Quote:
Originally Posted by robo
I would say thats a sensible mod, You are taking a lot of strain off that top adjuster.  I dont suppose moving the spring outboard like that will foul the inset of the wheel rim on the mazda set up would it?
Bob |
Hi Bob,
I'm glad you think it's a step forward. As you said in a previous post it had flaws.
I'm hoping the bolt now will be OK. I don't know if you have seen my previous post but I modified my design of the yoke and adjuster. It's now an 8.8 grade bolt with the head cut off and fine pitch threads both ends with the shank of the bolt in the body of the bush. The bolt was chamfered for welding and and a threaded collar screwed onto the threads before welding.
The bolt was welded to the yoke and then the collar was screwed upto the yoke and only welded to the yolk and not the bolt.
My thinking was that this would not put stress directly on the weld between the bolt and yoke as the collar would help transfer some of the stress further along the bolt. Also there is minimum bolt length between the yoke and the bush.
Sorry to bore you all...
I believe the clearance between the wheel rim and shock mount should be fine but as of yet I haven't checked this on the car.
Looking at this photo it should be fine..
I'm not sure but doesn't the Sierra rear top wishbone have a similar setup in reference to welding a bolt to the bush..? (books at work).
Also I'm sure I've seen a picture of a yoke welded to a bolt in the book for use on different donors.
Well thanks for the input Robo I always appreciate advice from you guys.
Johno