noticed that the drums slave cylinder was very close to the upper upright mounting lug, this may make it a little tricky to get the solid section of brake pipe fitted.
Just to clarify to all
This photograph is of my revised rear upright.
Reason why I changed it ?
In the first edition of the book, it was stated that the driveshafts were shortened by 10mm & that it was probably best to make the rear wishbones 10mm longer to allow the use of standard driveshafts.
This never really sat with me very well, from a fabricators view, why would you shorten a driveshaft by only 10mm, when it would have been far easier to allow for the extra length elsewhere. ?
The book shows that RU7 fits inside & flush with the end of the piece of 5" pipe ( RU5 )
Having convinced myself that this was wrong & that's where the missing 10mm went to, I then took the personal choice to fabricate the rear uprights slightly different.
Here's how I made the rear upright pictured.
I sat RU7 on top of the 5" pipe ( RU6 ), taking great care that it was level in all directions.
Tacked RU8 on top of the assembly & fully welded the whole thing up.
This allowed 10mm extra distance from drum back plate & the mounting lugs of the upright.
I gained extra clearance for both handbrake cable & solid pipe to master cylinder.
The same effect could have been achieved by simply making as per book & adding an extra RU8 to each upright.
Impotrant
If making the rear uprights the same way as I did, the length of the rear wishbones will need to be as per original book spec.
Hope all of this makes sense